Rewiring the brakes

[7_3_psdman]

The fifth wheel started pulling to one side when I stepped on the brakes on the truck. I looked at the old wiring and one wire fell right out of a connector when I moved it.
I decided to replace the -cross the axle wiring first. I figure on clamping the split flex tubing to the axle with adjustable band clamps. Right now I'm waiting on my three way- weather proof- connectors get here.
So I started wondering how brittle the wires are that run all the way up to the pin box. All of the old wiring under the trailer might be old and brittle.
Anybody know how big of a job it is to replace the wires from the pin box back to the axle?
Or maybe I would be better off to connect to the old wiring near the front of the fifth wheel-- maybe in the front compartment somewhere instead of trying to go all the way to the pin box.

[7_3_psdman]

I still have one hot drum after taking the fifth wheel for a test run. I will add some more grease to that EZ Lube fitting and back that brake off a couple of clicks and recheck the wires. Maybe tighten the others a couple of clicks too. If that doesn't work then I will be pulling that drum to check the brakes and bearings. Supposed to cool off nicely next week so that will make the job a lot easier.

[7_3_psdman]

Waiting for clamps to clamp the wiring to the axle, right now it is taped to the axle with duct tape. So I looked at a video about greasing EZ-Lube axles and ordered 4 tubes of high temperature grease.
Makes sense to check for wobble in the wheels and grease the bearings while you have each wheel jacked up.
I will have my bearing kit handy in case I find one that wobbles.

[7_3_psdman]

I took the fifth wheel for a ride after I ran new wiring across the axles. It no longer pulls to one side when I stop.
The wire that had pulled out of the connector didn't have any wire inside the insulator for about 3/4" back when I was stripping the wires to make the new connection. It was one of the wires that goes to the magnet.
After towing 5 miles and stopping 4-5 times I checked the hubs with my infrared thermometer and one hub on each side was hotter than the other two so I will adjust the brake shoes to make sure they don't drag.
Then I think it will be good to go.
The wiring running up front is probably okay for now.
Thanks for all the advice!

[opnspaces]

Unfortunately it's difficult to say how hard they would be to replace. I suppose if the underbelly is exposed they wouldn't be too tough. But if it's closed in you'll have a bit more of a challenge.

How was that for a fairly useless answer. :B

[NMDriver2]

The gauge of the wire for brakes is important. Thicker is better. At least the same gauge or thicker than original.

[azrving]

When i had a FW the harness ran along the left frame rail next to the gray tank. Id look at the wire where the connections are and see if corrosion has migrated under the wire covering. Sometimes it can travel pretty far and it usually looks black Often times its green or white on the connection but the black stuff can travel up the wire. If you don’t see evidence of that make the repairs and seal all the connections. Dont use silicone I try to solder all the wires and coat with the correct grease and heat shrink. Some like the crimp and heat connectors. Tape the area over well to keep the moisture out.