Black tank release cable

Yes, lubricant!

I keep a can of WD-40 in basement right next to DC and spray all 2 cables often.

Assuming you guys are talking about the blast gate and steel cable, the cable itself looks to be about 15' long and coated not very accessable!

The cable should have the length stenciled on the side - e.g. 96

Cable lube'rs for motorcycles and bicycles work well. Once lubed, it will become a routine maintenance item as the lube attracts dust.

If resistance comes and goes, more a case of gaskets sticking on the guillotine valve blade or cable being bound at certain times like slide open or closed.

ndrorder wrote:
Cable lube'rs for motorcycles and bicycles work well. Once lubed, it will become a routine maintenance item as the lube attracts dust.

If resistance comes and goes, more a case of gaskets sticking on the guillotine valve blade or cable being bound at certain times like slide open or closed.

There are "dry" lubes that won't attract dust.

Lyle

Get metal pull rods and keep the valve itself lubed. Often if you do not use the black tank flush you will get TP or other stuff pushed into the valve seat by the knife blade and that may be what is causing the stiffness at times.

apparently the cable and valve is accessible as you describe it.

Why not go on amazon, get a new assy install and be done with it?

I had to replace my black valve a few years ago cuz it wouldn't close. I removed the old one and everything was completely clean but something around the stem, inside the bonnet, jammed that sucker. It opened fine but was a bear to close. Some guys put a grease zerk on the bonnet. The cable was very free but I'm guessing there's an o-ring or some sort of seal in the bonnet that wore and rolled and jammed the stem. Craig

Dave H M wrote:
apparently the cable and valve is accessible as you describe it.

Why not go on amazon, get a new assy install and be done with it?

The OP says, "It's in a really bad spot".

So far all the posts deal with lubrication of the cable.

Maybe it will help - maybe not......The cable/s sometimes have a bit of slack behind the pull knob (from repeated use), -or- the cable has developed a kink due to sloppy routing (and clamps) by the mfgr.

Often it may be MUCH simpler and easier to check the cable!!
Disconnect the cable at the valve - and see if the valve will move freely.

If it does = cable is the problem.
If it does *not* move easily....unfortunately, it's probably time to replace the valve assembly...:(

Not expensive - but it can be a real "PITA" if it's in a "bad spot".
No need to ask how I know...:W

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