Video of B&W Flex

oilslick wrote:
My 2011 ram 3500 is modified so extra power, 14,000GVWR trailer and I don't have an air suspension pin box, hitch at most rearward position. More importantly I remove my hitch very often. You being an installer I would very much like your opinion on MY method of installation.

With B&W's method I was concerned that the "u" bolts stretching and the lock nuts losing their locking ability and changing the friction applied with the set amount of torque would be a problem. Also the draw down bolt and nut stretch/torque.

I know that when the hitch is used with the 2 5/16 ball there is NO draw down torque applied to the lock pin, I have even heard of people forgetting to lock the pin in place on both the companion and the ball hitch. What I and many like me did was to install the thicker rubber feet then shim and torque the draw down bolt so that the lock pin can be easily slid in and out with the hitch just sitting there with no load, (just like the goose ball)then torque the "u" bolts. This means there is NO preload on the lock pin the same as with the goose ball. This also means the entire hitch can be lifted out in one piece with just drawing back the lock pin.

Seriously? Stretching 1/2" hardened bolts at either 40 or 80 lb ft? You may want to have your torque wrench calibrated if you think that's happening. The biggest issue with the nylock nuts is that, after time, and many uses, the nylon gets brittle and will start to break off, jamming in the threads. Personally, I grab my breaker bar and a cheater and simply twist them off, then call B&W for a new, free, set. If you don't draw down the Companion, you introduce slop into the system. Even a small amount can do damage. I've noticed no issue with my '02 D'max, whatsoever, with my 11,300 GVW FW loaded to near max, with a standard pin box. Virtually no visible flex and I do go off-road at least once a year.

Lyle