Towing 5th Wheel level.

Ron Nielson wrote:

sidney wrote:
The nose of our 5er is about 2-3" high.

I can't flip the axles and see no way to lower the nose to level and balance the weight on the trailer axles.

My suggestion is to get your trailer FRAME level when hooked to your truck when BOTH are on a truly level surface. I use a simple 4 ft carpenters level to determine how the trailer should ride. That may or may not produce equal axle weights.

As for the height of the rear of your truck, you can get a 2 inch reduction by the use of drop shackles on the rear axle leaf springs. If you do the work yourself, the cost is less than $100 and not difficult to do.

Thanks for the suggestion.

But as I mentioned in my previous thread I don't think the 400lb difference between the trailer axles is a big deal. Also 2 or 3 inches high at the nose of a 36' 5th wheel shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks for the Input. I will make sure it is level. Since I have made my Decision, I am cancelling my Subscription to this Thread. Thanks again.

spud1957 wrote:

Travelon wrote:
If your truck is not level, you do not have enough truck to haul your 5h wheel.

Travelon

Not true. There are lots of trucks hauling within their trucks' specs but still sit too low for their personal preference. Me being one. Some guys on here with duallies add air bags to level their truck.

I notice you have Timbrens???? Makes me confused by your comment.:h

Timbrens works for me just have to have the right balance.

Just hitch up and measure the frame at the front and the back. That will tell you how level you are. No need to drive somewhere to find a level road. And even when it looks level it may not be. You need to be parallel to the road.

sidney wrote:
The nose of our 5er is about 2-3" high.

I can't flip the axles and see no way to lower the nose to level and balance the weight on the trailer axles.

My suggestion is to get your trailer FRAME level when hooked to your truck when BOTH are on a truly level surface. I use a simple 4 ft carpenters level to determine how the trailer should ride. That may or may not produce equal axle weights.

As for the height of the rear of your truck, you can get a 2 inch reduction by the use of drop shackles on the rear axle leaf springs. If you do the work yourself, the cost is less than $100 and not difficult to do.

Curious. When one says the 5th nose is "2-3 inches high", what is the measuring refernce point? At what angle would that be, and , as a correlary, what angle is too much?

OPs 'truck' is nose high

arnko37 wrote:
The newer PU trucks seem to have a taller bed. I have a 2013 GMC HD2500 and I keep a stepstool handy for when I want to up in the bed. This resulted in the nose of my 30ft Alpenlite fifth wheel. being higher in the nose when hooked up. I have read on this forum about flipping axels but it cant be done on mine. The trucks squats a little when hooked up but the trailer nose is still a couple inches high. It pulls fine and no visible problems yet.

That has been my issue since 2007 , I have always been just a little nose high on the fifth wheel, with this new Ram it is even worse had to lower hitch a bit but not real comfortable with bed clearance so I came back up an inch, about the same now as the old truck, so I expect the same results towing as before.

2oldman wrote:
Nose high would probably not be a big issue until you stop for the night.

So far we haven't stayed overnight in the trailer while hitched.

But you never know.

While loading supplies when hitched I don't even notice it being nose high.

Nose high would probably not be a big issue until you stop for the night.