Need help with propane regulator!

Only issue with the higher capacity regulator is that you will never get full use if it........it will always be working at the low end of its range.

You have to open the valves on the tanks very slowly or you will trigger the excess flow function which will shut off the flow from the tanks. Shut off all the tanks, bleed off the pressure, and open the tanks again very slowly.

Didn't notice this Red Reg. I'll check again tomorrow.

Had a flame briefly at stove and then it went out.

Plan was to replace all the LP pigtails in case there was a problem with them.

Could the high capacity regulator be causing issues?

RED REG is with cylinder on roadside. It reduces cylinder pressure down to 30# before going across front of 5th wheel to the main 2 stage reg/changeover where other cylinder is.

Do you get any flame at stove top?

May have a bad hose from reg output to hard pipe.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
First off.......
Are both propane cylinders on same side or are they separate....one on each side of rig?
If opposite sides then deal with one on curbside where regulator is until you get it working (Roadside has an addition RED REG that can cause problems also)


With both cylinders valved out...turn black lever on REG towards a cylinder then slowly open that cylinder service valve.

Does the RED/GREEN Indicator on REG turn GREEN?

IF yes....then turn on a stove top burner (High) and light it.
May take a little bit due to having to establish propane flow


IF RED/GREEN Indicator does NOT turn GREEN........opened cylinder valve to FAST and tripped 'excess flow' inside the big green ACME nut
OR the ACME nut/pigtail hose is bad and needs replaced.



FYI.....that reg (253H) is a very high capacity flow (350,000btu/flow rating)
The 253 would have been a better match (225,000btu/flow rating)

Didn't your Cooper Canyon come with 30# propane cylinders?

One cylinder on each side and I have been trying to get curbside working.

What is this additional red reg you are referring to? Built in to pigtail?

It does turn green but can't get stove to light. :(

I only picked up 253H because the other one they had there was just like the one that failed on me and yes I believe they are 30 not 20 as I had stated. Thx again.

First off.......
Are both propane cylinders on same side or are they separate....one on each side of rig?
If opposite sides then deal with one on curbside where regulator is until you get it working (Roadside has an addition RED REG that can cause problems also)


With both cylinders valved out...turn black lever on REG towards a cylinder then slowly open that cylinder service valve.

Does the RED/GREEN Indicator on REG turn GREEN?

IF yes....then turn on a stove top burner (High) and light it.
May take a little bit due to having to establish propane flow


IF RED/GREEN Indicator does NOT turn GREEN........opened cylinder valve to FAST and tripped 'excess flow' inside the big green ACME nut
OR the ACME nut/pigtail hose is bad and needs replaced.



FYI.....that reg (253H) is a very high capacity flow (350,000btu/flow rating)
The 253 would have been a better match (225,000btu/flow rating)

Didn't your Cooper Canyon come with 30# propane cylinders?

That should be the right one. I'll ask some questions which might lead us in the right direction.
1.) What color is showing on the top bulb?
2.) Do you have the lever handle pointed at the tank you want to start with.
3.) Have you disconnected the hose to the 20 lb bottle and hooked it back up and then very slowly opened the valve on the tank to avoid it tripping into safety mode. Do this two or three tines to get the line to the stove full of gas. Then turn on the stove to try to light the stove. Not before.
You may be fighting empty gas lines and the valve in the hose from the tank to the regulator thinks there is a leak and shutting down. However, usually if one waits a while eventually it will release and try again. It is possible that you got a bad regulator but that would be very unusual. Usually these kinds of problems are related to the hoses reacting to too much gas flow and shutting down because the lines were disconnected and now have to be refilled. Opening the valve just a very little and letting it seep for awhile to fill the hoses and tubes and then opening it a little more will avoid setting off the safety feature in the hoses. If there is too much flow the hose will shut down thinking there is a leak. Once you get the line filled back up it won't be as sensitive in the future.