Colder weather camping

[Njmurvin]

Being from SoCal, I'm not well versed in colder weather camping. My AF is a 4 season coach. So what does that actually mean? At what temps do you become concerned about freezing (city water, tank fresh water, holding tanks, indoor pipes)? How does the underbelly get heated (is it ducted from the furnace)? Are there different strategies for dry camping vs hooked up? For example, I like to run a small electric space heater when hooked up to electric. But that won't heat the underbelly (except the heat that might radiate through the floor). I'm just looking for some advice for when temps get into the 20s and below (particularly overnight).

[jtbuilds]

pianotuna wrote:
No one should use an unvented combustion heater. It is an unwise choice.

X2

This is what I found....

CO alarms are made to go off at the maximum 24hour exposure level NOT the the long term exposure levels that OSHA set.

A 9000BTU Mr.Buddy heater emits 1 cup of water into the air every hour it runs. With a family of 4 + a dog + a heater we'll have mold everywhere.

Once proper ventilation is provided there is no heat being added.

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/energy-solutions/avoid-unvented-gas-heaters

[DiskDoctr]

Olympian Wave Catalytic heater manual

See Page 6 for ventilation requirements.

[pianotuna]

No one should use an unvented combustion heater. It is an unwise choice.

[memtb]

Thanks Barney, I'll try to "gitt'r done".

[BarneyS]

memtb wrote:
snip...

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Barney

[memtb]

jtbuilds, Take a look at the Olympian Catalytic (Amazon, pretty reasonable). Several models, ours is relatively thin (front to back), installed by the original owner. He and his wife did extensive winter camping, and were pleased with it. We just got our class c recently, so can't make a truly informative answer. But, will be testing it very soon on a short "shake-down" cruise to the Bighorns. Ours is mounted, on left side of entrance, beneath the folding kitchen counter extension. This area may not work with your floor plan.

Will include pictures....when I learn how!

[jtbuilds]

memtb wrote:

jtbuilds wrote:
We dry camp every year in the winter. The longest has been 7 nights at temps between 25F and 12F.

Tank heater consume allot of battery power. We don't use them

The best tool to have is a muti channel thermometer. We have an older AcuRite that charts the temps over 2-3 days. We place the thermometers by the batteries, pass though, dump valves, outside and an outside wall where the waterline run.

We'll stuff the wet bay full of Roxul insulation. The windows are filled with 1 1/2" styro. The large windows have 12" x 12" and 24" x 24" plugs that slip in and out to allow sunlight in during the day.

The AC ducts and AC intakes are block off with 2" XPS






The top of the slide a 1" EPDM foam that is held on with velcro

Condensation is the enemy. A small inverter and dehumidifier that works at cooler (65F) temps is a must have.




I'm installing a Propex heater. Hoping it will reduce the draw on the batteries during the shoulder seasons. If it works I'll add anther to heat the front of the trailer and the tanks.

https://www.rockymountainwesty.com/Propex_Heatsource_Unit_p/hs2000.htm

A spay bottle
and some windshield antifreeze that can be used to thaw ice on the slides.

In a week a 2000w generator will be run (no solar) approx 4-6 hrs a day.

Slide toppers are an added benefit.

A ladder and a bush broom to clean snow off the roof.

jtbuilds, On the temps that your working with... did you mean "minus" 12 to 24

So far we've been on the positive side not the negative side.

[jtbuilds]

pianotuna wrote:
jtbuilds,

Look for an un powered through the wall vented heater.

Here is one:


http://www.gasheaterstore.com/Williams-1403821-Direct-Vent-Furnace--14000-btu--Propane-LP-_p_89.html

Looked at a few of those but the finding and a space on an inside wall was an issue and so was the venting.

[memtb]

jtbuilds wrote:
We dry camp every year in the winter. The longest has been 7 nights at temps between 25F and 12F.

Tank heater consume allot of battery power. We don't use them

The best tool to have is a muti channel thermometer. We have an older AcuRite that charts the temps over 2-3 days. We place the thermometers by the batteries, pass though, dump valves, outside and an outside wall where the waterline run.

We'll stuff the wet bay full of Roxul insulation. The windows are filled with 1 1/2" styro. The large windows have 12" x 12" and 24" x 24" plugs that slip in and out to allow sunlight in during the day.

The AC ducts and AC intakes are block off with 2" XPS






The top of the slide a 1" EPDM foam that is held on with velcro

Condensation is the enemy. A small inverter and dehumidifier that works at cooler (65F) temps is a must have.




I'm installing a Propex heater. Hoping it will reduce the draw on the batteries during the shoulder seasons. If it works I'll add anther to heat the front of the trailer and the tanks.

https://www.rockymountainwesty.com/Propex_Heatsource_Unit_p/hs2000.htm

A spay bottle
and some windshield antifreeze that can be used to thaw ice on the slides.

In a week a 2000w generator will be run (no solar) approx 4-6 hrs a day.

Slide toppers are an added benefit.

A ladder and a bush broom to clean snow off the roof.

jtbuilds, On the temps that your working with... did you mean "minus" 12 to 24

[pianotuna]

jtbuilds,

Look for an un powered through the wall vented heater.

Here is one:


http://www.gasheaterstore.com/Williams-1403821-Direct-Vent-Furnace--14000-btu--Propane-LP-_p_89.html

[jtbuilds]

We dry camp every year in the winter. The longest has been 7 nights at temps between 25F and 12F.

Tank heater consume allot of battery power. We don't use them

The best tool to have is a muti channel thermometer. We have an older AcuRite that charts the temps over 2-3 days. We place the thermometers by the batteries, pass though, dump valves, outside and an outside wall where the waterline run.

We'll stuff the wet bay full of Roxul insulation. The windows are filled with 1 1/2" styro. The large windows have 12" x 12" and 24" x 24" plugs that slip in and out to allow sunlight in during the day.

The AC ducts and AC intakes are block off with 2" XPS

The top of the slide a 1" EPDM foam that is held on with velcro

Condensation is the enemy. A small inverter and dehumidifier that works at cooler (65F) temps is a must have.

I'm installing a Propex heater. Hoping it will reduce the draw on the batteries during the shoulder seasons. If it works I'll add anther to heat the front of the trailer and the tanks.

https://www.rockymountainwesty.com/Propex_Heatsource_Unit_p/hs2000.htm

A spay bottle and some windshield antifreeze that can be used to thaw ice on the slides.

In a week a 2000w generator will be run (no solar) approx 4-6 hrs a day.

Slide toppers are an added benefit.

A ladder and a bush broom to clean snow off the roof.

[Njmurvin]

All good stuff! Thanks everyone.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Should not be an issue if you run the propane furnace while traveling.

garyp4951 wrote:
I winter camped at Grizzy in West Yellowstone, and you will have to bring your water hose in at night, and use your tank.
The hard part is keeping things from freezing while driving in freezing temps when moving to another campground.

[garyp4951]

I winter camped at Grizzy in West Yellowstone, and you will have to bring your water hose in at night, and use your tank.
The hard part is keeping things from freezing while driving in freezing temps when moving to another campground.