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Engine replacement 1992-1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer

Geocritter
Explorer
Explorer
I need some knowledgeable information based on experience and not speculation. After much diagnosis including three separate cylinder balance tests, a thorough exam of the running engine with a mechanics stethoscope and finally a laboratory analysis of the engines motor oil Iโ€™ve come to the conclusion that I need to replace the Ford 460 V8 engine in my 1994 Holiday Rambler Vacationer. Though Iโ€™m a geologist by profession, I have over 50 years of experience doing 95% of my own mechanical work and Iโ€™ve replaced engines before in various cars and trucks Iโ€™ve owned over the years. However, they all had traditional engine access. After viewing my rig from both the topside and underneath it appears that the best way to replace the engine is to remove the front grill and bumper as well as the radiator and possibly the engines intake manifold to gain more top end clearance, and finally remove the engine through the front of the vehicle using an engine crane (something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sxt-5218?seid=srese1&gclid=CIThldCZ7sQCFQwbaQodbHwA0A ). I expect installation to be the reverse of removal.


Front of my Holiday Rambler


Photo showing how the grill partially wraps around the front and can be removed.

If anyone has any experience replacing the engine on a 1992 to 1995 Holiday Rambler Vacationer Iโ€™d appreciate their insight into the job.
Thanks in advance for your help in this project.

Steve
22 REPLIES 22

RLS7201
Explorer II
Explorer II
Steve, I don't have a HR. I have a 460 Bounder on a F53 chassis. Our chassis are identical. The chassis measurements that I offered are the same for both of our MHs. Those with 454s offering advice have not considered the fact that our 460 engines are taller and wider. So we have more of a challenge.

Chevy 454 Block

Ford 460 block

Hopefully you'll post pictures of your engine R&R.
Then I'll know what challenges I'll face when I get ready to install my 528 stroker this fall. GRIN

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

Geocritter
Explorer
Explorer
I didn't state my rigs chassis but it's a Ford F53 chassis. I was just over at the storage lot taking measurements (I live in it but am temporarily house/dog sitting for a friend). Based on my measurements it certainly looks as if it'll work. However, as RLS7201 speculated from measurements of his 1995 HR RV, it'll be tight and I may have to do it with the intake manifold, valve covers and rocker arms removed (I hope not just because the risk of dirt contamination). As for updates I'll certainly keep the members here updated. Hopefully someone will arrive soon who's actually removed and reinstalled the engine through the front of their 1992-1995 RV.

Steve

3708
Explorer
Explorer
I feel your dismay, i'll give you the short version. I replaced a 454 on a 85HR and some of the same rules apply.
1.)Took the engine out the dog house thru the side door(would not do it this way again, engine to high very unsafe)don't know if this would even apply to your coach.
2.) Rebuilt the engine shoved it back thru the front grille/radiator area. What i did is got some 3/4 plate bolted it to the manifold(where carb. bolts on)with a eyelet and with a engine jack was able to put it thru the front, now if you still have a clearence problen leave your oil pan off till you get it into position and then install.
3.) This is the most important to me, irregardless how good your transmission seemed prior to this, replace your torque converter, its cheap insurance, believe me all my hard work was in vain because of this simple step i bypassed.
Overview:Would i do it again? NO. Was i glad i did it then? YES. Did i learn somthing? YES. What did i learn? Don't do it again.
My problem then was in 05, that i had a coach maybe worth 10,000 and they wanted 8,000 to do a turn key engine rplacement, i did it myself everthing brand new except Torque converter for 3,700 this was in 05. 3708

prstlk
Explorer
Explorer
Although a lot has changed at hr/monaco since the coach was built might be worth an email or call. Might be some old timer around who could give some insight. Not sure if hr was building there own chassis back then but, if for instance it's a spartan or freightliner they to might be able to help.

Be a real pisser to get it "Almost" out then get stuck on something.
Please keep us updated pics would be great
jw
2007 Keystone Challenger 5th wheel, Ford F350 Super Duty 6.7L Diesel, Short Bed, 2 dogs and the cat and rolling down the road full time since May 2014

sailor_lou
Explorer
Explorer
No direct experience, but a few years back someone posted pics of removing their engine from inside the RV using a cherry picker. IIRC, they placed some plywood on the floor and lifted it up through the doghouse opening and out the door. When we had our previous rig (97 Winne Vectra, 460 CID) I check out the openings and thought if I ever needed to do that job that's the approach I would take. However, your HR may not have the same clearances. Fortunately for me it was never required. Good luck and keep us informed on how you tackle this.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy

RLS7201
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you remove the cross brace that the air cleaner box sits on, you should have about 3" of clearance for the engine to come forward. Measured from the bottom of the pan to the top of the valve covers. If you remove the upper manifold, valve covers and rocker arms, you should then have plenty of clearance for the cherry picker (engine crane). I'll be addressing the same issue this fall when I change out my 1995 F53 460.

Keep us posted
Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

Geocritter
Explorer
Explorer
enblethen wrote:
I would verify the arm length. My engine sits quite aways back behind the hood. If you are pulling engine and transmission at same time with arm extended it may be too heavy.
Summit Racing

Oddly enough my transmission seems to be okay (knock on wood) it's always shifted well and doesn't leak at all. My plan is to just remove the engine, leaving the transmission and torque converter in the vehicle.

You bring up a good point and when I rent the engine crane I'll be certain to measure the distance taking balance/fulcrum points into account.

Steve

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I would verify the arm length. My engine sits quite aways back behind the hood. If you are pulling engine and transmission at same time with arm extended it may be too heavy.
Summit Racing

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker