Raising Fifth wheel

I talked to a dexter tec today and he advised aginst using the taller equalizers he said that it would throw the alinment out.

If it's the same one I've see, the alignment is accounted for in the kit.

I had mine raised by using the lower hole in the spring shackle, and the trailer shop welded up a new holder for the equalizer. Gained about 2",

When we park in a unlevel spot that puts our door on the hide side we use this step

I used a set of the "accordion" style stairs designed for truck campers.

r

And the next question will be "Where can I get a higher step? I have to have a box to get to the first step" Who in the enginering dept designs that stuff. I had to raise my hitch because chev decided to make the box 2" taller. Then they come out with 20" tires. Look at the side of y our truck. Why do they need 12" of clearance in the wheel wells. First it horsepower wars, now it's "How high can we lift it."? Saw the perfect truck yesterday. Lowered 2008 lowered chev DRW. COOL

rattleNsmoke wrote:
You can get another 1.5" or so by simply replacing your spring equalizers with this heavy duty Dexter wet bolt kit.

clicky

I talked to a dexter tec today and he advised aginst using the taller equalizers he said that it would throw the alinment out. His sugestion was to use a sub frame or get longer hangers. I did not like that idea because of the thin frame he agreed and again sugested the sub frame. His name is Mark Pray a very nice person to talk to and was very knowledgeable of the product. I got his name from a local dexter axel and trailer parts supply house. I know that I will be doing a new sub frame. I my self am upgrading to a 16"wheel and on mr laredo trailer there would not be enough clearance on the top as well as the rod that ties the front and rear slide control together. Hope this helps. I am planing on a 3" lift and this will also give me more bed clearance.

I had discused this with a spring mfg and they said that putting blocks on a trailer spring is the best way to break a spring. This is because of the springs being short they have no were to flex like a truck or automotive spring.

Just finished something similar. 1987 Okanagan fiver; never designed for the taller newer trucks.

Flipped the springs on the axles (new spring pads). Went to 225 75R 15's from 185 14's and then the 2X4X7' 3/16 tubular steel welded to the bottom of the existing frame. Bought me the 12"+ inches from stock I needed to clear the box on the 3500. Trailer is stable with no probs so far.

None of the axle manufacturers offer blocks for lifting nor do they recommend them. Nor do trailer manufacturers offer the option in a multi axle trailer.
Main reason is side stress issues from sliding sideways around corners add lots of stress to the Ubolts and spring keepers.

As mentioned the sub frame is a better option or heavy plate spring hangers with adjustable holes like many newer RV come OEM with.

You can get another 1.5" or so by simply replacing your spring equalizers with this heavy duty Dexter wet bolt kit.

clicky

I did a 2" lift on mine with solid steel blocks, if you need more than 2" then you need to add the hollow steel as noted above.