I moved my 5t wheel camper at my home today because I noticed the Wheel Masters level on the King pin tongue was a bubble and a half off to the left. We've had a lot of rain and the gravel drive is not completely level. Well I hooked it up and the coupler on the hitch closed. But apparently not completely because the handle that opens and closed the receiver latch is completely returning to the closed position and not matching up with the hole on the hitch to place the locking pin through it. I am very new to fivers coming from a TAG and still getting use to the hitching and unhitching. What should I do to get the locking coupler to completely close so the handle will seat properly. I hope I have explained the issue clearly. Apologies if I sound clumsy. Thanks

Could be as simple as it is gummed up, time for some spray graphite, and a little elbow grease. It maybe mechanical issue but always start with the basics first.

What type of hitch? Most of the time if the hitch does not latch it is due to the jaws not being complety engaged or in a bind.If you are connecting up, I'd reverse what you've done, pull away and start over. You may be high hitched or off side to side. When you connect, are you following the manufacturer's instructions? Most have you starting off with the jaws open and the kingpin about an inch below the platform?Jim

I suspect that the truck has rolled forward a bit when you put it in park. Make sure the truck is lightly pushing against the kingpin when putting in park. I have seen a few times where the truck would roll forward a bit each time is was put in park and required me to have the wife hold it against the kingpin while I locked the hitch. If you have clam jaws instead of a bar, you can close the jaws first and then back in. They will spring open and close without assistance.

Hard to help without knowing what brand and model of your hitch. I had that problem once with my SuperGlide wrap around jaws. Found out that the plate was a very tiny bit distorted. this did not allow the jaw to completely wrap around the pin. Thus a less secure hold on the pin. I had to remove the hitch plate and straighten the are that was deformed. Only about a .015" deformity. But those hitches are pretty close tolerances.In you case it could be a matter of high pinning, a burr somewhere, a mis-alignment, a lack of lubrication, or something else.

Knowing the brand of the hitch would help. I've used about 5 different hitches and they all work different. One basic thing to do is never high hitch. This will cause you to drop the trailer. I now have a B&W and as long as instructions are followed it will hitch perfect. Pull the handle and place pin through hole and you know it is hitched correctly. Man that installed the hitch told me he sold one to a couple and warned them not to high hitch. They did, and pulled off and down it came Most hitches are this way. I let the hitch pick up the trailer and it usually slides right in. Don't pull until you figure out the problem.

5th wheel receiver hitch latch not completly closing

shagan77
Explorer
Jun 17, 2014
no, I have no idea of why this posted twice..... sorry.
shagan77
Explorer
Jun 17, 2014
So, as you still haven't mentioned what type hitch you have this may be worthless info, but here goes.

I've a Reese Signature series hitch. The lever that has the hole in it for the pin to slide through is controlled by a tab on the inside and under the hitch clamp. When I first started hitching fivers I did what you just mentioned, raised and lowered the hitch after it was in place. This actually bent the tab completely out of the way so there was no way (other than with a long screwdriver) to get it to line up with the locking hole.

As previously mentioned, you want to insure the kingpin plate is lower than the hitch head when you start the process. (this, of course, after removing the little locking lever and straightening the bent tab) As your fiver rides up on the hitch it will be properly aligned to the tab and when the hitch closes the kingpin will have pushed the tab/locking lever into the proper location.

Sounds complicated, but looking under/through the hitch with a good flashlight will clear this all up. If your tab is bent (from raising and lowering the fiver after it is in a hitched position) there is no way for the king pin to push it into the proper locking position. And if this is not the issue, well then I've likely given all of you something to chuckle about and say, "yup, rookies"....
bpounds
Nomad
Jun 17, 2014
When I've had this problem (Reese hitch) it was because I didn't line the pin up well with the receiver head. The trailer pinbox should shift slightly to center itself, but I've learned that it sometimes doesn't and then the jaws won't completely close. It took a couple years of occasional issue before I figured this out. Best thing to do is release the handle, pull out a little, then backup and hit it again with a bit more gusto.
shagan77
Explorer
Jun 17, 2014
So, as you still haven't mentioned what type hitch you have this may be worthless info, but here goes.

I've a Reese Signature series hitch. The lever that has the hole in it for the pin to slide through is controlled by a tab on the inside and under the hitch clamp. When I first started hitching fivers I did what you just mentioned, raised and lowered the hitch after it was in place. This actually bent the tab completely out of the way so there was no way (other than with a long screwdriver) to get it to line up with the locking hole.

As previously mentioned, you want to insure the kingpin plate is lower than the hitch head when you start the process. (this, of course, after removing the little locking lever and straightening the bent tab) As your fiver rides up on the hitch it will be properly aligned to the tab and when the hitch closes the kingpin will have pushed the tab/locking lever into the proper location.

Sounds complicated, but looking under/through the hitch with a good flashlight will clear this all up. If your tab is bent (from raising and lowering the fiver after it is in a hitched position) there is no way for the king pin to push it into the proper locking position. And if this is not the issue, well then I've likely given all of you something to chuckle about and say, "yup, rookies"....
luggage
Explorer
Jun 10, 2014
Every thing appears OK. I fiddled with the handle and the raised and lowered the landing gear and suddenly "pop", the handle was completely closed and the King pin is secured. Thanks all for the input. Still don't know what the problem was but maybe one of those things where repetition seems to smooth thing out.
luggage
Explorer
Jun 09, 2014
I have a Husky 16K easy roller manual slider hitch (I have short bed F250). I just looked again at the hitch and it seems that the King pin is almost all the way in the receiver since I can place the safety pin in the lock position. However the handle still appears about an inch form being completely closed. I don't believe I used the expression High hitch??
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jun 09, 2014
Position King Pin plate 1" lower than hitch head plate so that when you back into king pin it rides up onto hitch head plate......that will prevent high hitching.

Hitch handle should pull out fairly easily completely opening jaw(s) and should snap closed if you let go of handle.......spring pulls jaw(s) closed.

Check manually the operation of handle/jaw(s) and clean/lube all pivot points.

Do NOT attempt to move/tow 5vr until jaw(s) and handle fully close.

After hitching..visually check/confirmed do a 'pull test'
Raise front landing gear 1" off ground
Then place truck in "D"......engage trailer brakes via manual lever--full on
Then slowly pull forward placing force on hitch/jaw/king pin. Properly hitched, king pin will not pull out of hitch jaw(s)
Racine96
Explorer
Jun 09, 2014
If the locking handle does not close or move to the intended place when locked. You need to start over.
0rion
Explorer
Jun 09, 2014
high hitch is where you have the 5er up to high when you back under it. The jaws then close below the king pin so the pin sits on top of the jaws. You pull forward and "boom".....welcome to the world of shopping for truck fenders. :D
WyoTraveler
Explorer
Jun 09, 2014
kennethwooster wrote:
Knowing the brand of the hitch would help. I've used about 5 different hitches and they all work different. One basic thing to do is never high hitch. This will cause you to drop the trailer. I now have a B&W and as long as instructions are followed it will hitch perfect. Pull the handle and place pin through hole and you know it is hitched correctly. Man that installed the hitch told me he sold one to a couple and warned them not to high hitch. They did, and pulled off and down it came Most hitches are this way. I let the hitch pick up the trailer and it usually slides right in. Don't pull until you figure out the problem.

I don't have a 5er anymore but always learning. Would you clarify what you mean by high hitch.