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Dually Rims- Can you mix steel with Aluminum?

RVNewbie1972
Explorer
Explorer
Hey Everyone-

I have a 1993 Ford E350 dually which houses a 1994 Eldorado. One of the outer rear rims has taken a beating on the outer bead and needs to be replaced. Currently, all rims are steel on the RV, however I have found a replacement Rim which is Aluminum at the local Truck junkyard.

This Alumimum rim will fit, but I am not sure if I should use it. My mechanic says that he has heard you should never put Alumimum and steel rims next to each other on a dually, but isn't sure why.

I have called the local dealership and asked if it is a no-no. The Parts guy told me that it is common practice for Aluminum to be put on the outside and steel on the inside. I checked some online forums and have found for the most part that everyone else does the same.

I then called the place I bought the aluminum rim from and asked if it is feasible and was told "probably not a good idea" (They thought I was looking for an aluminum rim and said they would they would return it no problem).

Well, I'm torn here- Of course safety is 1st always, BUT I can't find a concrete reason as to why I shouldn't mix Aluminum with steel; quite contrary from most people. This brings me to the price- The Used aluminum rim cost me $100 cash and carry.......A Steel rim from the ford dealership will cost $360 before tax. Now again, if it is a safety issue, then I don't have a problem spending...But I can't seem to get a real answer.

Help!!!
10 REPLIES 10

Captjack
Explorer
Explorer
I am pretty sure you don't want to goop up the lugs and lug nuts with anti-seize. As I understand it, when you torque up a bolting set to high levels, you get plastic deformation and good metal to metal contact. If you torque up a anti-sieze treated set to the proper torque, I would think that it would be more likely to loosen under cyclic load. FWIW, Jack (Electrical, not mechanical engineer)

RVNewbie1972
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the advice everyone.

I indeed went with putting the Aluminum rim on the outside. I made sure to goop up both sides of the steel rim, the lugs, lugnuts, and hub with anti-seize compound as well.

Everyone's advice was instrumental in giving me piece of mind to do it. Thanks again!

jgorm1
Explorer
Explorer
Yeah, I run 4 alcoa's and they say that you have to run steel on the inner duallys, probably for the stud length.

ron_dittmer
Explorer II
Explorer II
carringb wrote:
Just put a thin film of anti-seize on BOTH sides of the steel wheel. It'll prevent any galvanic corrosion, and will allow you to actually change the tire if you get a flat on the side of the road. Sometimes hub-centric wheels can really get themselves stuck on the hub.
Great advice!

I do the same on both sides of brake rotors on all vehicle brake work. Alloy wheels separate easily from the rotors, and the rotors separate easily from the hubs.

Also, rust swells creating uneven surfaces, then whobbling. New brakes can pulsate because of rusty hubs & rotor mating surfaces. Remove all rust before reassembly.

Dakzuki
Explorer
Explorer
That is the standard setup for Sprinters with alloys. The factory studs are not long enough to mount two alloys on the rear.
2011 Itasca Navion 24J
2000 Chev Tracker Toad

the_bear_II
Explorer
Explorer
Have done it on my last two trucks no problems.

carringb
Explorer
Explorer
Just put a thin film of anti-seize on BOTH sides of the steel wheel. It'll prevent any galvanic corrosion, and will allow you to actually change the tire if you get a flat on the side of the road. Sometimes hub-centric wheels can really get themselves stuck on the hub.
2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
2015 Ford Focus ST

The_Texan
Explorer
Explorer
Take a look at every DP you see and you will find that at least 95% are configured with steel inside and aluminum outside. No problems that I have ever heard of. Also, my last dually pickup had steel inside and aluminum outside, so I would say it is very common.

Bob & Betsy - USN Aviation Ret'd '78 & LEO Ret'd '03 & "Oath Keeper Forever"


2005 HR Endeavor 40PRQ, '11 Silverado LT, Ex Cab 6.2L NHT 4x4, w/2017 Rzr 4-900 riding in 16+' enclosed trailer in back.
Where the wheels are stopped today

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
Affirmative on all of the above. If I recall, somebody tried to use aluminum inners and found the bolt studs weren't long enough. The AK wheels are thicker to get the strength steel has.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

ChooChooMan74
Explorer
Explorer
Its done all the time. Most of the time, the inners are steel anr the outers are aluminum. Plus, on the fronts, the aluminum is in contact with the steel hub. Steel hub or wheel, they contact steel.
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