B&W Hitch - Top Bolt
Has anyone ever taken off their B&W hitch and found that you can take out the top bolt or broken it off while removing it? What would cause that to happen?
Forum Discussion
16 Replies
thomasmnile wrote:
laknox wrote:
thomasmnile wrote:
josten367 wrote:
I asked them if this happens a lot and they said "this issue sometimes happens" and they didn't tell me why this happens. Only to say "make sure that your torque wrench is calibrated correctly".
I thought it might have been from a hard shift in the trailer and the truck. When I was removing it I got the bolt halfway out of the post and then it stopped moving. Of course I had a torque wrench that was set at 100 lbs and it didn't stop me from breaking the bolt. I think that last time I put it on I torqued it down a little to much on the bolt, and definitely not 40 lbs of torque (over that).
Had a Companion hitch, never had a problem with the top bolt on the post, but the u-bolts were known for "stretching" from repeated tightening and torquing. I wonder if that's why the redesigned hitch doesn't use them. Oh, they would replace the u-bolts if necessary; hitch serial # and shipping info. was all they needed. They are a real standup company.
I'm not sure that the u-bolts stretch as much as the nylon in the nuts tears off and jams the threads up. I've had to replace mine only when taking the nuts =off=. As soon as they start to tighten up, I hit the tool box and grab my 3/4" breaker bar and just twist them right off. :-) When I get my new set, I keep the other old one as a spare. I =should= simply take the old nuts off and buy new ones to put on the old u-bolts. You could =buy= a lot of u-bolts and nuts for the cost of a new-style Companion, so I'll keep my old one, for now. :-)
Lyle
Understand what you and another post said about the nuts, but the U=bolts on my Companion actually elongated, and as I wrote, B&W replaced them at no cost. Have a TT now and sold the Companion so I have a WD/Anti-Sway hitch to play with now..........
I think I'd buy a new torque wrench as it takes a =lot= to stretch a 1/2" bolt! :-)
Lylelaknox wrote:
thomasmnile wrote:
josten367 wrote:
I asked them if this happens a lot and they said "this issue sometimes happens" and they didn't tell me why this happens. Only to say "make sure that your torque wrench is calibrated correctly".
I thought it might have been from a hard shift in the trailer and the truck. When I was removing it I got the bolt halfway out of the post and then it stopped moving. Of course I had a torque wrench that was set at 100 lbs and it didn't stop me from breaking the bolt. I think that last time I put it on I torqued it down a little to much on the bolt, and definitely not 40 lbs of torque (over that).
Had a Companion hitch, never had a problem with the top bolt on the post, but the u-bolts were known for "stretching" from repeated tightening and torquing. I wonder if that's why the redesigned hitch doesn't use them. Oh, they would replace the u-bolts if necessary; hitch serial # and shipping info. was all they needed. They are a real standup company.
I'm not sure that the u-bolts stretch as much as the nylon in the nuts tears off and jams the threads up. I've had to replace mine only when taking the nuts =off=. As soon as they start to tighten up, I hit the tool box and grab my 3/4" breaker bar and just twist them right off. :-) When I get my new set, I keep the other old one as a spare. I =should= simply take the old nuts off and buy new ones to put on the old u-bolts. You could =buy= a lot of u-bolts and nuts for the cost of a new-style Companion, so I'll keep my old one, for now. :-)
Lyle
Understand what you and another post said about the nuts, but the U=bolts on my Companion actually elongated, and as I wrote, B&W replaced them at no cost. Have a TT now and sold the Companion so I have a WD/Anti-Sway hitch to play with now..........- The top bolt draws the post up so it pinches the release pin so the pin can't be pulled out allowing the post to come up from the bed.
B&W top quality as usual! Miles Away wrote:
The TOP BOLT is not a nylock bolt.
Which is what Alley Fox was alluding to...
Lyle- The TOP BOLT is not a nylock bolt.
thomasmnile wrote:
josten367 wrote:
I asked them if this happens a lot and they said "this issue sometimes happens" and they didn't tell me why this happens. Only to say "make sure that your torque wrench is calibrated correctly".
I thought it might have been from a hard shift in the trailer and the truck. When I was removing it I got the bolt halfway out of the post and then it stopped moving. Of course I had a torque wrench that was set at 100 lbs and it didn't stop me from breaking the bolt. I think that last time I put it on I torqued it down a little to much on the bolt, and definitely not 40 lbs of torque (over that).
Had a Companion hitch, never had a problem with the top bolt on the post, but the u-bolts were known for "stretching" from repeated tightening and torquing. I wonder if that's why the redesigned hitch doesn't use them. Oh, they would replace the u-bolts if necessary; hitch serial # and shipping info. was all they needed. They are a real standup company.
I'm not sure that the u-bolts stretch as much as the nylon in the nuts tears off and jams the threads up. I've had to replace mine only when taking the nuts =off=. As soon as they start to tighten up, I hit the tool box and grab my 3/4" breaker bar and just twist them right off. :-) When I get my new set, I keep the other old one as a spare. I =should= simply take the old nuts off and buy new ones to put on the old u-bolts. You could =buy= a lot of u-bolts and nuts for the cost of a new-style Companion, so I'll keep my old one, for now. :-)
LyleAlley Fox wrote:
If the bolt broke off, there's several reasons why that could happen: 1) It was cross threaded when installed, 2) It rusted in place, 3) The bolt was replaced with one that had the wrong thread pitch or had a non-threaded shoulder that was bottomed out or 4) The bolt was torqued way too high. When I install my hitch, I always inspect the bolts. The top bolt, when torqued to the required 40 Ft/lbs, does not get drawn down to contact the post, there is always a gap between the post and the hitch frame. That bolt only serves to preload the hitch contact to the bed, the "U" bolts are what secures the hitch.
Agree with all but #4. If you over-torque it, you'll bend the hitch base crosspiece. Mine has a bit of a ripple in it from mis-reading the instructions and torquing to 80 on the draw-down instead of the u-bolt.
Lyle- ALL Nyloc nuts are really designed for a one time use!
They will "stretch", for lack of a better term. josten367 wrote:
I asked them if this happens a lot and they said "this issue sometimes happens" and they didn't tell me why this happens. Only to say "make sure that your torque wrench is calibrated correctly".
I thought it might have been from a hard shift in the trailer and the truck. When I was removing it I got the bolt halfway out of the post and then it stopped moving. Of course I had a torque wrench that was set at 100 lbs and it didn't stop me from breaking the bolt. I think that last time I put it on I torqued it down a little to much on the bolt, and definitely not 40 lbs of torque (over that).
Had a Companion hitch, never had a problem with the top bolt on the post, but the u-bolts were known for "stretching" from repeated tightening and torquing. I wonder if that's why the redesigned hitch doesn't use them. Oh, they would replace the u-bolts if necessary; hitch serial # and shipping info. was all they needed. They are a real standup company.- The hitch can shift around all it wants and that won't affect that hold-down bolt. That bolt only sets the downward pressure on the hitch to the bed before the U-bolts are tightened. IMO you actually could remove that bolt after you've tightened the U-bolts without any ill effects.
