When the shelf is pulled into the upright position, the hinged piece of 1/8" thick plywood will automatically fall down into this position.
The only hardware needed is a hinge, as gravity will do the rest. When putting the shelf back into the down position, all I need to do is push the 1/8" plywood back up into position, and the 1/2" plywood shelf will fold down easily.
I do plan on using one of these towards each end of the shelf, so between the 2 of them, they should hold the shelf nicely, and out of the way when not in use.
The only hardware needed is a hinge, as gravity will do the rest. When putting the shelf back into the down position, all I need to do is push the 1/8" plywood back up into position, and the 1/2" plywood shelf will fold down easily.
I do plan on using one of these towards each end of the shelf, so between the 2 of them, they should hold the shelf nicely, and out of the way when not in use.
I also started work on a prototype setup for the rear shelf, which will go beneath the rear window cover.
Let's assume that the window behind the plywood is a wall. My shelf is 1/2" plywood, and as you can see, I routed out a portion so that a piece of 1/8" thick plywood will sit in there and the plywood will still be flush with the wall.
Let's assume that the window behind the plywood is a wall. My shelf is 1/2" plywood, and as you can see, I routed out a portion so that a piece of 1/8" thick plywood will sit in there and the plywood will still be flush with the wall.
That closes things off when assembled and provides a better glue joint when using the Kreg pocket screw joint.
This is what I should have done from the beginning. Don't know what I was thinking.... or not.
Here is what the inside joint looked like, and as you can see, there was very little surface area for a glue joint.
When I cut the groove in the upright piece, I ran the groove all the way to the end, and I should not have done that. This is what it looked like. Duh.... Lol.
I know some of you are going to find this a shock, but, I screwed up.
When I made the rear window cover brackets, I failed. I knew it when I put it together the first time, but I figured I'd get things close and then replace this piece before final installation.
When I made the rear window cover brackets, I failed. I knew it when I put it together the first time, but I figured I'd get things close and then replace this piece before final installation.
JoeH wrote:fulltimin wrote:
After some consideration, I also decided to modify the rear window bracket for the slider.
I figure if I ever want to remove the slider, I need a way to do so without taking the entire bracket out.
As a result I have to modify the top bracket.
Isn't that going to rattle like crazy driving down our "fine" roads ?
Not if I use "soft wood". Oh, come on, that's funny! Lol.
Actually, I was waiting for someone to come up with that.
My plan is to use some of the "brush" type stuff that is used on windows to help prevent the rattling. I think the bottom will be fine, since there will be plenty of weight on it.
The top on the other hand, will need some "cushion" to prevent that. I plan on using this - which I also used on the LR windows.
That should keep things quiet. (Hopefully).
Thanks for the post.
fulltimin wrote:
After some consideration, I also decided to modify the rear window bracket for the slider.
I figure if I ever want to remove the slider, I need a way to do so without taking the entire bracket out.
As a result I have to modify the top bracket.
Isn't that going to rattle like crazy driving down our "fine" roads ?
After some consideration, I also decided to modify the rear window bracket for the slider.
I figure if I ever want to remove the slider, I need a way to do so without taking the entire bracket out.
As a result I have to modify the top bracket.
I figure if I ever want to remove the slider, I need a way to do so without taking the entire bracket out.
As a result I have to modify the top bracket.
