cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

What to do? 5er not level w/ truck

ACZL
Explorer
Explorer
I think a similar post was done about this very thing, sorry if it's a repeat.

With units in sig, here's my problem. Hooked up and truck hitch in lowest setting, I have 7 1/2" gap between box rail and nose cone. At tailgate, the gap is 6". Under normal circumstances, no problem per se. But I have a tonneau cover on truck and it's rails stick up 1-1 1/2" above top of box rails. If both rigs get to "wobbling" good chance back end of truck could pop a hole in underside of 5er.

Both front and rear spring shackle brackets have 3 holes in them (springs currently mounted in top hole closest to frame). Center shackle/rocker box bracket has 2 holes and currently in top hole (again closest to frame if you will). Equa-Flex suspension installed. My thinking is to raise the rear of trailer by lowering it 1 hole on all 6 shackles.

Spoke w/ dealer who wasn't sure and advised to speak w/ Cedar Creek to see if it would fall within their tolerances if done. CC said I should try to accomplish the gap issue via hitches only and to talk w/ axle mfr ( in my case, Lippert). So call Lippert and they cannot tell me what to do vis liability concerns if I do it and something goes wrong. Getting more stumped at this point.

Call Ford dealer up to pick their brains about this and if other have had same issues. They knew of one person who did but couldn't recall what the solution was other than possibly switching out the spring spacers to smaller ones. I could see where this would "lower" rear end of truck (I think) and thus eliminate or increase the tailgate gap and 5er should ride level. They are to look into it (thru Ford???) and get back to me.

Truck has 18" tires. Would there be any problems by lowering the susp 1 hole? Is that what the holes in brackets are for OR just generic brackets? What have others done?

Next trip not for a few weeks.

Thank you in advance
2017 F350 DRW XLT, CC, 4x4, 6.7
2018 Big Country 3560 SS
"The best part of RVing and Snowmobiling is spending time with family and friends"
"Catin' in the Winter"
21 REPLIES 21

bushman512003
Explorer
Explorer
went to a 4"hand made spring block then the trailer was a great fit to the new Dodge 4x4 CTD I went to the spring shop...They had every thing to work with and not a look and try operation...good work done right And I was happy happy happy...
Keystone 5er Model Cougar 276 RLS ,and all the toys.Enjoying camping,friends, fire. LOL. life is good..John,Jeannette,..From Canada the Queen's Country..Member of IRV2.Com.:B The Bushman EH!
:B

rodwood1
Explorer
Explorer
The trucks are getting taller, my 2007 Komfort and my 2015 2500 HD has the same Issue I set the leaf springs to the lowest available holes witch helped a lot raising my 5th about 3 inches but I'm still a couple inches low in the back. lowering my truck is not an option. unless there are other options Ill have to live with this?

Sport45
Explorer
Explorer
ACZL wrote:
Also in process of all this, I broke a stud off 1 hub. Dealer didn't have any and neither did another. Ended up at NAPA for one along w/ a new lug nut which I HAVE to replace before next w/e too.

So I'll report back sometime after the 21st.


Good deal on the lift work.

How'd you break the stud? If they've been over torqued (cheater on the wrench and give it all ya got tight) the rest of the studs may not be too far behind.
โ€™19 F350 SRW CCLB PSD Fx4
'00 F250, CC SWB 4x2, V-10 3.73LS. (sold)
'83 F100 SWB 4x2, 302 AOD 3.55. (parked)
'05 GMC Envoy 4x2 4.2 3.73L.
'12 Edge 2.0 Ecoboost
'15 Cherokee Trailhawk

ACZL
Explorer
Explorer
Well I FINALLY was able to lower the susp 1 hole at all 6 points. Won't know till next weekend how the gap is. Can tell though that the frame right near tires is higher as I had to jack up fair amount more to put tires back on. Axles are DEFINITELY lower as my soda tummy had a hard time schooching under it afterwards.

Also in process of all this, I broke a stud off 1 hub. Dealer didn't have any and neither did another. Ended up at NAPA for one along w/ a new lug nut which I HAVE to replace before next w/e too.

So I'll report back sometime after the 21st.
2017 F350 DRW XLT, CC, 4x4, 6.7
2018 Big Country 3560 SS
"The best part of RVing and Snowmobiling is spending time with family and friends"
"Catin' in the Winter"

Beaker
Explorer
Explorer
I spoke w/ Lippert and seems they changed things up. While they still have and sell the wet bolt kit, they now offer a Never-Fail bushing which is supposed to be vastly superior to the bronze bushing used w/ the wet bolt kit. The Never- Fail bushings are NOT compatible w/ the wet bolt kit and not sure which bolts would be used with them. If one buys a new Equa-Flex, the Never-Fails come std w/ it. Bronze bushings NOT sold separately! I cannot see buying 2 new Equa-Flexes just to get the new bushings. How long do the bronze ones last? Has to be much better then the plastic ones from factory.


I had mine lifted 2 years ago. At the time the dealer tried to get Lippert to replace the Equa-Flex because they were cracked, but I had to pay for them as Lippert said they did not use Equa-Flex on the that model at that time. Nice little Equa-Flex logo on the trailer. I got the wet bolt with the Never-Fail bushings.

They must keep changing things around over there.
2008 Silverado 2500HD Duramax
2010 Cruiser 26RK

Allworth
Explorer II
Explorer II
And just what does that have to do with the OP's nose-up trailer?

If you want to bash Lipert, start your own thread!
Formerly posting as "littleblackdog"
Martha, Allen, & Blackjack
2006 Chevy 3500 D/A LB SRW, RVND 7710
Previously: 2008 Titanium 30E35SA. Currently no trailer due to age & mobility problems. Very sad!
"Real Jeeps have round headlights"

shadoow
Explorer
Explorer
here's a lippert never-lube bearing (after we put the fire out):





laknox
Nomad
Nomad
ACZL wrote:
**********UPDATE**********

I spoke w/ Lippert and seems they changed things up. While they still have and sell the wet bolt kit, they now offer a Never-Fail bushing which is supposed to be vastly superior to the bronze bushing used w/ the wet bolt kit. The Never- Fail bushings are NOT compatible w/ the wet bolt kit and not sure which bolts would be used with them. If one buys a new Equa-Flex, the Never-Fails come std w/ it. Bronze bushings NOT sold separately! I cannot see buying 2 new Equa-Flexes just to get the new bushings. How long do the bronze ones last? Has to be much better then the plastic ones from factory.

Was also told that in what I want to do, I have to "tap" (hammer) out the wet bolt from shackles due to the serrated edges on then. Can re-use them. Has anyone ever taken out the wet bolts? How hard did they come out? Seems to me if I recall right, they were a stinker going in and IMO probly have to grind them off in order to get them out.


"Never-Fail" is probably equivalent to the "NevRLube" bearings, that you still have to re-pack. I think I'd stick to a standard wet bolt kit, but that's just me.

I've replace a few wheel studs, that have splines below the head, and we'd simply leave the nut threaded on the end of the stud, and use that to drive the stud out, provided we didn't have a press handy. You could do the same and save the old bolts in your just-in-case box.

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

ACZL
Explorer
Explorer
**********UPDATE**********

I spoke w/ Lippert and seems they changed things up. While they still have and sell the wet bolt kit, they now offer a Never-Fail bushing which is supposed to be vastly superior to the bronze bushing used w/ the wet bolt kit. The Never- Fail bushings are NOT compatible w/ the wet bolt kit and not sure which bolts would be used with them. If one buys a new Equa-Flex, the Never-Fails come std w/ it. Bronze bushings NOT sold separately! I cannot see buying 2 new Equa-Flexes just to get the new bushings. How long do the bronze ones last? Has to be much better then the plastic ones from factory.

Was also told that in what I want to do, I have to "tap" (hammer) out the wet bolt from shackles due to the serrated edges on then. Can re-use them. Has anyone ever taken out the wet bolts? How hard did they come out? Seems to me if I recall right, they were a stinker going in and IMO probly have to grind them off in order to get them out.
2017 F350 DRW XLT, CC, 4x4, 6.7
2018 Big Country 3560 SS
"The best part of RVing and Snowmobiling is spending time with family and friends"
"Catin' in the Winter"

motorcycle_jack
Explorer II
Explorer II
The engineers at Cedar Creek know this: Not all trucks, and how they are set up, result in the same ground to 5th wheel plate height set up. Thus they made two places to help achieve level - first the 5th wheel hitch PIN attachment point has multiple holes to move the hitch PIN up and down. Second, the suspension has multiple shackle holes to move the 5th wheel up and down. Use the shackle holes to move the back of the 5th wheel higher. If that puts the trailer nose lower then use the hitch mount to move it back up by putting the pin box in the next lower holes. The hitch itself in the truck can also be raised and lowered to fine tune the level point.
John
"Motorcycle Jack"
Life time Good Sam Member
Blog: My RV
5th Wheel Blog

Full timing isn't "always camping". It's a different life style living in an RV.

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
ACZL wrote:
laknox---Good idea. Thanks. Currently have wet bolts in it, but a good suggestion. Thanks again.


No problemo! ๐Ÿ™‚

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

ACZL
Explorer
Explorer
laknox---Good idea. Thanks. Currently have wet bolts in it, but a good suggestion. Thanks again.
2017 F350 DRW XLT, CC, 4x4, 6.7
2018 Big Country 3560 SS
"The best part of RVing and Snowmobiling is spending time with family and friends"
"Catin' in the Winter"

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
blofgren wrote:
I have the same problem with our new to us Corsair. The trailer also has the adjustable spring shackles and the springs are currently in the top position. I am planning on having them moved to the lowest position which should gain approximately 3". I was going to do it myself but the dealer has quoted me 1.6 hours labor to do the work so I think I will have them do it. Now just to find time to get it in to the dealer.

If you do it yourself, please ensure that you are indeed using jack stands of adequate capacity and/or beefy blocking. This is a dangerous job on a large trailer.


Put a wet bolt kit in, while they're doing this.

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
ACZL wrote:
rhagfo wrote:
It would be great to have a picture of the rig hooked up! Is TV tail high the 5er nose high level????


Thanks for the replies folks.

Not able to do pics at the moment due to way everything is parked (not level enough for good pic--camper is on level ground but truck would be at slight downward angle on driveway), but yes the front of 5er is nose high hence the 7"+ gap and 6" gap at tailgate.

Am thinking it would probly be best like some replies have said to just lower F/R 1 hole and put rocker bolts down in lower hole as well. Just have to contact bolt place to see if they carry serrated nuts for the wet bolts. If not, have to get 'em from Lippert. Plus secure some jackstands from work and about a good portion of a Saturday.


Even if you have wet bolts already, it might be more expedient to just get a new wet bolt kit and replace =everything= with new components. They're not that expensive.

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member