Averting door lock disaster...

[Spizzer]

I have read a few posts on here about folks having their entrance door lock mechanism fail, and that it turns into a big ordeal. That has always been in the back of my mind, while I hoped it would never happens to me. I thought I would pass along my recent experience so that it might help somebody else....

Not long ago when I went to open the door (07 Journey) the outside handle pulled and felt like it was "grinding" in the mechanism and the door did not open. I saw that the door was not closed all the way so I pushed against it to fully latch it and then the handle worked fine. It happened another time or two and I thought I should do something about it.....

The other day my DW tells me, "I can't get the RV door open." I said you just have to push on it first as it isn't closed all the way. I went out and pushed on it and low and behold, the "grind" and it didn't open! I pushed again, same thing. As panic set in, I banged on the door at the handle and it opened! I figure, OK, it's time to do something about it. I took it apart and all the pieces appeared fine. After a bit though, I came to the conclusion as to what had happened is that enough stuff had shifted (the lock mechanism can slide around in the door if the screws aren't tight enough)and the little finger that sticks through from the outside handle had slipped a bit lower and was sliding under and against the bottom of the arm it was supposed to push, and hence the grinding.

I gave things a shot of super lube spray and put it back together. I also put a bit of RTV gasket maker behind the outside plate so that it would be less apt to slide around on the door. There was no seal or anything, just a dry fit, metal on metal. It seems putting the RTV on it will help keep moisture and dust out.

Finally, the only adjustment on the whole thing (aside from position of the lock when you tighten down the screws to sandwich it to the door is a nut on the rod going from the handle to the latch release. You adjust it after removing a black plastic glued on cover on the edge of the door right below the mechanism. The tighter the nut is, the better the outside latch mechanism seemed to work. I ended up making it a bit tighter than it was when I took it apart.

We are getting ready to hit the road for a long trip pretty soon, and that is now one less thing I have to worry about.

Safe Travels,
jeff

[rockhillmanor]

Spizzer wrote:

TucsonJim wrote:
And if all else should fail, make sure you keep a cordless drill and bits in your storage so you can drill the thing out if you are to the point where you simply can't get it open.

Man, I would hate to have to do that, but it's a worst case solution.

Thanks,Jeff

On mine you could not drill it out. They had to pull back the trim, ouch. So my emergency lock repair costs doubled.

[Spizzer]

TucsonJim wrote:
And if all else should fail, make sure you keep a cordless drill and bits in your storage so you can drill the thing out if you are to the point where you simply can't get it open.

Man, I would hate to have to do that, but it's a worst case solution.

Thanks,

Jeff

[Spizzer]

rockhillmanor wrote:
FYI, Just be aware:

Don't know what type of door lock you have but what you described is usually the beginning symptoms of the lock itself failing. Not from lack of tightening/lubricating but from the pot metal part inside failing. ........
.

I tried to check every thing out while I had it apart and everything seem good. What part failed on yours?

Jeff

[Spizzer]

Fleet Man wrote:
As insurance, leave one of the windows unlocked - one that is big enough for you to crawl through should you have to. The driver side sliding window is my suggestion. ....../

I've thought about that. I think I'll do it until I have more confidence in the fix.

Thanks,

Jeff

[Fleet_Man]

As insurance, leave one of the windows unlocked - one that is big enough for you to crawl through should you have to. The driver side sliding window is my suggestion. Some leave the bedroom sliding window unlatched.

The rubber support on the solenoid linkage to the door lock is what gave me fits. The linkage would drop down, bind and not activate the lock. I ended up jerry rigging a support to keep the linkage level so it would move straight in and straight out without dropping out of alignment/

[rockhillmanor]

FYI, Just be aware:

Don't know what type of door lock you have but what you described is usually the beginning symptoms of the lock itself failing. Not from lack of tightening/lubricating but from the pot metal part inside failing.

When the part finally breaks you sadly 'will' find yourself locked when the key can't turn it.

Had it not only happen once but twice. Got locked out and in of my coach both times. First time cost me $500 to get the door open and ordered new lock while on the road in a CG.

The second time I got locked inside and I was so mad I ripped the dang thing apart my self and disengaged the part of the lock that had the pot metal mechanism. Leaving only the dead bolt part of the lock working.

[TucsonJim]

And if all else should fail, make sure you keep a cordless drill and bits in your storage so you can drill the thing out if you are to the point where you simply can't get it open.

[fla-gypsy]

Great "how to" and disaster prevention.