Building a better rear bumper / questions

I would go to a local steel business where you'll buy the square tube stock and ask them. Yes, .250 is way too heavy for what you want to do. I built one bumper, on purpose, out of 3/8" thick square tube and it took a forklift to raise it to be bolted on. I did what I wanted it to and it's never been dented with all of the pushing I've done with it.

While I'm sure you can find it on the internet, the steel shop can tell you how much the various thicknesses will weigh per foot. They'll probably tell you that over the phone.

Bill

Our Place wrote:
I have a 2014 Cougar that has a "slide-out" rear bumper. That thing is really flimsy and jams up so I'm going to remove it and build my own rear bumper. It will be fixed in place with no rear storage but I want a hitch built in for our bike rack. I'm going to get a new section of 4x4 box tubing but want heavier, what wall thickness should I get? I'm thinking .125 wall as .250 is going to be way overkill. Also would like to see what others have done for better rear bumpers, post pics or ideas if you got em.....

Don't know about the steel you need to use, but my suggestion (as well as many others here) is to build an entire sub-frame to bolt to the FW frame; don't just replace the rear bumper tube, =especially= if you want to add a hitch. Most builds I've seen here have been about 3-4' in length with 2-4 cross-members. Some even beefier.

Lyle

laknox wrote:

Our Place wrote:
I have a 2014 Cougar that has a "slide-out" rear bumper. That thing is really flimsy and jams up so I'm going to remove it and build my own rear bumper. It will be fixed in place with no rear storage but I want a hitch built in for our bike rack. I'm going to get a new section of 4x4 box tubing but want heavier, what wall thickness should I get? I'm thinking .125 wall as .250 is going to be way overkill. Also would like to see what others have done for better rear bumpers, post pics or ideas if you got em.....

Don't know about the steel you need to use, but my suggestion (as well as many others here) is to build an entire sub-frame to bolt to the FW frame; don't just replace the rear bumper tube, =especially= if you want to add a hitch. Most builds I've seen here have been about 3-4' in length with 2-4 cross-members. Some even beefier.

Lyle

Oh yes that's a must! I'm gong to build a complete new bumper and the structure that is going to the frame. All the original mounting stuff is for the original slider anyway and will be removed.

I used 2 x 4 tubing, 1/8 wall. I welded plates across the ends for a more finished look. I built a hitch into the structure, too. I'm in Colorado for a few days, but will post pics when I return home.

I used 3/16". This is the third one I've done. I pull a 4,500# boat with mine.

4" Sq Tubing
11ga .120 = 6.33 lb/ft
3/16 .188 = 9.31
1/4 .250 = 12.02

How much you want that bumper to weigh???

2x4 tubing 11ga .120 4.7 lb/ft

Very nice hitch transamz9, beautiful welds.

avvidclif1 wrote:
4" Sq Tubing
11ga .120 = 6.33 lb/ft
3/16 .188 = 9.31
1/4 .250 = 12.02

How much you want that bumper to weigh???

2x4 tubing 11ga .120 4.7 lb/ft

Very nice hitch transamz9, beautiful welds.

Amazing how good welds are when Lippert isn't doing them! :B

Lyle

I had mine done and it includes 3 individual receivers all welded to an sub=frame that is then welded to the trailer frame.

Now I have posted these before so before someone says they wouldn't weld a hitch to the OEM tube, they ONLY PASS THROUGH THE OEM TUBE for looks. :)