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Living with battery (to power TV, fans and charge phones)

CodyClassB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I've been thinking about getting a portable generator. After carefully reviewing my power needs, I think I will be fine with a good battery supply .

We have a TV (20 inches) and 2 small fans which can be powered by 12 volt battery. Does anyone here have a good advice on getting a good battery . We do not want to do a lot of maintenance so we prefer something that will be charged when we are driving . We need to have enough power 10 hours of continuous usage.

thank you
34 REPLIES 34

Horizon170
Explorer
Explorer
I use a cheaper version of this type on whichever vehicle that I have parked and not using as a dail...
Marvin

2010 Coachman Freelander 22TB on a
2008 Sprinter/Freightliner chassis
1995 Geo Tracker (Toad)

tplife
Explorer
Explorer
CodyClassB wrote:
Does anyone have any advises on charging a separated automobile battery inside the car ? I've been looking for battery charger on Amazon . Almost all of the chargers use 110 volt AC to charge the battery . That means I have to charge the battery inside the house (or get an DC>AC inverter in order to charge it inside the van). How do you charge your battery ? What kind of charger ? I would like to install the battery permanently inside the van and have the battery charged while driving to the campground.

thanks


Here's an easy project that might fit your needs:

12V to 12V charger

I use something simpler, I have quick-disconnects on all my portable power supply gear. I have one of them that is wired to a fused cigarette lighter adapter. Plugging it into my AGM lead and the car's lighter outlet charges my AGM while I drive.

Horizon170
Explorer
Explorer
Regardless of battery type I suggest you have at least two for house batteries.
We have two deep cycle about the size of Gp27's and that is enough for us for 48 hours. They run the inverter and we use the MW about 30 min. and TV, lights etc about 16 hours of the 48.
Happy motoring in 2014.
Marvin

2010 Coachman Freelander 22TB on a
2008 Sprinter/Freightliner chassis
1995 Geo Tracker (Toad)

My_Roadtrek
Explorer
Explorer
Now that everyone has had their say on AGM's, and Deep Cycle batteries, let's get back to the OP.
If anyone wants to read more about AGM, or Deep Cycle batteries just search the archives.
To Desert Captain, I edited, and added the comment about posting without being antagonistic, it was meant for full-mosey, not you.

Thanks, moderator

Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Explorer III
full_mosey wrote:
Desert Captain wrote:
In the boating industry there are two iron clad maxims: Nothing is either waterproof or maintenance free. AGM's offer many advantages but some of them are of little or no value relative to the significantly higher cost. As noted they are not maintenance free. Do you really need to mount them on their sides or upside down? I seriously doubt it. Do you have a smart charger that has a setting specifically for AGM's?

The point being that not everyone needs AGM's, they are wonderful batteries but come with a very hefty price tag compared to a quality deep cycle wet cell. The way most folks use their RV's, with the exception of full timers, a set of wet cell Trojans (6 or 12 volt properly installed), will give you more amps per buck than an AGM. :C


Another flimsy anti-AGM diatribe.

You see, we AGM folks don't go around spreading this type of DIS-information about your beloved wets.

What is this alleged AGM maintenance?

How about some actual facts and figures to back up significant and hefty price differences?

Isn't it the deep cycle wets that have the special charging requirements. Don't deep cycle wets:

1. dry out when left on a dumb single stage charger.

2. require equalization to prevent acid stratification.

3. emit H gas during charging.

4. emit acid mist during charging.

5. discharge faster and cannot be left unattended as long.

The negatives of wets ARE the positives of AGMs.

HTH;
John

How about responding without being antagonistic.


LMAO, I will even though you weren't....

1. I have not seen a single stage charger in 20 years so your point is mute. If you spend the money for AGM's, not a small sum, you had better spend more money to get a charger/converter that has a specific AGM charging profile....cha ching! If you use a conventional charging system you will negate several of the AGM's attributes. Oh BTW, AGM's charge more slowly than wets, not a big deal but just another fact to be considered.

2. Yes wet cell batteries will benefit from an equalization cycle as part of a regular program of maintenance.

3. & 4. With the newer caps found on most quality wet cell batteries off gassing and mist is contained.

5. Yes, wet cells do discharge faster and cannot be left as long as AGM's. In normal RV/Marine use the difference is not significant while the cost differential is.


Let me say it agin:

"The point being that not everyone needs AGM's, they are wonderful batteries but come with a very hefty price tag compared to a quality deep cycle wet cell."

I don't know why you went off as you did but my statement remains a fact. I am glad you love your AGM's but the average RV'er does not necessarily need to spend the extra money. I could sit for 3 days boon docking in our TT with just two group 24 deep cycle wets and not run out of DC. They cost $75 each (out the door), and lasted 3+ years, they were still going strong when I sold the TT. No AGM with a proper charger can match that bang for the buck performance.

Our Class C has two group 31's that are 2.5 years old and the hydrometer still shows them in the green. Again we can go 3 days without charging and still have plenty of power. In both cases the appropriate battery selection comes down to how you are going to use them. I can hunt rabbits with a 44 Magnum but a 22 will do the job just fine at a significantly lower cost.

:C

My_Roadtrek
Explorer
Explorer
CodyClassB wrote:
My RV currently have 1 deep cycle wet battery and I am planning to add another one . Does it have to be same type or can it be AGM battery ?

thanks


They should be the same type, and optimally the same size, capacity, and age.
When 12-volt batteries are used in pairs and wired in parallel, the stronger one will discharge into the weaker one.

If you don't have a smart (3 stage) converter charger, I suggest you put that high on you list. This will cut down on out gassing, maintenance, and preserve the life of your batteries.

Horizon170
Explorer
Explorer
CodyClassB wrote:
My RV currently have 1 deep cycle wet battery and I am planning to add another one . Does it have to be same type or can it be AGM battery ?

thanks

I am of the opinion that both batteries should be the same, whether wet or AGM. Should be twins as far as type and age. Put two new ones in your RV and use the present one some place else.
Marvin

2010 Coachman Freelander 22TB on a
2008 Sprinter/Freightliner chassis
1995 Geo Tracker (Toad)

CodyClassB
Explorer II
Explorer II
My RV currently have 1 deep cycle wet battery and I am planning to add another one . Does it have to be same type or can it be AGM battery ?

thanks

full_mosey
Explorer
Explorer
Desert Captain wrote:
In the boating industry there are two iron clad maxims: Nothing is either waterproof or maintenance free. AGM's offer many advantages but some of them are of little or no value relative to the significantly higher cost. As noted they are not maintenance free. Do you really need to mount them on their sides or upside down? I seriously doubt it. Do you have a smart charger that has a setting specifically for AGM's?

The point being that not everyone needs AGM's, they are wonderful batteries but come with a very hefty price tag compared to a quality deep cycle wet cell. The way most folks use their RV's, with the exception of full timers, a set of wet cell Trojans (6 or 12 volt properly installed), will give you more amps per buck than an AGM. :C


Another flimsy anti-AGM diatribe.

You see, we AGM folks don't go around spreading this type of DIS-information about your beloved wets.

What is this alleged AGM maintenance?

How about some actual facts and figures to back up significant and hefty price differences?

Isn't it the deep cycle wets that have the special charging requirements. Don't deep cycle wets:

1. dry out when left on a dumb single stage charger.

2. require equalization to prevent acid stratification.

3. emit H gas during charging.

4. emit acid mist during charging.

5. discharge faster and cannot be left unattended as long.

The negatives of wets ARE the positives of AGMs.

HTH;
John

How about responding without being antagonistic.

Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Explorer III
In the boating industry there are two iron clad maxims: Nothing is either waterproof or maintenance free. AGM's offer many advantages but some of them are of little or no value relative to the significantly higher cost. As noted they are not maintenance free. Do you really need to mount them on their sides or upside down? I seriously doubt it. Do you have a smart charger that has a setting specifically for AGM's?

The point being that not everyone needs AGM's, they are wonderful batteries but come with a very hefty price tag compared to a quality deep cycle wet cell. The way most folks use their RV's, with the exception of full timers, a set of wet cell Trojans (6 or 12 volt properly installed), will give you more amps per buck than an AGM. :C

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Gene,

It is not heating which causes the water to disappear. It is electrolysis, i.e. the splitting of water molecules into hydrogen and oxygen. This is referred to as the "gassing voltage" and it is temperature dependent. The colder it is the higher the voltage needs to be to cause gassing.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Gene_in_NE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Fastpaddler - I believe that most motorhomes (not all) will only charge the house battery if the "house battery switch" is in the "on" or "run" position. I set that switch to the "store" or "off" position if parked in my driveway and plugged into AC power. If not shut off, my charger is not smart enough to cut down the charging rate and will heat the water in the battery enough to vaporize the water. Some call it "boiling out the water".
2002 Trail-Lite Model 211-S w/5.7 Chevy (click View Profile)
Gene

Fastpaddler
Explorer
Explorer
But IF your rv is in the driveway with house battery switch OFF and you have the RV plugged into house AC power to charge your HOUSE BATTERY, DOES that happen or do you need to have the switch ON to enable the AC power through the power Converter to charge the battery(ies)?? I leave my switch on in that case but do I need to?? When the OP finds the switch he TOO needs to know the answer to my question. THanks anyone.

1775
Explorer
Explorer
Cody - I just looked at your other post. Doesn't Great West have a manual to download for your year and model? Your setup is a bit different from our Roadtreks. We have a battery switch on an interior wall. If we want to use just 12 volt power in the van, that switch gets put on. The way the newer RTs are wired, if we are going to run the generator or plug into shore power that switch has to be put on first. This switch seems similar to the switch that you found under your step with the battery. What our switch does is connect the battery. Off the battery is disconnected and offline. If we leave it on while the van is not in use - say for a day or more on the driveway, there are things in our Roadtreks that will drain the battery with that switch on. Our CO Detector and Propane Detector are on when that switch is on. If we are in the van we want them on but if the van is sitting on the driveway at home there is no reason to have them on and power draining from the battery. So if I am not using my van that battery switch is always off. Once we start a trip it goes on and stays on until the trip is over - and the Roadtrek is wired to charge the battery when driving or when connected to shore power or when the generator is running. Your Great West may be very different. Roadtrek has manuals that go back to the 1990's - Great West must have manuals available too. Try contacting them.

Take a look at my site, linked below my sig. While I write about Roadtreks, there may be things in article links on my Living in/How to page that are general enough to apply to your Great West also.
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