Forum Discussion
bstark
Sep 18, 2014Explorer
PFM wrote:
For those asking. I am dealing directly with CC. Also it is/was not a light and cheap trailer, so that post is not an accurate statement. I just feel we got the short end of the stick on this RV. But from the sounds of it.....this is not normal, so that is encouraging.
I read to the end of the thread at page 5 before coming back to this and getting on here to tell you that second guessing you and your steps taken so far serves no useful purpose so I won't bother.
My opinion: IF no sidewall damage is evident at corners of front slideout opening, upper and lower AND considering you've already invested in all of the things that would make it a very serviceable and better towing rig like much better suspension and tires etc. My advice would be to carry on regardless - strip all the broken bits and while you've got the underbelly off it giving you access to under the gooseneck framing etc give the thing a good going over with one of those flexible fiber optic scanner tools with a viewer screen.
Find the weak points and cut out and replace the cheap, and poor quality steel "C" channel and replace with thicker wall stuff under there that provides rigidity at the transition from the lower full length frame rails up to the goose neck portion of the framing and provide gussets if replacement of the fiberglass under cover permits the added metal.
Replacing all of the steel members under that goose neck is advised as what you're going to find is fractures in the cheap stuff they use with the metal adjacent to right angle welds made brittle with the bad welding RV builders (Lippert for eg.) are notorious for. You will in all likelihood, find the "C" members have actually ripped about an inch from those welds in multiple places.
Using thicker wall "C" channel of better grade steel fashioned to provide more than factory designed strength to the pin-box area, then replacing all the insulation while addressing any touchy areas you find like hydraulic lines to slideout cylinder, or additional wiring for 115v outlets in bedroom area, cover her all up with new fiberglass and yards of that damn seam caulking.
Now you are at the point of either deciding to sell it, now that it's again saleable OR roll the dice and go down the road secure in the knowledge you've addressed all the lemons in your fruit bowl. IF however, you have the least little 'niggly' doubt about the rig after you've repaired it and are glued to your driver's side mirror waiting for the front end to drop onto your bed rails, then sell the thing and don't look back!
About Fifth Wheel Group
19,006 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 13, 2025