new wood floor covering vent

Get er done! It won't be an issue.

Many units are built today with a very simply duct system, the aluminum floor joists form the sides of the duct and a flat sheet of aluminum is glued and stapled to the bottom of the floor joist. Another flat sheet is laid between the two joists before the plywood subfloor is installed. So, the RV is heated by both air flow and conduction and with no insulation below the duct, the underbelly and storage compartments are also heated. Without insulation above or below the duct, there is plenty of heat loss to keep the outlets from becoming uncomfortably hot to bare feet, babies, etc. So blocking off a single register is not going to overheat other portions of the duct system. Also, many RVers replace the original outlets with residential ones that are adjustable and then restrict air flow, maybe even closing off a single outlet (with some leakage). So, reduced air flow should not overheat the furnace, if it is a concern, then larger outlets could be installed in other locations to compensate for the blocked outlet.

Your openings look identical to mine, once the linoleum/ carpet is installed, holes are cut thru the plywood/sheet aluminum. Then aluminum tape is used to seal the edges before the grill is installed. With the duct being 14-15 inches wide and a 9 inch wide grill, placement of the opening becomes non-critical.

I hope you have good fire insurance on your trailer for when your rv furnace overheats and things catch fire.

I forsee a Cranal-Retal Inversion Condition coming on.
Think about how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of 'em are stupider than that!

thanks, has plenty of air space. usually you can barely feel the air coming out.
it will be covered with the linoleum and then the wood floor planks.
so far is looking good.

A/C is on ceiling, we almost never use the furnace, we have a My Buddy if we camp in winter. have turned on furnace only 3 times and that was to take chill off.

I seriously doubt that losing one vent would be a problem. But you can easily do some calculations of the cross-section of the supply line, versus the branches to the outlets, and compare.

As far as a metal cap getting hot, the cap won't get hot if there isn't air flow over the cap. So would not be an issue. In most campers there isn't enough air flow, nor hot enough air, to even get the registers hot. You can step on floor registers barefoot and they will just be warm.

Basically, DO NOT reduce the vent area of any furnace.

Ken

Is it part of cooling? Do you do a lot of winter camping?

The problem with just putting a sheet metal barrier is that the heat can radiate through it and possibly damage the laminate. If it were me, I'd try to fill as much of the heat riser in that position with insulation before attaching the sheet metal cover. Just make sure that the insulation you use will not block the primary vent path.

Jim