WW Repairs

[dedmiston]

As just about all of us have read here, certain models of WW trailers have defects that have resulted in a number of different problems. To one degree or another, this subject has come up on this forum and most of the posts have eventually been locked and/or deleted. The forum administration has decided to make a one-time exception and allow this thread in order to help our forum members get informed and hopefully get their trailers repaired.

IMPORTANT GROUND RULES:

• This thread is a one-off exception to the following forum rule:

  Posts are not allowed in which a local or state consumer action board and/or legal counsel is/have been involved. This includes posts related to future, ongoing or past lawsuits.

  This exception applies to this one thread only. This rule will continue to be enforced in other threads. So keep the WW class action discussion in this thread, or your posts will be deleted.
  
  
• The following rule will still be enforced:

  You may post about problems you have with a product or organization, however the use of the forums to repeatedly attack them is strictly forbidden.

  In other words, no bashing allowed. This thread is for disseminating information, not venting your spleen. Flaming, trolling, bashing, etc. will not be permitted.
  
  
• Only general discussion of these problems and repairs are allowed. Specific questions about individual circumstances are not allowed ("my XYZ is bent, does this situation apply to me?").
  
  
• We all have brains. Please use them. Verify what you read here. I am wrong all the time. Please don't rely on me for any decisions you may choose to make. If you make a bad call, don't blame me, please.
  
  
• For the sake of full disclosure, I own a 2005 FS2600 and am having trouble with my trailer. I consider myself fairly objective, but that doesn't mean I don't ever have biases. In some recent cases where I could not be objective, I defered to Y-Guy and Admin to take the wheel. In this thread I will tell you what I've done and what my experiences have been.

Now, with that out of the way...

As most of you know, there has been a class action suit and Weekend Warrior is settling with the class. Here's a link to the Settlement Agreement: http://www.trailersettlement.com/sa.pdf. I won't go into the details of the settlement, because I don't want to be in the position of interpreting it or giving any legal clarification or advice. So if you're having trouble with your trailer, this is one possible avenue. Contact (866)459-6003 or visit www.trailersettlement.com for information about the class action settlement. They can tell you whether you qualify and where to go from there.

That's one option.

Without going into too many details, I discovered some problems with my trailer. After seeing pictures of some that were worse than mine, I decided I'd better do something before it got worse. However, I'm not a fan of class action suits. I've received too many checks for $10 in the mail to cover one class action or another. I didn't want to take the chance of having my trailer only partially fixed or having to personally pay a bunch of money for only half a fix. So I contacted Weekend Warrior directly and told them about my problems. Couldn't hurt, right?

Know what they said? "Let's make an appointment for you to bring it in and we'll fix it." :E

So yesterday I took my trailer down to beautiful Perris and dropped it off. I asked about the cost, and my service writer said they'd FIX IT. I watched him write up his sheet and he only filled in prices for the extra items I requested (fair 'nuf). Being the selfish guy I am, I took this bit of good news and high tailed it out of there counting myself a very lucky man. Sure, it would have been better if it hadn't broken in the first place. But the past can't be changed. I just want mine fixed.

After feeling fairly secure that I had MINE taken care of, I wanted to find out if I had just personally hit the jackpot or if this was the WW policy in these cases. So I contacted someone higher up at WW to find out if other people in this same situation could expect the same treatment. Here's what I was told:

Any customer who currently has an issue, we are standing behind [them]. If they have an issue that has not been resolved, we are directing them to contact us here, locally, or the dealership in their area.

We are standing behind our product. By that, I mean we are fixing anything that needs to be fixed as long as there are no apparent signs of abuse. If the consumer is, however, looking for any type of monetary compensation then we cannot directly assist them. They would then need to contact the (866)459-6003 number or visit www.trailersettlement.com.

There's your other option.

If you choose to contact Weekend Warrior directly for repairs, call (909)579-0353. The operator in Upland routes the calls to the appropriate repair facility in Perris (Superlite or Normal).

[jpogue]

Are you going to remove all of the little OSB particles from the TPO before gluing it back down? I tried using a stiff bristle brush (not wire) and it got alot of it off but not all of it. I noticed you painted the framework in the front,was that Kilz you used there? Spent most of today scraping off ol putty and treating some of the minor stuff with copper green. Another friend of mine recommended a product called restore-it. I'm thinking about using that along the sides and in the corners where the water got into the framework.

[armdrag]

I will clean the old TPO with Acetone before applying eternabond. It is friendly to TPO and epdm. Good choice from your roofer friend. Just use Kilz or Shelac on any mold. it will stop it dead.

[jpogue]

Thanks for the response armdrag. What kind of glue should I use to put the tpo back down with? A friend of mine who is a roofing contractor recommended sticking with the osb since I am doing just a few sections. He also said that eternabond along seam areas was a good idea. He's gonna talk to a friend of his who specializes in tpo repair and pick his brain some more for me. One thing he recommended that I wasn't crazy about was using copper green on the lumber that still has some fungus on it. I have heard of a product called rot rid but he wasn't that crazy about it. Sofor the next few days I'll be scraping all of the old putty off of everything and cleaning up before I put it all back together. Oh I checked the storage compartment up front and it is fine, i just checked the bad corner so I will check the other corner lat today and keep you posted. Thanks so much for your help. When I figure out how to post pics I'll share some.

[armdrag]

jpogue wrote:
Okay let me start off by saying my name is John and I also own a weekend warrior. It is a 2006 FS2600,gel coat sides,and has been covered most of it's life accept the last 2 years. I saw my nieghbor repairing his roof and he told me to check mine out. So I did and as you might expect it's all soft around the whole front seam on the roof,and also in the back driver side corner. I started doing some searching and found this forum and some others but this one is the most recent,so here I am. I have the whole front ppiece off and most of the roofing peeled back and the damaged sections of particle board removed. Armdrag why did you use plywood for your repair? How do you re-attatch the TPO roofing material? Also I was thinking about using eternabond on the seams after I put everything back together,is this a good idea? Thanks in advance to you all for inspiring me to get off my lazy arse and do something about this.

John, I choose plywood over OSB because I feel it is stronger and will hold up better than OSB. The TPO has to be glued down and eternabond is how I am going to seam mine at the flat to angle transition. I bought a 20.00 1/4 crown stapler from Harbor Freight to staple the epdm on the side. I am using black EPDM for my repair and will coat with liquid roof or liquid rubber (approx 1 Gallon). I will have a TPO to EPDM transition. FYI I bought black EPDM a 10x50ft.045 mil roll for 140.00 at a local supplier It was damaged by a fork lift taking it off the truck . A small gouge one layer into the roll. If for some reason I have to tear back into this trailer, It wont feel like such a hit in the pocket. I would suggest pulling back the floor covering in the basement to see if you have water there too.

Good luck to you. It's a lot of work but you will know just what you have when you are done.

[jpogue]

Okay let me start off by saying my name is John and I also own a weekend warrior. It is a 2006 FS2600,gel coat sides,and has been covered most of it's life accept the last 2 years. I saw my nieghbor repairing his roof and he told me to check mine out. So I did and as you might expect it's all soft around the whole front seam on the roof,and also in the back driver side corner. I started doing some searching and found this forum and some others but this one is the most recent,so here I am. I have the whole front ppiece off and most of the roofing peeled back and the damaged sections of particle board removed. Armdrag why did you use plywood for your repair? How do you re-attatch the TPO roofing material? Also I was thinking about using eternabond on the seams after I put everything back together,is this a good idea? Thanks in advance to you all for inspiring me to get off my lazy arse and do something about this.

[armdrag]

So the question remains. Did they use finger jointed studs on all models? A practice in the home building industry that would not be tolerated. The building inspector would issue a red tag and all work would stop until corrected. RV's put a lot more stress on wood than a stationary building. Cept in California 🙂
RV BUILDERS are not held to any uniform construction codes

[lincster]

allcool wrote:

lincster wrote:

He has a Superlite. Different construction, different size pieces of wood than yours.

armdrag wrote:

Lincster,from what I have seen all WW were of the same roof construction and by Marks own admission. Do you have something that supports your claim of different roof construction? I would be surprised to know they use a different (not finger jointed studs designed for verticle use ONLY) on a model that is the same width as a super light. An inch and a half deep roof is still an inch and a half....drop a vent and measure ;)and if it is a 2x4 laid on the flat that adds absolutly no structural integrity as it is still an inch and a half...the three and a half inch strength is of no value because its not verticle to the load

Not trying to be confrentational just trying to help those that may be starting to experience roof fatigue.

Actually, your roof damage prompted me too talk to my WW rv guy that use to work at WW. He said all the Superlites had a different roof construction with no attic.
The bigger(full weight) wide bodies have ducted a/c with an
'attic' for the ductwork. Also he said they have something he called a 'decked roof' 2x4 truss construction with attic ? got no idea what that is.

Anyhow, thankfully my roof seems to be solid and has no concave bow in it at all. Feels very solid to walk on.
RV Doctor resealed it last Xmas and said its in perfect condition with no leakage.
So I tend to think Lincster is correct that the Superlite construction is maybe different.

Sorry you had all that damage, it really suks. But you seem to be right on top of it, doing an incredible detailed and solid repair.
Probably don't want to hear this, but have you done, or do you need the frame upgrade to make sure the walls can hold up that nice new roof ?




Moderators Edit: Adjusted photo width to 640 pixels per the forum guidelines. The Photo FAQ's has help & tips for posting photos.

Yep, the ducted AC makes a difference. The roofs are different.

[armdrag]

I know that the new Warriors have a cambered roof that appears to have the two by fours on edge. if yours are on edge to then the finger jointed studs will probably hold up better (if they are finger jointed)

My frame is as solid as can be expected. I am a welder too so I have a good idea what to look for. I dont cinch up my load levelers too tight to strees the tounge. I did try to haul it one time with out the load levelers, bad move on my part. the frame has too much flex in it

[allcool]

lincster wrote:

He has a Superlite. Different construction, different size pieces of wood than yours.

armdrag wrote:

Lincster,from what I have seen all WW were of the same roof construction and by Marks own admission. Do you have something that supports your claim of different roof construction? I would be surprised to know they use a different (not finger jointed studs designed for verticle use ONLY) on a model that is the same width as a super light. An inch and a half deep roof is still an inch and a half....drop a vent and measure ;)and if it is a 2x4 laid on the flat that adds absolutly no structural integrity as it is still an inch and a half...the three and a half inch strength is of no value because its not verticle to the load

Not trying to be confrentational just trying to help those that may be starting to experience roof fatigue.

Actually, your roof damage prompted me too talk to my WW rv guy that use to work at WW. He said all the Superlites had a different roof construction with no attic.
The bigger(full weight) wide bodies have ducted a/c with an
'attic' for the ductwork. Also he said they have something he called a 'decked roof' 2x4 truss construction with attic ? got no idea what that is.

Anyhow, thankfully my roof seems to be solid and has no concave bow in it at all. Feels very solid to walk on.
RV Doctor resealed it last Xmas and said its in perfect condition with no leakage.
So I tend to think Lincster is correct that the Superlite construction is maybe different.

Sorry you had all that damage, it really suks. But you seem to be right on top of it, doing an incredible detailed and solid repair.
Probably don't want to hear this, but have you done, or do you need the frame upgrade to make sure the walls can hold up that nice new roof ?




Moderators Edit: Adjusted photo width to 640 pixels per the forum guidelines. The Photo FAQ's has help & tips for posting photos.

[armdrag]

BigDog, thanks I will. Please take pictures of your findings in the wall. I am sure I will be tackling that soon enough. I just hate taking long peices of siding off.

[BigDogF250]

Armdrag - Keep up the good work and postings! Very common to see those "vertical use only" used horizontally on the WW. Love the design, hate the execution. I had to do a similar reinforcement in the right rear, 8' of angle iron sandwich because they used the same stuff as the bottom of the wall, it looked like a snake. I will be opening up the bottom 2/3 of the wall sometime later this summer to fix similar problems to the side door (another 10 feet) and add support to the wheel wells. Really like getting a better idea of what's in there.

[armdrag]

He has a Superlite. Different construction, different size pieces of wood than yours.

Lincster,from what I have seen all WW were of the same roof construction and by Marks own admission. Do you have something that supports your claim of different roof construction? I would be surprised to know they use a different (not finger jointed studs designed for verticle use ONLY) on a model that is the same width as a super light. An inch and a half deep roof is still an inch and a half....drop a vent and measure ;)and if it is a 2x4 laid on the flat that adds absolutly no structural integrity as it is still an inch and a half...the three and a half inch strength is of no value because its not verticle to the load

Not trying to be confrentational just trying to help those that may be starting to experience roof fatigue.

[lincster]

allcool wrote:

armdrag wrote:
Hi All,
I have been repairing my 2007 WW FS2500 since the day I brought it home in 2007. I have documented as much as I can the damage and the fix. I also have some outrigger repair pictures from another poster. cant remember who. Click here to access my google photo album (click on the picture)

I hope this helps those that cant afford to take it to a dealer to get fixed.

Regards
Ken
Here are some pics
If you have a roof that is sagging the reason is because the rafters were made with finger joined studs. Not for horizontal use.


Here is the factory stamp on one of my rafters


I am replacing rafters with 1-1/2 ripped down from clear(no knots) 2x6. And sistering 1-1/2 x 1/8 angle iron to them. I will be posting more pictures as I progress with the rebuild

Wow, that is a lot of damage, and looks to be a very poor choice of construction materials and construction.
Sorry you're having those problems.

I'm not very familar with the construction of the WW roof rafter system. In your pics, are we looking at what my WW fsw3200 brochure says is...
" 2"x4" Constructed Truss Roof "

He has a Superlite. Different construction, different size pieces of wood than yours.

[pcassidy111]

What is the indicator of a rotted out roof. I walk on my 2005 FS2600 roof and it gives a little under my 200 pounds but I can also feel the trailer rocking on the suspension. In the front corners of the roof where the TPO meets the aluminum siding I rap on the roof with my knuckles and it sounds solid and it is not spongy; I had evidence of water seepage there because the screws were rusty and WW did a poor job of sealing the area.

I too have a slight sag in my roof by the AC unit, rear corner of it touches the roof. I'll have to check to see if I have finger joint limber on my 2005 which was built in 2004. No leaks around the AC.

[armdrag]

Does anyone know what type of plastic the front cowlings on the WW Superlights are made from? e.g. ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), EMA (Ethylene Meth- acrylic Acid), PPO + PA Noryl GTX (Nylon blend). There are so many types and they all have thier own repair technique...HELP!!!!!