Trying to decide which way to go on fifth wheel hitch

[RooDude09]

My wife and I are looking to switch to a fifth wheel from a bumper pull. I have a 2015 F-250 with short bed. The trailer we are looking at is equipped with a turning point pin box. I’ve seen and read some things on the internet that make me question the stability of system when towing and the blocking mechanism to keep the pin from turning in the hitch. I know my other option is to put in a sliding hitch and I’d be most comfortable with an automatic slider but that drives the price up substantially. My truck was previously outfitted with a rail system of some sort but everything is gone but the holes are in the bed. I’ve priced out the factory ford prep kit but it looks like puck style hitches are more expensive although I have the means to put it in myself as I’m a mechanic at a ford dealer. If anyone could give me they’re advice on what you like/use it would be greatly appreciated.

[cummins2014]

dieseltruckdriver wrote:

MFL wrote:

Well said 2014... and adding the turnover ball a waste, unless actually needed for a different goose neck trailer.

Jerry

I sat thinking my last post over for quite a while, and actually deleted what I am about to say.

As a former truck driver, if I bought a vehicle with an Anderson hitch, I wouldn't use it any farther than to get me home. No different than any sliding bar hitch.

Not sure what being a former truck driver ,and the Andersen hitch has to do with anything, but truck driver or not, how many miles you put on a Andersen hitch :h . I have put a few thousand now on a rail mount steel Andersen ,so I have been a bit further then just getting home 🙂

[cummins2014]

dieseltruckdriver wrote:

cummins2014 wrote:

WTP-GC wrote:
This thread doesn’t need to go real far.
OP: get a B & W turnover ball, install in bed. Ignore the holes for the old rail system. There’s no benefit in trying to reuse them, plus you’ll eventually hate the rails. Then get a B & W Companion or Andersen Ultimate. You don’t need a slider. You don’t need to use the articulating feature of the TP pin box. Lock it out, check the fasteners from time to time. And pay attention when making tight maneuvers. The TP pin box is designed for those short bed half ton trucks. There is absolutely no good reason at all to use the TP articulating aspect on 3/4 and 1 ton short beds with newer fifth wheels. Don’t be distracted otherwise.

Oh!, come on , you'll eventually hate the rails, why. Had them for years ,and they were not an issue . I won't buy they get the road nonsense , sure they are there ,but pray tell what are they in the road of . What sliding in a sheet of plywood . Not hardly , you go in at an angle anyway ,and after the first sheet thats a done deal.

Granted if he had the puck system great, but apparently he doesn't so now you want him to blow another large hole in the bed :h . He already has the holes use them , with bedrails ,and a good hitch he is set ,and a strong four point attachment . No fan at all of gooseneck ball attached hitches , all the torquing ,and one point of attachment . Forget the Ultimate ,and go with the steel rail mount Andersen as said .

I have to disagree with you. My last pickup had rails and a sliding bar hitch (not a slider hitch). I went with the B&W turnover and Companion on this pickup and couldn't be happier. I HATED those rails every time I used my pickup as a pickup. I could never sweep out the bed, or shovel things out. Those are some things no one ever talk about when hitches are discussed.

Not a problem if you disagree, but to make it an issue as far shoveling out stuff from the bed, I am sure thats a hindrance, but i'm one thats never taken a shovel to the bed of my pickup, just not what I bought it for . So to make a point that you can't shovel rocks, dirt whatever you need to shovel out of it was YOUR problem , not for some. Great you pointed it out, but to make it a real issue not sure it isn't something that can be worked around if necessary .

But to the point here, and what I was trying to make is , the OP has a set of bedrail holes drilled in his bed. sounded like a decent way to go considering. If its a B&W hitch he wants ,buy one that attaches to bedrails.

[dieseltruckdriv]

MFL wrote:

Well said 2014... and adding the turnover ball a waste, unless actually needed for a different goose neck trailer.

Jerry

I sat thinking my last post over for quite a while, and actually deleted what I am about to say.

As a former truck driver, if I bought a vehicle with an Anderson hitch, I wouldn't use it any farther than to get me home. No different than any sliding bar hitch.

[dieseltruckdriv]

cummins2014 wrote:

WTP-GC wrote:
This thread doesn’t need to go real far.
OP: get a B & W turnover ball, install in bed. Ignore the holes for the old rail system. There’s no benefit in trying to reuse them, plus you’ll eventually hate the rails. Then get a B & W Companion or Andersen Ultimate. You don’t need a slider. You don’t need to use the articulating feature of the TP pin box. Lock it out, check the fasteners from time to time. And pay attention when making tight maneuvers. The TP pin box is designed for those short bed half ton trucks. There is absolutely no good reason at all to use the TP articulating aspect on 3/4 and 1 ton short beds with newer fifth wheels. Don’t be distracted otherwise.

Oh!, come on , you'll eventually hate the rails, why. Had them for years ,and they were not an issue . I won't buy they get the road nonsense , sure they are there ,but pray tell what are they in the road of . What sliding in a sheet of plywood . Not hardly , you go in at an angle anyway ,and after the first sheet thats a done deal.

Granted if he had the puck system great, but apparently he doesn't so now you want him to blow another large hole in the bed :h . He already has the holes use them , with bedrails ,and a good hitch he is set ,and a strong four point attachment . No fan at all of gooseneck ball attached hitches , all the torquing ,and one point of attachment . Forget the Ultimate ,and go with the steel rail mount Andersen as said .

I have to disagree with you. My last pickup had rails and a sliding bar hitch (not a slider hitch). I went with the B&W turnover and Companion on this pickup and couldn't be happier. I HATED those rails every time I used my pickup as a pickup. I could never sweep out the bed, or shovel things out. Those are some things no one ever talk about when hitches are discussed.

[MFL]

cummins2014 wrote:

WTP-GC wrote:
This thread doesn’t need to go real far.
OP: get a B & W turnover ball, install in bed. Ignore the holes for the old rail system. There’s no benefit in trying to reuse them, plus you’ll eventually hate the rails. Then get a B & W Companion or Andersen Ultimate. You don’t need a slider. You don’t need to use the articulating feature of the TP pin box. Lock it out, check the fasteners from time to time. And pay attention when making tight maneuvers. The TP pin box is designed for those short bed half ton trucks. There is absolutely no good reason at all to use the TP articulating aspect on 3/4 and 1 ton short beds with newer fifth wheels. Don’t be distracted otherwise.

Oh!, come on , you'll eventually hate the rails, why. Had them for years ,and they were not an issue . I won't buy they get the road nonsense , sure they are there ,but pray tell what are they in the road of . What sliding in a sheet of plywood . Not hardly , you go in at an angle anyway ,and after the first sheet thats a done deal.

Granted if he had the puck system great, but apparently he doesn't so now you want him to blow another large hole in the bed :h . He already has the holes use them , with bedrails ,and a good hitch he is set ,and a strong four point attachment . No fan at all of gooseneck ball attached hitches , all the torquing ,and one point of attachment . Forget the Ultimate ,and go with the steel rail mount Andersen as said .

Well said 2014... and adding the turnover ball a waste, unless actually needed for a different goose neck trailer.

Jerry

[4x4ord]

Personally I have no use for a slider or a hitch like the turning point but if I thought I needed something my first preference would probably be using my B&W hitch with the Turning Point. Next I would look for a used auto slide. I wouldn't buy a manual slider of any make.... I would never use it.

[cummins2014]

WTP-GC wrote:
This thread doesn’t need to go real far.
OP: get a B & W turnover ball, install in bed. Ignore the holes for the old rail system. There’s no benefit in trying to reuse them, plus you’ll eventually hate the rails. Then get a B & W Companion or Andersen Ultimate. You don’t need a slider. You don’t need to use the articulating feature of the TP pin box. Lock it out, check the fasteners from time to time. And pay attention when making tight maneuvers. The TP pin box is designed for those short bed half ton trucks. There is absolutely no good reason at all to use the TP articulating aspect on 3/4 and 1 ton short beds with newer fifth wheels. Don’t be distracted otherwise.

Oh!, come on , you'll eventually hate the rails, why. Had them for years ,and they were not an issue . I won't buy they get the road nonsense , sure they are there ,but pray tell what are they in the road of . What sliding in a sheet of plywood . Not hardly , you go in at an angle anyway ,and after the first sheet thats a done deal.

Granted if he had the puck system great, but apparently he doesn't so now you want him to blow another large hole in the bed :h . He already has the holes use them , with bedrails ,and a good hitch he is set ,and a strong four point attachment . No fan at all of gooseneck ball attached hitches , all the torquing ,and one point of attachment . Forget the Ultimate ,and go with the steel rail mount Andersen as said .

[WTP-GC]

This thread doesn’t need to go real far.
OP: get a B & W turnover ball, install in bed. Ignore the holes for the old rail system. There’s no benefit in trying to reuse them, plus you’ll eventually hate the rails. Then get a B & W Companion or Andersen Ultimate. You don’t need a slider. You don’t need to use the articulating feature of the TP pin box. Lock it out, check the fasteners from time to time. And pay attention when making tight maneuvers. The TP pin box is designed for those short bed half ton trucks. There is absolutely no good reason at all to use the TP articulating aspect on 3/4 and 1 ton short beds with newer fifth wheels. Don’t be distracted otherwise.

[MFL]

RooDude09 wrote:
I definitely want the extra clearance all the time so that if I need to make a tight turn) I don’t forget to look if the trailer is going to hit the truck.

With most newer model FWs having rounded front corners, designed for towing with 6.5' bed trucks, this is not as big an issue as it used to be. Certainly when backing short, clearance can become an issue, if not paying attention, no different than backing any bumper pull. Backing into a tight space, taking it slow, getting out to look when needed, is best option, no matter the trailer type.

Your Ford axle center is about 41"s behind the cab. If hitch pin is 40"s from cab, and FW front rounded, clearance would be a non-issue, in all but severe cases, when common sense/awareness is more critical.

Jerry

[RooDude09]

I read the wedge can loosen up. I see someone has said you have to have the correct wedge so maybe that was the problem. The other problem of the pivot point being behind the axle causing sway was in an advertisement for a slider hitch so not sure what to believe on that. Haven’t had a chance to talk to any real people yet about it I definitely want the extra clearance all the time so that if I need to make a tight turn) I don’t forget to look if the trailer is going to hit the truck.

[MFL]

If existing holes in bed are for standard rails, I'd just install same rails, and adjustable ahead/back, but non sliding hitch. IIRC, the rotating pin boxes are not recommended for single point attaching FW hitches.

Jerry

[cummins2014]

RooDude09 wrote:
My wife and I are looking to switch to a fifth wheel from a bumper pull. I have a 2015 F-250 with short bed. The trailer we are looking at is equipped with a turning point pin box. I’ve seen and read some things on the internet that make me question the stability of system when towing and the blocking mechanism to keep the pin from turning in the hitch. I know my other option is to put in a sliding hitch and I’d be most comfortable with an automatic slider but that drives the price up substantially. My truck was previously outfitted with a rail system of some sort but everything is gone but the holes are in the bed. I’ve priced out the factory ford prep kit but it looks like puck style hitches are more expensive although I have the means to put it in myself as I’m a mechanic at a ford dealer. If anyone could give me they’re advice on what you like/use it would be greatly appreciated.

This thread is going to be fun, but if you already have the holes, bedrails ,and conventional hitch is a solid way to go. You will get to hear it all, but personally with your setup bedrails ,and a Andersen steel standard rail mount hitch would be ideal. Not sure if it would work with whatever that pin box you have ,but if it does it will eliminate the need for a slider, good way to go, I tow with a conventional slider hitch, and the Andersen with a short bed ,no issues either way. The Andersen route would be by far the most economical. If that pin box can be locked out ,the Andersen is the answer .

[sayoung]

FYI, I know the Trailair turning point pinbox has a specific wedge for each brand of 5er hitch . I only know this from reading the install/maintenance manual as I am about to help a friend remove his off a GD to check it. It has a bind when turning to the drivers side that wasn't there when new.

[Second_Chance]

There are a LOT of people on the Grand Design forums pulling the lighter rigs with the Turning Point pin boxes. I've not seen anyone post about having any issues with the Turning Point setup. It was designed just for people like you with short bed trucks. What kinds of problems have you been reading about?

Rob