Exhaust Brake

memtb wrote:
CarnationSailer, Assuming that the brakes are in good working order, and your brake controller is working properly,you may be experiencing a common trait among many RV’s of today....not enough brake for the trailer. Many manufacturers put the minimum axles on their units...meaning that the brake size is likely minimum. In “yesteryear”, before the hydraulic disc brake systems becoming more popular...some of the higher end rv’s put a larger brake system on the axle: example a 7K axle would have the 8K brake assembly. We had a 2001 Teton set-up that way. Lots of braking power when needed!

It is probably a wiring issue if brake components are fully functioning. OEM trailer builders notoriously skimp on material and installation details. A 30' fifth wheel should have 10 gauge wire to the brake magnets to insure there is no voltage drop n the wiring run. Typically you will see OEM installs of 14 or 12 gauge wiring on 30'. The other issue is the splice methods (quality) of the wiring.

I rewired my 30' trailer with 10 gauge in a home run wiring scheme with outstanding results. When new the trailer brake controller needed to be set in the upper range of settings -both adjustments to barely skid tires on a well graded gravel road at 20 mph. After wire upgrade - the same settings immediately locked up all the trailer brakes. My controller is now set in the lower mid range of both settings. This was using a prodigy controller at the time. Now I have a MaxBrake unit -no longer built, that makes the Prodigy seem archaic in operation. Braking is very seamless now and works well for a drum brake system. Still have to be mindful of brake fade on long steep descents found off the interstate system.

Thanks everyone for your comments and thoughts.. Like I said I have been runnng the brake controller at 5.0 and feel good stopping. I will try this test of manually trying the brakes at 20 mph.
Also may up the controller one setting to 6.0

Thanks again....safe travels

I don't have an exhaust brake on my truck. It would be nice.

I fought with the electric brakes on our fiver, trying to get the lock up which is discussed here. Never could. Then when I had to re wire the brakes and harness because of the inadequate wire size, I still could get no lockup even with new brake assemblies.

So I replaced them with disk brakes. Now I definitely can lock up the brakes in order to adjust the controller to the suggested setting. The rig stops very well now, and I don't really feel the need for an exhaust brake.

It is an expensive upgrade, but now I feel very much at ease when we are coming down mountains.

Our fiver is an 05 model, so is pretty old, but we think that adding the upgrades to it makes it almost as good as a new camper, and in some ways better, since we can't afford a top of the line fiver which already has all the things I have added to this one.

I was taught that the trailer should stop itself and the truck should stop itself. You should feel little to no difference between stopping an empty truck and stopping while towing. This being with electric brakes. Surge brakes are a whole 'nother story. YMMV...

Lyle, I agree, and would’nt want the trailer to try to “remove” th hitch from the truck bed.....just a little tug!

Surge brakes.....yes another story! They only work if the tow vehicle is actually “trying” to stop the combination. If it’s slick enough... the surge brake “may not” be activated. I have “surge brakes” on our boat trailer....but not likely to be “ice fishing” with the boat! :B More of my “paranoia” surfacing! ;)

Luna18 wrote:
My bad.....yes exhaust brake is on...

Trailer brake...how do you tell is its set properly??
Mine is like set on 5 or 6 currently

Thanks

Properly set the Truck and RV will feel like they are stoping as ONE! If anything have the RV slightly feel like it's stopping more.

guidry wrote:
I've got a 2016 Duramax. I think you are confusing the exhaust brake with the intregated trailer brake system. Exhuast brakes are either on or off. The trailer brake to your left can be adjusted by numbers. I would suggest putting it at about 4.5 and see if the RV brakes even with the truck then adjust from there.

X1

MarkTwain wrote:

BarneyS wrote:

Luna18 wrote:
My bad.....yes exhaust brake is on...

Trailer brake...how do you tell is its set properly??
Mine is like set on 5 or 6 currently

Thanks

See the post above yours.
Barney

Going about 20 mph, apply the brakes with the switch on your unit but not putting your foot on the truck brakes , does the trailer come to a smooth stop without skidding the tires in about 20 yds. If yes, then job done. If trailer brakes lock up and skid before you stop, lessen the setting 5.0 to 4.0 etc. If your trailer doesen't feel like it is stopping with the 20 yards the up the setting to 5.5 etc. Just takes a little trial and error.

Luna. Be aware. Not all TT will loch their brakes. Non of mine has on pavement so far. Gravel, yes. But If when you pull the manual brake lever. The TT stops the truck, and trailer as above. You are good to go.

As I said. I have never been able to lock the tires with the lever. However I have heard the TT tires crying under heavy braking. So I know they are working.

lee worsdell wrote:
I use my exhaust all the time even with out the trailer. As for trailer brakes I have mine set at 5. And that exhaust brake on my 17 will keep my truck at one speed going thru the hills of virgina. We do a lot of trips to Bristol and Richmond.

X1, going down long steep mountain roads without an exhaust brake would not be my 1st. choice when towing my RV:):):)

memtb wrote:

IBcarguy wrote:
Speaking of exhaust brake....I have a 2013 2500HD Duramax and the exhaust brake does little to nothing, at least that I can notice. My dealer says it's normal that if there were a problem, it would trip a code. I pull a 5th wheel and was a little disappointed with the exhaust brake. It really doesn't seem to do much. The only thing I notice is that it might downshift a little more with it on.
I set my trailer brakes at 4.5. I think the trailer brakes should be an "assist" rather than do the most of the braking on my rig.

And,I’m just the opposite.....I want the trailer brakes to be “slightly” aggressive ( not to the point of “jerking” on slow mph stops). “If” I’m on a slick (wet, snow, ice) surface, I want the trailer to attempt to “stop itself”. If the truck is doing a high percentage of the braking.....a “jacknife” is more likely. The more aggressive trailer braking.... will help keep everything in a straight line!

I was taught that the trailer should stop itself and the truck should stop itself. You should feel little to no difference between stopping an empty truck and stopping while towing. This being with electric brakes. Surge brakes are a whole 'nother story. YMMV...

Lyle

CarnationSailor wrote:

MarkTwain wrote:

CarnationSailor wrote:

MarkTwain wrote:

BarneyS wrote:

Luna18 wrote:
My bad.....yes exhaust brake is on...

Trailer brake...how do you tell is its set properly??
Mine is like set on 5 or 6 currently

Thanks

See the post above yours.
Barney

.

Why do you recommend having the EB checked at my "RV shop"? I think the Chevy dealer would be a better place; however, I am super happy with the performance of the EB. And I am actually NOT unhappy with the braking of my trailer. I am just curious if I am the only one who uses a setting of 10.

The "RV shop" was a generic name for any shop/dealer/mechanic that is qualified to check and or fix
your EB if it is not operating normally:) IMHO, experience, setting your trailer brake control at 10 all the time is not the normal operational mode for normal RVing. I would have my brake control checked out by a qualified technician of your choice:)