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Broke Our SuperGlider

milo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Well I managed to bend the locking mechanism on our 2700 PullRite superGlider on only our 2nd tow. Went thru all the pre-checks before backing under the King pin to latch, backed up got it latched, pulled the 5er the 75 miles home and went thru the check-list to unhitch, pulled handle to open the jaws, jaws seemed to open, raised 5er to just off the hitch and pulled forward and would not come out from underneath it. Jaws looked open, but wouldn't let it slide out, so I lowered it & then raised it back up, still would not come out. I pushed on the locking lever and the round ring clip and 2 flat washers & the locking lever fell to the floor ...BROKE. After checking the locking lever saw it was bent on one side. Now I could get the jaws open but could not keep it open so I had to hold it open so DW could pull the truck out from under the pin.
Has anybody else with the 2700 15K Pullrite SuperGlder had this problem. Good thing we were at home unhitching when this happened.

A call to PullRite tomorrow is in order. Also there is a service center for PullRite locally so will also be visiting them.

Milo
Janet & Milo ...47 fantastic yrs 2gether :B
Mona Yorkie & Buddy our beloved Beagle (both in spirit)
2013 F-150 Kodiak Brown XLT 4X4 HD Ecoboost
2014 Cougar 26sab

Living under the best Government money can buy ... Bob Brinker 😉
18 REPLIES 18

Vulcaneer
Explorer
Explorer
Ductape wrote:
milo wrote:
raised 5er to just off the hitch and pulled forward


There's your problem. Should always have the truck/hitch higher than the pinbox when hooking and unhooking.


True. That likely is the problem. You should not be lifting the inbox that high. Should only lift high enough to relieve MUCH OF the "squat" from the trucks suspension. Just enough so that when you pull away from the hitch, and the trucks bed rebounds upward, it does not rise to bump into the under side of the trailers overhang.

And you should pull away SLOWLY. And let the inbox slowly and gently slide off the hitch plate ramp.

If you lift your hitch too high, the hub on the bottom of the kingpin can interfere with the bottom of the hitch plate. And it will distort or bend the plate. When that happens, the bottom of the plate will interfere (very close tolerance) with the rotation of the wrap around jaws. The result is the jaw will not wrap completely around the kingpin when hitching.

And to fix that issue, you need to remove the hitch plate and bend the hitch plate back into the correct position. Best done with a press. Because the amount you bend it is very little. And in a very small specific area of the hitch plate.

Unless of course if you find this oddity has happened at 8:30AM on a Sunday morning, when you are due to check out of the campground. Then a pretty big (at least 2 ft long handle) adjustable wrench can do the job. That is...if you can borrow one from the maintenance shack of the campground your are staying in. And then you can hold the hitch plate between a fork in a large tree.

But it is so much better to just not raise the elevators too high when unhitching.
'12 F350 SB, CC, SRW, 6.7 PSD, 3.55 RAR, 6 spd auto
2015 DRV 38RSS 'Traditions'
Pullrite Super Glide 18K

Retirement = It's all poops and giggles....UNTIL someone Giggles and Poops.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
+1 for letting it ride up and ride down. Take some weight off but no gap.

Ductape
Explorer
Explorer
milo wrote:
raised 5er to just off the hitch and pulled forward


There's your problem. Should always have the truck/hitch higher than the pinbox when hooking and unhooking.
49 States, 6 Provinces, 2 Territories...

4huskers
Explorer
Explorer
Did it two years ago in Amarillo; UPS the parts and installed them myself. RV dealer said Pullrite told him I probably "high hooked" the kingpin when we started. I now have the kingpin a little lower when hitching up than I did previously. No trouble since.