Dropped 5er with Pullrite SuperGlide?

[MNRon]

I recognize that the internet breeds paranoia. I've read several threads over the years about dropped fifth wheels on pickups, but another current thread got me to wondering. I have a Pullrite Superglide that I'm very happy with. The wrap-around jaws make it difficult to believe that they could release if closed properly, and it's hard to understand how they could be closed improperly.

All of that preamble is setting up the question. Has anyone actually dropped a fifth-wheel using a Pullrite Superglide? Not looking for "saw one dropped once" or "heard of one" etc. Just trying to understand if anyone has live experience with this problem when using a Pullrite.

As always, thanks.
Ron

[JIMMY034]

Never noticed the date, but it wasn't very deep in the topics. Yes, I've not posted for a while, so I just assumed (I know...) that this was still a lively forum. I'm beginning to see how wrong I was. Did everyone give up RVing or something? This forum was never this dead when I used to be more active years ago.

[MNRon]

Wow! Haven’t really been following RV.net for last year very much. Just happened to look tonight and saw thread on dropping with a Superglide which intrigued me...imagine my surprise when I read the initial post and realized it was ME 4yrs ago 🙂

At that point I’d pulled our 5er for about a year and probably hitched/unhitched a couple dozen times. Thought I understood Superglide but obviously not as confident as I wanted to be. Thanks for everyone that helped boost my confidence in the hitch.

Since then we’ve pulled that HitchHiker, and now our Vilano 30-40k miles and hitched/unhitched well into 3 figure territory. Not going to tell others how to do it but our experience is great with a Superglide, I (and my wife usually) look to make sure the pin is wrapped with flange below jaws but never do pull test, nor do I do a tug test on my truck hood to make sure it’s latched each time I drive...I live dangerously 🙂

I do have to admit that we did high-hitch once which the visual test caught. Unfortunately this also bent the trigger which resulted in some messing with hookup and disassembling and bending back. Have to say that Pullrite was GREAT with support. When I called them they immediately sent me a replacement trigger AND a spare, fedex, at no charge. Did I say I LOVE this hitch and company?

[fj12ryder]

"You're far more likely to drop with a split-jaw type, which still amazes me anyone still uses this design."

You've mentioned this in several posts in several threads. What, exactly, is a "split-jaw type"? I don't see how a hitch, other than a ball hitch, could work unless the jaws split apart to allow the hitch pin to enter.

[MFL]

Actually it is Jimmy raised from the dead, since he just started posting after a long absence. He has years of catching up! 🙂

Jerry

[spud1957]

Don't think I've ever seen a thread raised from the dead after FOUR YEARS!!

[Cummins12V98]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

johndeerefarmer wrote:
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/

Look at the bottom pics on the site listed. It is a B&W hitch. If you have their product you would have to get your face right up there to install the bar with this product. So if all you did instead is LOOK at the jaws to see they are wrapped around the kingpin and the hitch and kingpin plates are touching and the hitch handle is closed and locked it can't come un hitched.

Put the bar in place is just another step just like doing a visual.

JIMMY034

See the pics I posted 4 years ago. Same thing today, B&W hitch is simply hitched and no need to do more than a "VISUAL" test. Handle closed and locked with jaws around kingpin = GOLDEN.

[JIMMY034]

My last hitch was a Pullrite Super 5th, but since they didn't see it necessary to make mounting kits for newer trucks using older hitches, I went with a Demco Recon this time, and love it more. But I can't see how it could ever drop a trailer the way it's designed. It's idiot-proof. You're far more likely to drop with a split-jaw type, which still amazes me anyone still uses this design.

[JIMMY034]

What I can't understand is why so many are dead set against doing a pull test, or a tug-test as it's referred to in the trucking industry. It's cheap insurance...yet costs nothing. I'm glad you guys don't drive tractor-trailer with that carefree attitude.

[COnative]

Never had a problem. Keep the king pin a little lower than the hitch plate and let it ride up an inch or two. The release arm goes click and slams in. DONE... If it doesn't, you are not hitched prorperly. Adjust height of 5er, lower is better. Always do the pull test. simple insurance...

[Bellpr]

I have a Pullrite and I have never had any issues with dropping the 5er. Been towing with it since 2002.

[Cummins12V98]

nineback,

I drilled the holes out and eased the hole edges with a countersink. I transferred those same pins to my new Companion shown in the pic above you posted.

I believe I drilled the holes to a larger size to fit the larger two padlocks that attach to the puck locks.

Yes I have been accused of being a lock-a-holic!

[Wayfarer]

How did you get the locks through the pins. Mine only has holes large enough for carter pins. The locking lever has a hole larger enough for a lock.

Tom

Cummins12V98 wrote:

tinner12002 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

jnharley wrote:
We had a Pullrite for 11 years and never had a problem with it. We now have a B&W hitch with the puck system in our new Dodge dually. We always do a pull test, we both visually check, and we do a light check. Safety is a priority for us and none of this takes more than a minute to accomplish.

I assume your RAM is newer than the 12 listed in your sig. 13 and newer RAM's have the puck system if ordered that way. Great option!

Your choice to do a pull test if you want but after doing your visual test and all looks correct no way can it unhitch. Of course you can if you so choose!

Is this what your hitch looks like?

I have the same setup mostly because of the hitches available for the new Ram factory setup. I have mine locked to bed but never thought about locks in pins and on locking handle...probably a good idea!

I think the locks are a good idea, some on here will tell you what a waste they are but hey do what works for you! Enjoy the Truck and hitch.

[Davidg53]

This is why I like my B&W turnoverball and Goosebox. There is no doubt when that socket sits down over that 2 5/16" ball, and the lock lever snaps. There are several other reasons I like it, but this is one of the main ones.

[Hannibal]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

johndeerefarmer wrote:

up2nogood wrote:

Hannibal wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

johndeerefarmer wrote:
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/

Look at the bottom pics on the site listed. It is a B&W hitch. If you have their product you would have to get your face right up there to install the bar with this product. So if all you did instead is LOOK at the jaws to see they are wrapped around the kingpin and the hitch and kingpin plates are touching and the hitch handle is closed and locked it can't come un hitched.

Put the bar in place is just another step just like doing a visual.

Same is true with the Reese two jaw hitch.

He fails to realize, that all hitches require these same steps. the two are touching, the jaw is closed ,and the handle is locked. Good grief there is nothing else, unfortunately some do not do all the correct things resulting in a dropped fifth wheel.

Just because the jaws are closed doesn't mean that it's locked. On the Pullrite the jaw can close around the visible part of the pin and it still might not be locked. Furthermore, I can visually see that my added latch kit is in fact latched- no ifs, ands or buts.

I understand your system and I may do the same if I had a SB truck.

I look at the jaws closed around the kingpin and then lock the handle closed. It can't come undone at that point with the hitch I pictured above.

Neither can the Reese. I do it every time.