WW Repairs

[dedmiston]

As just about all of us have read here, certain models of WW trailers have defects that have resulted in a number of different problems. To one degree or another, this subject has come up on this forum and most of the posts have eventually been locked and/or deleted. The forum administration has decided to make a one-time exception and allow this thread in order to help our forum members get informed and hopefully get their trailers repaired.

IMPORTANT GROUND RULES:

• This thread is a one-off exception to the following forum rule:

  Posts are not allowed in which a local or state consumer action board and/or legal counsel is/have been involved. This includes posts related to future, ongoing or past lawsuits.

  This exception applies to this one thread only. This rule will continue to be enforced in other threads. So keep the WW class action discussion in this thread, or your posts will be deleted.
  
  
• The following rule will still be enforced:

  You may post about problems you have with a product or organization, however the use of the forums to repeatedly attack them is strictly forbidden.

  In other words, no bashing allowed. This thread is for disseminating information, not venting your spleen. Flaming, trolling, bashing, etc. will not be permitted.
  
  
• Only general discussion of these problems and repairs are allowed. Specific questions about individual circumstances are not allowed ("my XYZ is bent, does this situation apply to me?").
  
  
• We all have brains. Please use them. Verify what you read here. I am wrong all the time. Please don't rely on me for any decisions you may choose to make. If you make a bad call, don't blame me, please.
  
  
• For the sake of full disclosure, I own a 2005 FS2600 and am having trouble with my trailer. I consider myself fairly objective, but that doesn't mean I don't ever have biases. In some recent cases where I could not be objective, I defered to Y-Guy and Admin to take the wheel. In this thread I will tell you what I've done and what my experiences have been.

Now, with that out of the way...

As most of you know, there has been a class action suit and Weekend Warrior is settling with the class. Here's a link to the Settlement Agreement: http://www.trailersettlement.com/sa.pdf. I won't go into the details of the settlement, because I don't want to be in the position of interpreting it or giving any legal clarification or advice. So if you're having trouble with your trailer, this is one possible avenue. Contact (866)459-6003 or visit www.trailersettlement.com for information about the class action settlement. They can tell you whether you qualify and where to go from there.

That's one option.

Without going into too many details, I discovered some problems with my trailer. After seeing pictures of some that were worse than mine, I decided I'd better do something before it got worse. However, I'm not a fan of class action suits. I've received too many checks for $10 in the mail to cover one class action or another. I didn't want to take the chance of having my trailer only partially fixed or having to personally pay a bunch of money for only half a fix. So I contacted Weekend Warrior directly and told them about my problems. Couldn't hurt, right?

Know what they said? "Let's make an appointment for you to bring it in and we'll fix it." :E

So yesterday I took my trailer down to beautiful Perris and dropped it off. I asked about the cost, and my service writer said they'd FIX IT. I watched him write up his sheet and he only filled in prices for the extra items I requested (fair 'nuf). Being the selfish guy I am, I took this bit of good news and high tailed it out of there counting myself a very lucky man. Sure, it would have been better if it hadn't broken in the first place. But the past can't be changed. I just want mine fixed.

After feeling fairly secure that I had MINE taken care of, I wanted to find out if I had just personally hit the jackpot or if this was the WW policy in these cases. So I contacted someone higher up at WW to find out if other people in this same situation could expect the same treatment. Here's what I was told:

Any customer who currently has an issue, we are standing behind [them]. If they have an issue that has not been resolved, we are directing them to contact us here, locally, or the dealership in their area.

We are standing behind our product. By that, I mean we are fixing anything that needs to be fixed as long as there are no apparent signs of abuse. If the consumer is, however, looking for any type of monetary compensation then we cannot directly assist them. They would then need to contact the (866)459-6003 number or visit www.trailersettlement.com.

There's your other option.

If you choose to contact Weekend Warrior directly for repairs, call (909)579-0353. The operator in Upland routes the calls to the appropriate repair facility in Perris (Superlite or Normal).

[Racorman]

dedmiston wrote:

Racorman wrote:
Did anyone attend the hearing yesterday? Any news?

Let me guess, as soon as you retired you threw away your calendar? :B

That explains why you're always a week or so early for our trips; you give yourself a wide margin so you won't miss it. Clever.

Dave..... Nope, I wrote this message after cocktail hour :R

[Nabber86]

My questons are, what happened to the 10-15% formula? How can I achieve 40/60 since where I put the load affects the tongue weight, and without that I can't think of a reference to balance the trailer fore and aft of the axle center line.

If properly loaded according to the 60/40 rule, you should get 10% to 15% of the trailer weight on the tongue. That is, if the trailer was manufactured correctly.

[dedmiston]

Racorman wrote:
Did anyone attend the hearing yesterday? Any news?

The Court will hold a Fairness Hearing in this case (Weekend Warrior Trailer Cases, Judicial Council Coordination Proceeding No. 4455) on

February

22, 2008 at 10:00 a.m. to consider whether to approve the settlement and a request by the attorneys representing the Class for fees and costs of up to $1.7 million. Also at the hearing, the Defendants will ask for a Court order saying they can't be joined into lawsuits against others for these claims.

Let me guess, as soon as you retired you threw away your calendar? :B

That explains why you're always a week or so early for our trips; you give yourself a wide margin so you won't miss it. Clever.

[Racorman]

Did anyone attend the hearing yesterday? Any news?

The Court will hold a Fairness Hearing in this case (Weekend Warrior Trailer Cases, Judicial Council Coordination Proceeding No. 4455) on February 22, 2008 at 10:00 a.m. to consider whether to approve the settlement and a request by the attorneys representing the Class for fees and costs of up to $1.7 million. Also at the hearing, the Defendants will ask for a Court order saying they can't be joined into lawsuits against others for these claims.

[Rineholio]

Excellent point! I grease my pivot points regularly, but I've never really thought out how things are attached.

It's 14 degrees outside with some snow, but I'm going to climb under tomorrow and check it out. I'm waiting to take it to the weigh station until I can dewinterize a little. We're full-timing until we buy a house. I'll let you know what I find.

I'm going to hit the weigh station again as soon as the snow melts and it gets above freezing on a regular basis. We're full-timing until we buy a hosue.

I didn't catch if you had twin axles or triple axles. I have three. Maybe they're different?

I hear you about the brakes and being level. My trailer towed beautifully when it was new and straight.

I'll try to recheck the weights soon. If the axles don't interact spring wise, they should all be close. Maybe I just recorded it wrong.

Jeff

[callen06]

Rineholio - Sorry to hear about your problems but I dont understand how your axle weights are different. Are each of your axles mounted independently to the frame?
The leaf springs on mine are connected in the middle with a pivot. I havent weighed each axle independently but I think with this setup the axles should be weighted the same even if the trailer is tilted some.

Our Boy Scout trailer had the torsion type axles mounted independently to the frame and also had 4 wheel brakes. It was very critical on it to have the trailer level. You really noticed a problem if it wasnt when you used the brakes. If you had the brakes set to where they would help stop ya and the trailer wasnt level the light axle would lock up very easy. I wouldnt own another trailer with tandem torsion axles again.

[missjuleelynn]

Hello Jeff, I agree with you completly, our concerns at this time are in relation to the resale value. our WW is a FS2600 2002 tounge trailer `and we are currently in the market to move to a 5th wheel, we are obligated to inform the potential buyers of WW flaws and the obvious damage to the trailer. In additon, when we purchased the trailer, it was marketed to us as the "best in the industry" and can by far handle the equipment we have without any problems. Sooooo, now here we are with a dangerously insufficient way to haul our toys, along with putting anything in the damaged trailer and driving down the road. I will be contacting a lawyer locally.

[Rineholio]

More thoughts on loading and tires. I also included info that can be used if you protest the settlement, deal with WW, or go it with a private attorney.

1. Trailers half to have relatively equal weight on all axles, or loads on one may be excessive and result in failure. Especially the tires.

2. If I level my trailer on flat ground, and there is equal weight on all axles, my trailer is properly loaded-as long as it's not over max gross weight. 40/60, I don't know. This why the 15%ish tongue weight will work. Individual trailers may have to be adjusted up or down a little for maximum stability.


3. The last time I was on the weigh scale, I grossed exactly 12,000lbs., with 1550lbs on the tongue. That's 13% of gross. However, my front axle was carrying much more weight than the rear and my trailer body was tilting down just a little because I had upgraded to heavier E-rated tires, which were slightly taller than the 15 inch stock ones (1 inch in diameter, 1/2" taller). Hitch was still set at the old tire height. I couldn't get the axles weighted evenly unless I raised the trailer to a very high nose up attitude. Then the tongue was light. I shifted as much weight forward as I could, but couldn't make it stable.

I upgraded my original tires because they disintegrated at about 8000 miles. I thought the new tires and wheels would fix the stability problem. Wrong. My trailer that towed like an arrow when new is still not safe to tow above 50-60mph depending on wind, trucks... It did improve with the new tires, but is still unstable to tow, and as stated, I can't adjust it out. Even though the trailer hasn't physically failed, it is still unsafe because of the stability issue. I'm not going 2400 miles to let the Perris facility install what Raphael called a gusset when he talked to me. Plus the drive would would be risky, and would probably ruin the tires.

Reflecting on this, my tiny little brain came up with some thoughts.

1. My axle center line may not be correct.

2. The axles are installed so that when the trailer is level, the axles are actually spring loaded to the front, overloading the front axle and making the rear light.

3. Something to do with a bent frame. I know the tongue bends up from the frame rail they curved to make the triangle. I checked it with a bubble guage. It was maxed. Plus you can see it. I should have figured it out before the class action paperwork tipped me off. I had already begun to shorten the chain on my weight distribution bars in an effort to transfer weight. That should have set off warning bells, but I just figured the bars were losing their strength. Wrong.

4. Loading is not correct due to one or more of the above.


My thoughts.

*** The tongue is bent upwards This increases the load on the front axles when the trailer body is set level. It makes the weight distribution bars less effective. Deformation also makes the frame even weaker.

*** Had my tongue not been bent, the trailer body would have been tilted up instead of being level, which would have shifted the load towards the rear axle, helping to balance the trailer, but also reducing my tongue weight. Remember the seesaw guy?

I experimented with loads at the weigh station when it was new. Very hard to get down to 11%. Need empty tanks, and really abusive rear loading. It needs more to tow properly. I don't think you could even achieve that with any kind of typical loading.

With a straight tongue, its weight would have been close to 11%, as the balance would have been shifted aft, partially unloading the tongue. Remember the guy moving around on the seesaw?

Hopefully when the tongue is straight, the axle loads will be equal when the trailer is level. If not, I believe it's because the springs supporting the suspension are installed in a tilted fashion that loads the front axles more than the rear. Not good.

If the trailer is level and the axles weighted correctly, I can change tongue weight without changinging the axle balance. The hitch will pick up or lose the extra weight, and the now functioning weight distribution bars will adjust the axle loading of the truck accordingly.

Now the trailer can be adjusted to tow well, regardless of weight (below max gross). All that needs to be done is to set the hitch so the trailer is level and adjust the tongue weight until it tows straight and true.

If I add more weight, I lower the hitch a little and adjust tongue weight. If I decrease my weight, it's the opposite.

Tire problems:

Tire load rating is based on the number of plies and the heat a tire can stand before the plies delaminate. This can happen without any visual clues. That's how a blowout can occur even when the tire appears new. The tire probably wasn't defective. It was just insufficient for the heat it generated.

Tire manufacturers can use better construction/materials, or put a speed restriction on the tire to control the heat. Higher speeds=higher heat. Check out a NASCAR race and listen to tire comments.

Many trailer tires have an ST right behind the size (my stock WW tires, for example.) That limits them to 65mph which limits the heat the tire can be subjected to.

From all my research I've reached the opinion that an ST rated tire is cheaply built-seriously. Either less plies or lessor construction materials. Tires without the ST have to be safe at speeds over 100mph. In other words, they can handle more heat, or don't get as hot. It's federal law. I believe they do it to provide a safety margin for drivers traveling at regular speeds.

I'm OK with 65 if it's a bias ply trailer tire. The bias design makes them run hotter, and there is only so much you can do to support a load and shed heat, while still maintaining an acceptable cost for those. Again, too much heat makes tires fail, even racing tires.

IMHO, Weekend Warrior used tire and wheel combos that were inadequate for real life. They did not provide enough margin of safety to adequately account for hot desert freeway driving, high national speed limits, and trailer loading that isn't perfect, but is within limits. If an axle gets weighted so that tires are near their load limit, those tires will run hotter.

Remember. If you have enough plies to handle the load, and they're correctly built, then only excess temperature will cause them to delaminate (or they are too many years old and the laminating material is failing). Conditions that generate extra heat have to be taken into consideration. I'm sure the tires were rated at some standard temperature, and not worst case. Cheaper tires at same rating equals more margin of profit.

Your engine will do the same thing. If the cooling system can't handle the heat, it will boil over. Keep driving and you'll destroy your engine in short time.

I replaced my stock D rated 15" wheels and tires with 16" wheels and E-rated Michelin Ribs. They have ten plies, several steel belted, at least one of which is in the sidewall. They're rated for the over 100mph speed. I'm sick of changing flats on crowded freeways. I'm lucky I haven't crashed or been been hit by a car.

I researched tires and found nothing in 15" that is E-rated. Even if I had, I doubt the wheels on my trailer are rated for 80psi. That's right. Not all rims will safely hold 80psi. I found that out when I was talking to a local tire guy.

I urge all WW owners to do the following. Write a settlement protest letter to the class action lawsuit group about these concerns. I don't think it matters whether or not you have joined the suit. We need compensation to step up to new rims and tires instead of just $100 each for every tire that blew out, up to a maximum of six.

Some of you might only be able to step from a C to a D rating because larger sizes won't fit. Wasn't a factor on mine. I find it hard to believe that all seven of my tires failed almost simultaneously. There has to be a problem.

The Tire Rack has tons of information on this topic if you want to research.

There is also a fair settlement hearing in Orange county on Feb 22. If you can make it, please relate this and whatever else you've got.

I talked to one of the lawyers in the suit. He was very smart, but did not know much about trailering. I even helped explain trailer basics, pointed him to his owner's manual, talked about weight ratings... because he wanted to start towing behind his mid-sized SUV. It's the first time for him. If we don't educate the lawyers, they can't help. Right now, settlement payments can be changed.

I also think we should be given a lifetime transferable warranty on the fix if it fails from regular use. Without it our trailers will lose a lot of resale value, and be much harder to sell. Many wouldn't even call to check it out.

If you have more info we can use, please post, and if I made some mistakes, feel free to point them out. I will not be offended. This forum is for proper discourse of ideas, whether or not we agree with each other. I may have stated an opinion as fact, or a fact as an opinion. I'm not the world's best writer.

By the way, sorry for all the errors in the last post. I had just jammed some fingers and things weren't going well on the keyboard.

Jeff

[Rineholio]

FYI

When I contacted Weekend Warrior about fixing my trailer, transport to Perris, and compensation for the heavier rated tires I purchased, they had Raphael call me back. He said I could bring it in (2400 miles round trip)and get it fixed, or join the law suit. That was it. No tranportation or anything else. He was not courteous on the phone, and made zero effort to help me. Regarding what they did to repair it he replied "We add a gusset." No frame straightening. Just some reinforcement. If you get him, I suggest asking for his boss and working up the chain until you find somebody who might help.

I talked with a class action lawyer and he said that WW is training "techs" from their other dealers to put on the prophelatic fix, so for what it's worth, you might be able to find a closer place to get it fixed.

The lawyer also told me that unless you upgraded to a higher rated tire, such as D to E, that there would be no compensation. If you do receive compensation (for up to six tires) you get $100 bucks a piece. According to him, I'm entitled to the frame fix, $600 bucks for tires, and cosmetic repair if caused by the bending frame. By the way, my new WW weight information recommended the same rated tires the trailer was equipped with when I picked it up.

To my knowledge, there are no higer rated 15" tires than D. I perused tirerack and every other tire place I could. No joy. Mine disintegrated early on, and I replaced them with 16" rims and Michelin E rated Ribs. Not cheap, but I don't have tread flying all over the place either.

My tongue is bent upwards, and I think the frame is twisted a little. When new it towed straight and true. Now it sways like a willow in the wind.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Please comment on this:

Today I received a new unladen vehicle weight for my FS 3000 showing it is 1000lbs heavier than originally stated. It sucks, but I already knew that because I weigh mine on a weigh station periodically.


The other item concerning weight was their new trailer loading requirement

I quote: "PLACE 60% OF LOAD FORWARD OF AXLE CENTER LINE
Failure to distribute load properly will result
in an unstable towing condition."

I can't see how this determines toungue weight. Unless you know the stations where the weight is distributed in the front and back, and can adjust weight to get it evenly spread out the toungue weight will vary. I don't know how much.

How I think I understand it.

Imagine two kids on a seesaw with a pivot (axle center line) in the middle. One kid weighs 40lbs, the other weighs 60lbs. Add them together, and we get lucky and find that 100lbs equals 100% of our weight. The 40lb kid is the rear of the trailer, the 60lb kid is the front.

Easy concept now: Think of that old wooden seesaw as a Weekend Warrior trailer, and the kids as the 40/60 load. Also see that seesaw as having a pivot point which makes the heavy kid's side longer, and the lighter kid's side shorter. This is like moving your center line axle more towards the rear of the trailer. That makes the heavier kid appear even heavier because the longer board gives him added leverage. Trailers have to be this way to be towable, and so that they don't flip backwards after you unhitch and walk to the rear.

Problem:

Think what happens if the heavier kid moves around. The end of the board is the tongue of the trailer, and the pivot is the center line axle. Even though he weighs the same 60lb, he changes the tongue weight. As he moves towards the pivot point, the tongue gets lighter. As he moves toward the "front," the tongue load increases. Again, the percentage of load in the front didn't change. Just its location.

My questons are, what happened to the 10-15% formula? How can I achieve 40/60 since where I put the load affects the tounge weight, and without that I can't think of a reference to balance the trailer fore and aft of the axle center line.

If anyone can explain this, please do. Weekend Warrior just won't help me.

If anyone has a good lawyer in California and is initiating an individual lawsuit, please pm me. Actually I'd settle for a Weekend Warrior settlement if they'd let me fix whatever I found wrong locally and compensate me fairly for the tires and wheels I had to replacde.

Right now my trailer tows terribly, and has some problems resulting from the frame bending. I'm going to get it surveyed, repairs estimated, and go to court myself unless Weekend Warrior can come up with a solution I'll accept. $600 for tires and a "gusset" doesn't do it for me.

Jeff

P.S. Sorry if this post is disorganized. I'm beat.

[amwesterlin]

First I am not trying to flame anyone. I just want to make sure I understand your post completely.

1bigtug wrote:
I based my purchase of this maker/model and size by the INFORMATION STICKER on the side - giving the DRY/EMPTY weight - and MAX weight 13000 lbs - I read in Trailerlife's towing guide that a 2005 Excursion is rated to tow a MAX of 11,000 pounds. Are you saying that you knew the trailer had a max weight of 13000 and you based your purchase with the knowledge that the trailer could be 2000 pounds more than Ford allowed?

Checked mine this morning 5897lbs - However I did receive in the mail on Saturday from WW a new sticker to put on our trailer with the new weight info 7135 (at difference of 1238 lbs). This makes since as we all know WW was low in their estimates before.

I've been towing it with a Ford Excursion 2WD Limited Edition - with the V10 (Banks Power Pack Kit, 4" Pro Comp Lift, Air Banks, Add-a-Leaf and 1 5/8 Sway Bar) - The rear end has been replaced 3 times (4:30s) by Ford since I've been towing this trailer - the transmission once! After hearing about the issues with the 26', 28' & 30' - This all made sense now - The receiver hitch on my Excursion - the PIN Hole is oval now - I've been told that my hitch is not rated to tow this trailer (Weight) - I've not tow this unit since Feb 07 - and currently have it parked and covered! This is where i become confused. We are missing important information. How much does your trailer really weigh? Is it more than the 11000 that Ford allows? Is it more than the 13000 WW allows? If it is more than Ford allows, is that WW's issue or us as owners knowing what we tow?

Given the above information - for those who have been dealing with issues on their trailer - who's going to cover the replacement receiver hitch that I'm going to need before I can tow again - and also possibly the hitch itself - as my load bars are only 1200lbs rated - and I'm running a single anti-sway stabilizer? Again, not to flame on, but we are missing some information. Who set up your system? The dealer or you? Was the system "built up" for the gross trailer rating? Was the unit weighed to check for proper equipment useage? An under rated hitch would cause the issues you listed. Is that a WW issue or a owner issue? If you feel that you were mis-informed, per the settlement, fill out a claim form and seek reimbursement.

I can't even trailer it down to WW for repairs at this time - the other concern is that I'm over my allowable tow weight for my class drivers license in Calif - per the California Highway Patrol. This law is easy to comply with and helps everyone travel safer. Go study hard, take the written test, and then the driving test. Then you will be ready and legal!

Any recommendations or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! as I'm happy with the product - just frustrated with my current situation on my tow vehicle.

[missjuleelynn]

Wow are we confused, we have a 2002 WW FS2600. we recieved the new sticker for the modified UVW weight, but we can't locate the former UVW weight. only the GVWR (11,000lbs).... as things have been with our WW, we have had 3 tire blow-outs, one resulting in the rubber flying across the wheel well and up the side of the RV causing damage to the siding. The 15" wheel had a faulty weld and caused a slow leak and had to be replaced. a Broken and bent tow hitch (10,000 lbs) the front of the RV bowing so badly the linolium in the galley area hovering off the floor when towed. The back bunk bed has fallen off its hinges while being towed (faulty strap) which crash landed on our bikes and the fold up bench seats causing them to plummet to the floor... We clean, detail and meticulaslly maintain our RV, so abuse and neglect is not an issue. now with this said..... our equipment is 3 banshee quads, (max 350 lbs each) riding gear/clothing/bedding.... tops 300 pounds, tools, lawnchairs, cooking utensils. (max 500 lbs)one of the banshees goes in the bed of the F250 4X4 ford super duty. no food, no water, no onboard fuel, no firewood etc...... we get all of that after we have arrived at our destination.(even the ice chests arrive empty) other campers that we go with haul much much much more weight than we do.(various makes of toy haulers)...with no problems whatsoever
so.... not only it the question is what was the original UVW for this particular model?, now what happens when we go to sell our RV? we recently puchased a sand rail and according to all of the "math" we should be able to haul it along with 2 of the bikes. "YIKES". Personally my only complaint about the WW is the lack of counter space, but as you can imagine, this is a very serious situation that we have been placed in as a consumer and fellow traveler on the road. WE have replaced all of our tires with "D" rated tires, checked the remaining 3 wheels for stress points and have since purchased a new towing system which includes sway bars and air bags. Is anyone else having these problems or can make sense of the "weight" that WW is claiming that can be put into our RV?

[1bigtug]

I'm a owner of a 2005 FS30 Weekend Warrior (Purchased new in Jan 2005 in Irvine,Calif) - Although I'm overall happy with the product and have not experienced any of the MAJOR problems with my yet - I based my purchase of this maker/model and size by the INFORMATION STICKER on the side - giving the DRY/EMPTY weight - and MAX weight 13000 lbs - Checked mine this morning 5897lbs - However I did receive in the mail on Saturday from WW a new sticker to put on our trailer with the new weight info 7135 (at difference of 1238 lbs).

I've been towing it with a Ford Excursion 2WD Limited Edition - with the V10 (Banks Power Pack Kit, 4" Pro Comp Lift, Air Banks, Add-a-Leaf and 1 5/8 Sway Bar) - The rear end has been replaced 3 times (4:30s) by Ford since I've been towing this trailer - the transmission once! After hearing about the issues with the 26', 28' & 30' - This all made sense now - The receiver hitch on my Excursion - the PIN Hole is oval now - I've been told that my hitch is not rated to tow this trailer (Weight) - I've not tow this unit since Feb 07 - and currently have it parked and covered!

Given the above information - for those who have been dealing with issues on their trailer - who's going to cover the replacement receiver hitch that I'm going to need before I can tow again - and also possibly the hitch itself - as my load bars are only 1200lbs rated - and I'm running a single anti-sway stabilizer?

I can't even trailer it down to WW for repairs at this time - the other concern is that I'm over my allowable tow weight for my class drivers license in Calif - per the California Highway Patrol.

Any recommendations or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! as I'm happy with the product - just frustrated with my current situation on my tow vehicle.

[dedmiston]

DISCLAIMER: I'm not offering any advice and the following facts may or may not be correct. Please verify this for yourself.

It's my understanding that today is the deadline for objecting to the WW settlement AND for excluding yourself from the settlement (i.e. opting out).

I called the settlement hotline (866-459-6003) today. The recording said that any objections or exclusions must be received or postmarked by today (1/18). These should be mailed to:

Weekend Warrior Trailer Settlement
Independent Claims Administrator
PO Box 9175
Dublin, OH 43017

Include your name, address, phone, and VIN.

[kellymegtug]

Posted By: FarmerDill on 01/04/08 10:41am
.....
"" I also have some of electrical problems as well. The LP dectector sometimes beeps randomly- I have checked with a seperate detector and found no trace of fumes/gas. And once in a while, if I flip the switches for the lights, inside or out, the LP monitor will also churp. The monitor above the sink dosen't work correctly. At time it reads that the batteries are fully charged only to find out that they're DIS-charged to point that I have to jump em' to start the generator. What bothers me the most is that I can't pin-point the problem. And it dosen't always accur; It's random.""

I have a FK1900 and found that if my batteries get too low things start beeping. And I also found out that it takes a long time (hours) to charge the batteries using the generator. So I bought a charger that I hook up tot he battery when I run the generator. Never have that problem now.

[sc3283]

FSC2800 is not included in frame repair situation....I finally got clarification on that today. It is included in the tow vehicle, exploded tire situation though.