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converter

v2k1966
Explorer
Explorer
Our lights are starting to dim and the converter seems to be kicking on a lot more than it used to.

We have a 2011 Cougar 318 SAB. Where would the converter be located on this camper?

Is there a converter that is better than others if we have to a new one?

Thank You.
33 REPLIES 33

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
DReisinger wrote:
Is there a good or bad test for converter before I lay out the money for a new one, when that may have not been the problem
WFCO should hold 13.6 volts with a good load. Bench test it.

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just replaced our WFCO WD-8855 with a Progressive Dynamics PD9260CV 60 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard. Could not be happier. Knew battery was good as we have run the slides in and out several times in storage off of the battery only, YES I have a full battery disconnect switch.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
DReisinger wrote:
I feel so stupid, I replaced a good converter because of the battery disconnect switch in the off position. Well, now I have a battery charger for the garage


Like I said, it wasn't a complete waste.

If the old one was a simple single stage charger, then your money was well spent.

I'm about to replace mine....as soon as I can find a shop that I can trust not to screw me over. My local CW does not qualify.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
DReisinger wrote:
I feel so stupid, I replaced a good converter because of the battery disconnect switch in the off position. Well, now I have a battery charger for the garage
No problem just a lesson learned and you won't do that again.

But you would be wise to have the battery load tested before your trip.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
DReisinger wrote:
I feel so stupid, I replaced a good converter because of the battery disconnect switch in the off position. Well, now I have a battery charger for the garage


LOL, oh well. Good onya for letting us know how it worked out.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

DReisinger
Explorer
Explorer
I feel so stupid, I replaced a good converter because of the battery disconnect switch in the off position. Well, now I have a battery charger for the garage

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
Sam Spade wrote:

Before you do anything, you have to be sure the batteries and connections are good.


I TOLD you to be SURE the battery itself and the main connections were good BEFORE you spent money on a converter....well, a better converter wasn't money wasted but.........

Your battery is NOT connected to the rest of your system or it has a bad internal connection.
This could be because of a bad connection at a clamp, a bad solenoid or simply a battery disconnect switch in the OFF position.

If the converter was charging it, it would measure MORE than 12.6 and it would run the lights when the shore power was disconnected.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

DReisinger
Explorer
Explorer
Now I am stumped,replaced the converter with a new 4 stage, battery reads 12.5 volts, when shore power is disconnected none of the DC lights work

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
The WFCO is a 3 stage charger. Just not a very good or reliable one.

There is no situation where that WFCO should put out less than 13.2V. If it is, best get a replacement on order.

Still think you should fully charge and load test that battery. Using a different charger perhaps. But you're running out of time to get off the stick and replace that converter.

We can help you select a replacement, if you can shoot a photo of your existing one. Your description above makes me think it might not be built into your load center. So the links I gave you above might not be correct.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
DReisinger wrote:
Thanks Sam, 10.5 volts is all she puts out


Measured how.....connected to the battery or not ??

If it is connected to a REALLY dead battery, like one with a shorted cell, you might read 10.5 because of the battery.

It needs to be connected to a known good and fully charged battery to be sure it won't raise the voltage above 12.8 or so. Then you know it is bad.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

DReisinger
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks Sam, 10.5 volts is all she puts out

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
DReisinger wrote:
Is there a good or bad test for converter before I lay out the money for a new one, when that may have not been the problem


Yes and no. They can be good one minute and bad the next.

A simple one stage converter should put out something around 13.5 Volts all the time, measured at the battery.

That measurement will be a bit less if the battery is really low and a bit higher as the charge builds up.

Before you do anything, you have to be sure the batteries and connections are good.

Then most experienced folks agree that a good replacement 3 stage converter is worth the investment even if your original one stage is still working.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

DReisinger
Explorer
Explorer
Is there a good or bad test for converter before I lay out the money for a new one, when that may have not been the problem

RustyJC
Explorer
Explorer
If I were you and were not going to address this before your trip, I'd certainly take a good battery charger with me. You may very well need it.

Rusty
2014.5 DRV Mobile Suites 38RSSA #6972

2016 Ram 3500 Dually Longhorn Crew Cab Long Bed, 4x4, 385/900 Cummins, Aisin AS69RC, 4.10, 39K+ GCWR, 30K+ trailer tow rating, 14K GVWR

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