Do I really need a sliding hitch?

[drillagent]

I know there are probably lots of opinions on this topic, but that's what I'm looking for. I need the pro's and con's. And I've already heard the "which would you rather pay for, a slider or new truck cab" mantra. I'm hoping for more ideas.

We went to our local Camping World and we met some very nice people. When the topic of sliding hitches came up, we were basically told we really won't need it because we won't have to turn that much.

We have a 2012 F250 diesel Crew Cab short bed SRW. I've already crunched the numbers and figured that it would tow the Montana Mountaineer 375FLF with the 79 degree turning radius front cap that we want to purchace in the near future. So here are my questions.

In what situations will we need to go beyond 79 degrees?

Do we really need 90 degrees of turning radius?

Besides the possibility of going beyond 79 degrees and crushing my cab, why else would we need a sliding hitch?

Any and all info is welcome and appreciated. Thanks.

[MFL]

transamz9 wrote:
I don't see how trailer trailers get around. The way you people are talking, you can't go if you can't turn 90*. I don't know whether you people know it or not but the do put a shifter in the cab on these trucks that allows you to change the direction the truck is going. The way I see it is if you can't back your trailer without hitting your cab, you have no business towing in the first place.

I agree, you need to be more aware, when towing any trailer. You can only turn so short, when pulling your TT, boat, snowmobile trailer, utility, etc.

I have pulled my last two FWs with a 6 3/4' bed, with no slider. I have my hitch pin 41"s behind the cab, with good clearance. I doubt that I could turn 90 degrees, but wouldn't, even if I could.

The OP is borderline on his payload, and the weight of a slider hitch will only add to the problem.

Jerry

[Slownsy]

We hawe 8' tray but step drive if I don't slide back hitch rear of tray will connect with overhang of FW.

[mguay]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

mguay wrote:
The one thing that no one hit on was this. If you get yourself into a situation where you would actually need a slider to make "that" sharp of a turn...you are going to need more than a back window! The suspension and tin that holds the 5ers of today will be bent and or broken! Any time that you crank over a dual axle trailer like that it will drag one of them and bend stuff up. I had a slider in a SB and used it one time...I didn't need it and ended up tearing off the tailgate protector when the pin box hit it!

Wow you must be talking about some bottom of the barrel RV.

Keystone!

When I bought mine 4yrs ago I noticed that both equalizers were "leaning" about 1 1/2" out of vertical. I called Keystone and sent pics. They asked if the dealer used a skid steer of fork truck to move the units. Yes don't they all. They told me it happens when they turn them too sharp and drag an axle. They recommended I get the alignment checked. I did and it was still spot on. I have towed it over 20k since with no bad tire wear. This spring I needed to remove the coroplast to access a dump valve and found the beer can crossmember at the equalizer area broken off both frame rails!

[transamz9]

I don't see how trailer trailers get around. The way you people are talking, you can't go if you can't turn 90*. I don't know whether you people know it or not but the do put a shifter in the cab on these trucks that allows you to change the direction the truck is going. The way I see it is if you can't back your trailer without hitting your cab, you have no business towing in the first place.

[Cummins12V98]

mguay wrote:
The one thing that no one hit on was this. If you get yourself into a situation where you would actually need a slider to make "that" sharp of a turn...you are going to need more than a back window! The suspension and tin that holds the 5ers of today will be bent and or broken! Any time that you crank over a dual axle trailer like that it will drag one of them and bend stuff up. I had a slider in a SB and used it one time...I didn't need it and ended up tearing off the tailgate protector when the pin box hit it!

Wow you must be talking about some bottom of the barrel RV.

[Cummins12V98]

tanman32225 wrote:

aspen2008 wrote:
My experience: I had a F250 when I bought my 2008 (35’) Newmar camper and I was not worried. On the way home I had two busted belts on my rear tires and had to purchase two new tires. Once I got home I weighed my empty camper and found out that my rear tires were 250 lbs from their max rating. When you load your rear tires that close to max rating your truck is what people call mushy, because the sidewall of the tires cannot support the weight. I move up to a GMC 3500 dually and all my problems are gone. When you start pulling 35’+ campers you really need the stability of a dually.

A F250 does not guarantee your tires have Load Rating of E on the tires. Some do some have Less. Mine came with 18 inch load rating of E. I have seen several F250's with 16 inch and a less rated tires. If you want to put an large load on the rear make sure your tires will handle the load.

I am not calling you a liar but I am confident all 2500/250 trucks come with E tires.

[sele]

use it every time you back up all it takes is once imagine if you will 1000 miles from home backing in a tight spot and BOOM a blown back window talk about ruining a vacation I have seen this twice in campgrounds glad Ihave a slider

[avvidclif1]

drillagent wrote:

Krease wrote:
My front living room Montana has a 3100lb pin weight (22% hitch weight). That's not including the hitch, or any water in the tanks. And we have nothing in the living room portion but a few movies. My 3750FL has a GVWR of 16k, and it weighs in ready to camp at around 15k. Front living rooms are more pin heavy than traditional living 5th wheels.

Now as for the short bed portion... I have a Reese slider that I've never had to use. I have the morryde pin box on mine and can even show you pictures with it hooked up from the side if you'd like. I can go to 90 degrees also. Knowing what I know now, I would have not bought the slider, but who knows, maybe my "next one" I'll need the slider.

Thanks for the info on your 3750FL. We had originally wanted to go with that FW but realized it was too big for our truck. The 375FLF is exactly the same but with only one door. I would definitely like to see your hookup if you can post some pictures. How is the Morryde? Thanks for everyone's help. Now I just have to figure out where to get 3,000 pounds so I can test my rear springs.

I would suggest if you're going to do it by the book and follow recommended weights that you have your truck weighed, full of fuel and normal passenger load. Go to about any truck stop with the Cat Scale sign and they will weigh it for abt $10.

Then look at the door plate for FAWR and RAWR. Compare to the scale ticket and you will see how much pin weight you can support. Any trailer you look at forget the empty weight or empty pin weight. Look for the GVWR of the trailer and multiply by 20% (0.2) to get a good idea of a real pin weight. If that pin weight added to the actual weight of the rear axle is less than the RAWR you are good. Allow a couple of hundred pounds for hitch and add to that whatever else you carry in the bed. The front axle weight won't change much.

Then take the GVWR of the trailer and add it to the actual weight of the truck. If under the GCVWR posted on the door you are good. Start hauling.

My setup listed below:
FAWR 5000 Empty 4660 Loaded 5020
RAWR 6693 " 3580 " 5900 (Hitch & Pin weight = 2320)
GVWR 11000 Actual 10920
GCVWR 23000 Actual 18,300

All of those weights are with an empty water tank otherwise fully loaded and headed out camping with wife, daughter, and 2 grandkids. And I think the kitchen sink the way my wife packs

My rear tires are 18" Load Range E rated 3415 ea, total 6830, more than the axle rating.

Granted my trailer is not as large as you are looking at but I think it's better to have too much truck rather than the other way around.

On topic. I have a short bed (6.5) and a slider. I've never used it.

[Krease]

Another



This gives an idea of the amount of clearance. Maybe next time I get a chance, I'll take a picture of it at 90. But there's plenty of clearance with that pin box, and in all honesty if I did use the slider, it'd probably hit the bedsides or tailgate.

[crabbin_cabin]

NO! I have pulled 4 different fifth wheels ( 28' to 32') with 4 different short bed trucks (all chevys) over 200,000 miles and never have owned a slider hitch and never wished I had one! Learn to pay attention while backing.

[drillagent]

Krease wrote:
My front living room Montana has a 3100lb pin weight (22% hitch weight). That's not including the hitch, or any water in the tanks. And we have nothing in the living room portion but a few movies. My 3750FL has a GVWR of 16k, and it weighs in ready to camp at around 15k. Front living rooms are more pin heavy than traditional living 5th wheels.

Now as for the short bed portion... I have a Reese slider that I've never had to use. I have the morryde pin box on mine and can even show you pictures with it hooked up from the side if you'd like. I can go to 90 degrees also. Knowing what I know now, I would have not bought the slider, but who knows, maybe my "next one" I'll need the slider.

Thanks for the info on your 3750FL. We had originally wanted to go with that FW but realized it was too big for our truck. The 375FLF is exactly the same but with only one door. I would definately like to see your hookup if you can post some pictures. How is the Morryde? Thanks for everyone's help. Now I just have to figure out where to get 3,000 pounds so I can test my rear springs.

[mguay]

The one thing that no one hit on was this. If you get yourself into a situation where you would actually need a slider to make "that" sharp of a turn...you are going to need more than a back window! The suspension and tin that holds the 5ers of today will be bent and or broken! Any time that you crank over a dual axle trailer like that it will drag one of them and bend stuff up. I had a slider in a SB and used it one time...I didn't need it and ended up tearing off the tailgate protector when the pin box hit it!

[tanman32225]

aspen2008 wrote:
My experience: I had a F250 when I bought my 2008 (35’) Newmar camper and I was not worried. On the way home I had two busted belts on my rear tires and had to purchase two new tires. Once I got home I weighed my empty camper and found out that my rear tires were 250 lbs from their max rating. When you load your rear tires that close to max rating your truck is what people call mushy, because the sidewall of the tires cannot support the weight. I move up to a GMC 3500 dually and all my problems are gone. When you start pulling 35’+ campers you really need the stability of a dually.

A F250 does not guarantee your tires have Load Rating of E on the tires. Some do some have Less. Mine came with 18 inch load rating of E. I have seen several F250's with 16 inch and a less rated tires. If you want to put an large load on the rear make sure your tires will handle the load.

[Vulcaneer]

korbe wrote:
Never pulling forward, but backing up and turning either into a camp spot or on the street/parking lot, the last thing I want to worry about is whether or not I'm going to hit my cab. My focus is entirely on the maneuvering.

Pulling forward...If you ever do a tight 180 U-Turn, you'll hit 90 degrees right about in the middle of it.

[Cummins12V98]

OP forget the slider. Get a B&W Companion and a TrailAir extended air ride kingpin box. You will love the ride and the quality of both.

Sounds like Dually territory!