Ford fuel pump fuse or relay

[prstlk]

95 minie winnie 460 ford. Trying to help a friend change a fuel filter. Have the special tool for the quick connects. Instructions say to remove the fuel pump fuse, start the engine, run till it stalls. Then remove the filter. The owners manuel shows the fuse box located under the hood, but it doesen't show the same fuses the manual does. The inside of the fuse box cover shows letters for differant fuses but we can find no coresponding table in the manual.

Any ideas would be helpful, thanks in advance.

[BruceMc]

It's always a blast to go read my old postings.... especially now that I've sold that Ford. I've yet to peek under the new '16 Chevy for the filter location, but expect I won't have to change it for several years yet.

Fun times.

[crasster]

j-d wrote:
I've read all that before. It's legalize to try and avoid liability in case somebody gets gas in their eye, drips it on fresh asphalt, sets the coach on fire, etc. Before long they'll want you to disconnect the battery to check the oil. You're going to get more of a drip than a spray, when you unlock the fuel line retainers. It's only a liquid that had pressure on it when the pump shut off. I wrote this thread about it. Notice the warnings in the first few posts. Such as being sure the new filter is the correct diameter and that its nipples are long enough to allow you to remove it with that 5/16" disconnect tool. That's NormK's warning and my pic showing the longer nipples on the small diameter filter. And Bryan's warning about filter size. Here's another thread by BruceMc that takes you down the same path but with a few different wiggles and giggles.
I know you can't pull fuel through a Ford in-tank, high-pressure (as used with fuel injection) pump that isn't running. Still, I'd be careful to cap the line coming from the rear. Then it couldn't try to siphon the tank. I can't remember if anybody suggested loosening the gas cap so vapor pressure wouldn't be trying to push fuel to the filter area. This is an hour's instructions for a five-minute job.

X2 all the way. Do it at your own risk, but mfgs are very scared of liability over a rather fast job. I've never seen one "spray". Drip absolutely.

[j-d]

I've read all that before. It's legalize to try and avoid liability in case somebody gets gas in their eye, drips it on fresh asphalt, sets the coach on fire, etc. Before long they'll want you to disconnect the battery to check the oil. You're going to get more of a drip than a spray, when you unlock the fuel line retainers. It's only a liquid that had pressure on it when the pump shut off. I wrote this thread about it. Notice the warnings in the first few posts. Such as being sure the new filter is the correct diameter and that its nipples are long enough to allow you to remove it with that 5/16" disconnect tool. That's NormK's warning and my pic showing the longer nipples on the small diameter filter. And Bryan's warning about filter size. Here's another thread by BruceMc that takes you down the same path but with a few different wiggles and giggles.
I know you can't pull fuel through a Ford in-tank, high-pressure (as used with fuel injection) pump that isn't running. Still, I'd be careful to cap the line coming from the rear. Then it couldn't try to siphon the tank. I can't remember if anybody suggested loosening the gas cap so vapor pressure wouldn't be trying to push fuel to the filter area. This is an hour's instructions for a five-minute job.

[BruceMc]

Not sure this will help, as mine was a '99, but here was my under-hood fuse block:



--Bruce.