Why tow level ??? -- Is it important -- How to acheive

You could be overloading the rear axle and tires is the main reason.

Changed (are to could be). No way to know for sure without scales. Some axles and tires are marginal to begin with.

IMO your over thinking a problem that doesn't exist.

You say...."but a quick estimate is that by towing nose-high by a foot only transfers about 100 lbs from the pin to the wheels".
What wheels are you referring to ?

JIMNLIN wrote:
IMO your over thinking a problem that doesn't exist.

You say...."but a quick estimate is that by towing nose-high by a foot only transfers about 100 lbs from the pin to the wheels".
What wheels are you referring to ?

The 5er wheels.

The biggest thing about a level trailer when towing is keeping the trailers leaf spring suspension level. Some mistakenly think the trailer suspension equalizer bar evens the load which it doesn't 100 percent.
Most equipment trailer mfg keep the deck level with the bottom of the frame at the forward and aft spring hanger mounts. This way when dot weighs us we know the trailers axles/tires are carrying equal loads.
A nose high trailer can place more load on the trailers last axle....and take weight from the front axle. This can cause the front axle(s) brakes to flat spot the tires.
Also the trailer axle suspension works best when level.
Triaxle trailers need closer attention to being level when on the road.
And of course we know a nose high or low condition can cause chunking issues with the tow vehicle.

Torsion axles ??
Non of my rv trailers have never had them and I wouldn't have them on any of my work trailers. Others may have some experience with them.

Pin/GN ball weight changes little to non with a out of level trailer....at least on my flatdeck trailers when loading and weighing for a balanced load. I doubt rv trailers are different
Jim

You would never know the rear RV axle has 1,400# more scale weight than the front axle by this pic. It really does matter to tow as level as possible.

Nose-up transfers a lot of weight from front axle to rear axle, causing higher stress on the rear axle bearings and tires.
Besides flipping the axle and adjusting the hitch height, other options are different size of trailer wheels, and on my 5er, it looks like the extended king pin assembly can be adjusted up or down somewhat.

I agree, you put added stress on the rear axle tires, springs thus creating a possible major problem down the road ... noise high As well adds some wind resistance thus fuel mileage goes down :(

You can adjust your pin box and also your 5th wheel to get your trailer level ...

Above all THINK SAFETY for your family and others on the road, a little now goes a long way in the end

Safe travels

Cummins12V98 wrote:
You would never know the rear RV axle has 1,400# more scale weight than the front axle by this pic. It really does matter to tow as level as possible.

I do not know, but may I suggest the the difference in the load of the two axles is due to loading not levelness. Have you check the scales with different degree of level??

I am not "bad mouthing" you, I am looking for information from someone that has weighed the trailer under different conditions. The trailer/truck combination I am looking to purchase will be difficult to get level and maintain the 6" bed rail clearance.

In addition to the above posters, when you pull into a rest stop or are just staying in a campsite for the night and don't want to unhook from the tow vehicle, it's much more pleasant to be level.

I ran a 15 k /36 ft fiver for thousands of miles 5/6 inches nose high,pulled good, but right rear tire always ran hot,levelled it out same tire ran cool like the others.