Forum Discussion

TCBaxter's avatar
TCBaxter
Explorer
Oct 04, 2015

Continuing Water Heater Issue

I am having a terrible time with a suburban water heater. I had technician check out the power supply and am getting the correct power to the unit. The heating element was bad so I replaced that. I am getting luke warm water at best which is just enough to take a shower without shivering. The unit is no where near a shop to take it to and is semi-permanent in a park. I am some what repair inclined but this one has me baffled. Is there an adjustment for a thermostat or can they go bad? The propane portion provides the same results. I don't get the scalding type water I have been used to in other campers.
  • Tacswa3's avatar
    Tacswa3
    Explorer
    Oct 04, 2015
    Sounds like a thermostat issue, and yes they can be replaced. I would start there.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    Oct 04, 2015
    I see you have an older RV unit so be sure to check out the center VALVE used for winterizing and make sure it is not partially open.. You may be mixing COLD water with the hot water...

    Just a thought...



    Roy Ken
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Oct 04, 2015
    Went thru this with you a month and half ago.......LINK

    Did you check the valving on backside of water heater?
    Bypass not open feeding cold water into hot water line making it luke warm?????

    Same luke warm results using electric or propane.......NOT t-stats cause they use separate sets of t-stats.
    You have cold water mixing with hot water.....either thru bypass valve or thru outside shower (turned off on handle instead of with hot/cold knobs)


    HERE is MANUAL.
    Maybe you will have better luck using it.
  • gronskis's avatar
    gronskis
    Explorer
    Oct 04, 2015
    I'm inclined to agree with RoyB ... It sounded like leakage from the cold to the hot side to me. Or, the thermostat as the previous post suggested. Got to be one of the other ... Let us know how you make out!
  • TCBaxter's avatar
    TCBaxter
    Explorer
    Oct 04, 2015
    I think Royc is on to something. I'll pick up a t stat just in case and let youknow
  • donn0128's avatar
    donn0128
    Explorer II
    Oct 04, 2015
    Just went thru this with my Suburban. New element, bad switch and shorted to ground temp limit switch all contributed to my problem. Now, hot water in 15 minutes on electricity.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Oct 05, 2015
    TCBaxter wrote:
    I think Royc is on to something. I'll pick up a t stat just in case and let youknow


    Pick up 2 t-stats cause you stated same luke warm/cold water when using electric or propane.

    IF (big IF) t-stats where causing COLD water then electric would not turn on, propane would not turn on cause normal t-stat has to be closed for either to operate. THEN would open after temp got to 130*F.

    IF (another big IF) normal t-stat failed to open then water temp would be scaling hot ----high temp t-stat would not open until 170*F

    SO t-stats are not cause of luke warm/cold water coming out of hot water line.

    Cold water getting into hot water line diluting the temp is problem.

    But if you pickup new t-stats get one set that is for 120V AC and get one set that is for 12V DC cause they use different voltages

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