Electric Trailer Brakes and Gain Caused Wear

[broark01]

In 2012 I replaced all components of the electric brakes on the 5th wheel, from backing plate out and all bearing components (not hub). Last year (2015) I started getting "trailer wiring fault" intermittently then constantly on the last long trip home with complete trailer brake failure during these outages.

Prior to winter, I replaced the easy stuff like the break away switch and the 7-way harness and all of their associated connectors. No luck.

A couple of things I considered over the winter:
1) Was running the brakes at a gain of 10 (max)
2) If the gain is making the magnet pull harder against the hub to provide more force to the brakes, then it is probably causing more wear on the magnets, hub and the pads.

Spent 8 hours this last weekend replacing magnets, repacking bearings and putting in new seals on all 4 wheels. Brake shoes still have another season or 2 left but I will need to replace (or refinish) the side of the hubs when I replace the pads.

After the magnet replacement, no "trailer wiring faults" yet and the magnets did look pretty bad.

I have reduced the gain to 7.5 but am not very happy with the stopping power from the trailer. Anyone else have similar observations or thoughts on this subject (yes I know, get disc brakes).

[MPD56]

Just my 2 cents

The "trailer wiring fault" is just that. The controller knows that a trailer is connected and if it doesn't like the current it sees by monitoring it. Since you have tried it on 3 other Ford IBC controllers it might not be them. You can get this message on a ford without a trailer connected (I did on my 08)caused by road salt in the truck's trialer connector.

I have a 2013 F350 now and the IBC acts different then my 08 and different then a 2015. One reason is the transmission or engine braking. Also the IBC monitors foreward momentum so it is hard by seating in the dirver's seat if the controller is working. I have a brake controller tester/simulator.

My guess is your problem is caused by a electrical problem on the trailer and not a mechanical problem. Most likely a wire on the brake magnet circuit because that is what the controller monitors to give you that message.

[Jerry_B]

I just replaced my 8k white wire magnets with 10k yellow ones. Braking performance has improved.

[Memphisdoug]

I think you need to look at the wires running through the axles from one side to another. It sounds like you might have worn through the insulation somewhere and are getting intermittent grounds inside the axles. I had to replace mine for this reason. I ran the wires on the back of the axles instead of inside.

[handsome51]

Take a look at the wiring on the axles. I think you will notice how small the wires are that goes to the backing plate and from one side of the axle backing plate to the other one. I went a rewired the axles with #12 wire. Then I saudered the connection at the two wires at the backing plate before I put the twist nut on. Talk about a increase in breaking. I use to have to set mine when I was on the highway and then again in town. Now it is on one setting all the time. By using a bigger wire you are cutting down on the resistance and you increase the current flow to the magnets. This would be the next thing to look at.
While the factory axle wire runs through the axle from one side to the other . I bought a plastic tube used to house wires and mounted it on the outside of the axle tube. Tied it to the axle tube with cable ties.

[RAS43]

waltbennett wrote:
Your brakes (if Dexter) should be self adjusting and that shouldn't be an issue, especially since you've had them for 4 years.

There are still many trailers out there that do not have self adjusting brakes. I just replaced my brake assemblies and had a choice of Dexter regular brakes or self adjusting. I spent the extra $$ and went with self adjusting as an upgrade.
We should not assume that the OP's brakes are self adjusting and he hasn't actually stated what style he has. he mentioned "adjusting" them in on the road (burnishing) and one initial adjustment. But it may be that all they need at this time is a manual adjustment as the symptoms sound like out of adjustment brakes.

[waltbennett]

I just finished replacing all my brake assemblies (eTrailer) and still have to take it down the road to completely seat them. Your brakes (if Dexter) should be self adjusting and that shouldn't be an issue, especially since you've had them for 4 years. You don't say how many miles you've got on them though. I replaced ours after 30k, but they and the magnets were only about 1/3 worn - one had a bad seal (from a Virginia safety inspector manhandling the drum off & on) and had gotten grease in it. I only noticed a decrease in braking while we were on our way back from CA last year. Usually ran at about 7, but had to put it up to 10. Unless you've around 50k miles, I doubt the brakes are worn out, but I wouldn't be surprised if you've got a failed seal or two. Seals are only a few bucks each and it's not difficult (although messy) to pull wheels and drums to see what's going on. If you've a seal or brake problem, the whole assembly is only about $83. A complete drum with new bearings is a whopping $82 as well. If you're not doing it yourself, don't get taken by outrageous parts prices.

[mjbenedict]

When you can't lock up the brakes at full gain that is where the setting should be. That is, activating the lever fully at 20mph or so.
Two forest river trailers I had/have required full setting on my Dodge integrated and now my 2015 ford integrated. They both brake fine but need full gain setting.

[johntank]

With all the work you did on your rig, you did not say if you adjusted the brakes or not, just asking?

[broark01]

Thanks for all of the thoughts. Yep, get disc brakes. Anyway, this was a root cause analysis, not a replace everything, but will take that tact in a year or 2.

Back in 2012 when I replaced everything, after adjusting the brakes, I went through the whole brake adjustment routine of driving 30 mph or so and manually applying the brakes until I got the gain set where it felt adequate (10) but never locked up the trailer wheels.

This exercise was performed with a 2009 F250 SRW.
Next adjustment 2012 F350 SRW
Next adjustment 2015 F350 DRW

So unless I have had 3 bad IBCs, it is either me or the trailer 🙂

Probably the issue is I do not have a "Ram" brake controller (those Italians build nice trucks). One thing I will say, regardless of make, thank goodness for DRW when those brakes do go out.

I am going to try 7.5 on my next trip and will seriously consider going disc in a year or 2.

[Dave_H_M]

i don't know about that gain. 6.5 is the magic number for the 2012 Ford.

[cmeade]

WOW!! Gain set at 10. My 2010 Ram 3500 4x4 megacab towing 39' Keystone Alpine and my gain was 5.5 until I put EBC green pads on the TV and reset gain to 6.5 cuz the truck was stopping more and 5ver was "pushing".

[bpounds]

Curious, what kind of truck and brake controller did you have previously.

I don't know you, so I certainly can't say this applies to you, but just food for thought. I have often seen people who get their first integrated brake controller on their new truck, regardless of truck brand, are not happy with the brake performance. And it is not because the controller is not working well. Just the opposite. The new integrated controllers work so smoothly that you never feel the trailer dragging you back like the old plug-in controllers. It is unnerving, because that drag from the trailer kept us informed that the trailer brakes were working. So the urge is there to crank up the gain, when in fact the truck and trailer are stopping in unison very well.

Results in premature brake wear. Also results in lots of false complaints to the dealers that something is wrong with the IBC.

Probably not the case with you, but I'll just throw it out there.

[3oaks]

A couple of things I considered over the winter:
1) Was running the brakes at a gain of 10 (max)
2) If the gain is making the magnet pull harder against the hub to provide more force to the brakes, then it is probably causing more wear on the magnets, hub and the pads.

Perfectly normal and to be expected. The higher the gain, the higher the wear.

I find it much cheaper to replace the entire brake assemblies rather than individual components.

I purchase everything through: etrailer

[donn0128]

How are you adjusting the brakes?
Consider a disc brake conversion.