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Stabilizers

Allegheny_N_F_C
Explorer
Explorer
With a tag along I was will to put up with a lot wiggling a jiggling when sobody else was moving around in the trailer. Now that I have a heavy 5ver i admit the wiggling is lees than with a tt but I'm think that it could still be better. I see all of these stabilizing product out there a was woundering if any of them work as good as promised. I'm looking at a set of laterial braces that hook onto the landing gear for about $400. Any thoughts on weather or not their worth the money.
29 REPLIES 29

jaycocamprs
Explorer
Explorer
Jimf1234 wrote:
My hydraulic landing is very sturdy but the rear of the camper with 4 bunks in 2 slides moves quite a bit when the kids are moving. I realize they are 4' beyond the camper but does anyone recommend a set for the rear? I'm almost thinking about adding more stabilizers to the rear.

BAL makes the same type of telescoping brace. But they sell them in sets of 2. We had the same problem with a RL unit, you could watch the rear scissor jacks tilt back and forth. People would ask me in campgrounds how they worked. I would have them push on the rear corner, then loosen the set screws and let then push again.
2018 Silverado 3500 DRW
2011 Montana Mountaineer 285RLD

Antigua1767
Explorer
Explorer
J.T.'s
cheap..do the trick
2012 Jayco Eagle 31.5FBHS
2008 Dodge Ram Mega Cab Dually 3500

Jimf1234
Explorer
Explorer
My hydraulic landing is very sturdy but the rear of the camper with 4 bunks in 2 slides moves quite a bit when the kids are moving. I realize they are 4' beyond the camper but does anyone recommend a set for the rear? I'm almost thinking about adding more stabilizers to the rear.
2013 Sandpiper 365 SAQ
2016 Dodge 3500 900ftlbs Limited

Bighorns
Explorer
Explorer
I just put Steadyfast's on mine a few weeks ago and they make a world of difference. I was able to put them on in about 4 hours and that was taking my time doing it. I wouldn't do without them now.
2011 Duramax 3500HD Dually
2012 Keystone Cougar 330RBK

Retired_02
Explorer
Explorer
mbrule wrote:
I am seriously considering either the JT Strongarms or the Steadyfast system. Has anybody installed either themselves? If so, how was the job?

Does anybody have experience with both, I like the way the Strongarms attach to both jack and stabilizers (I like symmetry) and it seems this would work better.

The Steady fast have things to tighten, probably and easier install, but only attach to 1 jack and stabilizer, leading me to believe that they would not work as well?

Opinions??????????

My fiver is a 32 ft Kountry Star 11k dry 15k GVW if that matters

Thanks!


We just received the SteadyFast system for our Cruiser 5th wheel, 33ft length. Have not mounted it yet, as our unit is in for repairs. We were going with JT Strongarm but then determined our front compartment leading edge has nothing but sheet metal to mount the cross stabilizers to.

Lippert (the JT Strongarm and frame manufacturer) welds a 2" angle iron from frame end to frame end underneath leading edge of front compartment in such case when mounting the JT's. This would add almost 10lbs to the 40lbs weight of the stabilizer kit. Plus the brackets at each end of every strut are attached with only one bolt (more flex and play).

With our unit it just made sense to go with SteadyFast so as to avoid the extra weight and expense to purchase and weld angle iron to frame. In looking over the SteadyFast parts, everything was sturdy and very well done, with a very good powder coat finish. I do like idea of having to tighten only 3 handles Vs 6.

The brackets on the SteadyFast are very robust (with solid cast turn screws) and actually grip the end of the tubing Vs having a set screw. JT Strongarm also use a setup procedure where you tighten your back stabilizers then raise front end to tension them, tighten front stabilizers and come down a little to tension them. SteadyFast claims this is not necessary with their system.

I do hear you on the symmetry. But with SteadyFast strut going all the way across to the solid frame and gripped in solid bracket mounted with 4 bolts - stability reported to be just as solid as JT's. Good luck with your choice.

shadows4
Explorer III
Explorer III
We bought the Bal Lockarm stabilizers. They are similar to the JT's. We are very happy with them, easy to install and they work very well. Just checked and of course they are now cheaper than when we bought them. ($67.50 a pair) at Amazon with free shipping! I was going to DIY a set and it really wasn't going to be much cheaper. One unexpected advantage to the Bal's is they use the same size bolt as the X-chocks and the rear scissor jacks (3/4 inch).
2016 4X4 F350,CC,SB,Lariat,6.7L diesel,
2015 Coachmen Chapparal 324 TSRK
B&W Patriot 16K hitch.

Ed9824v
Explorer
Explorer
I want to buy them but will have to make a set myself too expensive for two pieces of pipe that slide into each other with a welded nut and T handle bolt. coming soon to my trailer
Ed So.Calif
1950 Ford F1 street rod
1968 Baha Bug with 2.2 ecotec motor 170 hp, kingcoil
2000 National Sea Breeze 5th wheel trailer
1998.5 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins,4.10 gears,turbo,trans,injectors,oil cooler,lockers,edge EZ, 35" BFG's, air dog lift pump etc.

Atom_Ant
Explorer
Explorer
mbrule wrote:
Atom Ant wrote:
I installed the front and rear JT Stabs on our last rig. It took me the better part of a day. It's all pretty straight forward. Each unit is a little different, but to access the rear crossmember to verify I was hitting steel instead of a tank required me to cut a slit in that belly material to access it and then install a patch over the belly material to reseal it.


Not to derail the stabilizer discussion... But, you have brought up another point of interest to me. How does one patch the belly material? On my last trailer I had to make some cuts (and may be this one too t install the stabilizers )due to a water mishap, and never did find a good way to patch the cuts.

Thanks everyone!!!
Mine had that really hard plastic that was tough to cut but would distort across the bottom and looked terrible. I patched it with some black automotive firewall sealant.
2008 Ford F350 2014 Redwood 36RL - Our Rig
Onan 5500, Splendide Ariston W/D, 8K axles, disk brakes, G614s, tri-glide pin box,
6-pt leveling, dual heat pump, dual awnings, Trav'ler SK-1000 Dish

mbrule
Explorer
Explorer
Atom Ant wrote:
I installed the front and rear JT Stabs on our last rig. It took me the better part of a day. It's all pretty straight forward. Each unit is a little different, but to access the rear crossmember to verify I was hitting steel instead of a tank required me to cut a slit in that belly material to access it and then install a patch over the belly material to reseal it.


Not to derail the stabilizer discussion... But, you have brought up another point of interest to me. How does one patch the belly material? On my last trailer I had to make some cuts (and may be this one too t install the stabilizers )due to a water mishap, and never did find a good way to patch the cuts.

Thanks everyone!!!

Martyn
Nomad
Nomad
I installed JTs on my rig - best mod I have ever done. Trailer is now pretty solid when parked. Love them.
2020 Keystone Cougar Half-Ton 27SGS;
2019 Dodge Ram 2500 QC 4x4 6.4 Hemi BigHorn;
DEMCO Autoslide; 2 Honda EU2000i's;
Our Website

goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
On the subject of do they work or not. Yes they make a big difference. I DIY'ed some and also made one for the rear stabs. The fronts take out 70% of the wiggle and the rear takes the rest out. When on blacktop it's as solid as can be, when on dirt or gravel we get some movement. Not much but some. It's really hard to get the rear jacks tight with dirt or gravel under them. What I found was to get the front of the 5'er near where you want it to be, lower the rear stabs and snug them up good. Then raise the front to where you like it. That puts a little more pressure on the rears.

Atom_Ant
Explorer
Explorer
I installed the front and rear JT Stabs on our last rig. It took me the better part of a day. It's all pretty straight forward. Each unit is a little different, but to access the rear crossmember to verify I was hitting steel instead of a tank required me to cut a slit in that belly material to access it and then install a patch over the belly material to reseal it.
2008 Ford F350 2014 Redwood 36RL - Our Rig
Onan 5500, Splendide Ariston W/D, 8K axles, disk brakes, G614s, tri-glide pin box,
6-pt leveling, dual heat pump, dual awnings, Trav'ler SK-1000 Dish

Brandon327
Explorer
Explorer
I have installed the steadyfast twice and to me it was easy. The hardest part is attaching the bracket to the frame. I think the steadyfast will work just as well or maybe better thabd the jt due to the geometry that the bracket makes with the leg.
2013 gmc 3500 hd cc Drw 4x4
2016 Dutchmen voltage 3990

mbrule
Explorer
Explorer
I am seriously considering either the JT Strongarms or the Steadyfast system. Has anybody installed either themselves? If so, how was the job?

Does anybody have experience with both, I like the way the Strongarms attach to both jack and stabilizers (I like symmetry) and it seems this would work better.

The Steady fast have things to tighten, probably and easier install, but only attach to 1 jack and stabilizer, leading me to believe that they would not work as well?

Opinions??????????

My fiver is a 32 ft Kountry Star 11k dry 15k GVW if that matters

Thanks!