Mini-split in compartment
Hi all, I'm in the planning stages of a Class C boondocker, loaded with solar panels, a big 24v battery, all that. I'd like to install a mini-split up near the front of the vehicle, so when the sun...
Forum Discussion
Thank you for the detailed reply DrewE, it's exactly what I needed.
Thanks to everyone who replied. Definitely the generator and propane are imporant, I'm just trying to examine what is possible in this given scenario. I won't go boondocking without a generator or propane. Things just may get replaced, modified, or moved around a bit.
DrewE's suggestion to take some space from the inside may be the way to go. Nearly every model I've looked has the dinette there, it should be relatively uncomplicated to remove the dinette, cut and box out what it needs, as long as the mods stay below the cushion level of the dinette. Cut the dinette cabinet accordingly, and put it back.
As for tolerances, if I recall correctly the intake side needs 12". Given that I want the unit behind a closeable door, the exhaust will be set back maybe 2", 14" for the unit, then 12" intake clearance, makes a 28" deep box. Whichever compartment I mount it in will have an fully open bottom for air to move. I'd leave enough space on the sides to do the install and allow for vibration and flexing. Making it look normal from the outside will be more of a challenge.
In response to the solar panels adding heat, from what I've seen so far is that panels need sufficient airflow below them or they overheat and lose as much as 30% efficiency, so they should be mounted 2.5-3" above the deck for airflow. In that case, the air below the panels stays cooler, and the roof surface as well. With a lot of solar panels (1500-2000 watts), a significant percentage of the roof would be shielded from direct sun. That must help to some degree.
That said perhaps I should be considering a 12k unit, but I sure would like to know if 9k would do it, and somebody has to go first. I don't plan on hanging around any extremely hot environments (or cold for that matter), and I don't need it cooled below 75 degrees, so it won't be working too hard.
With a minimum of 1500w of solar, a 7200w lifepo4 battery, a mini split, a 24v amish hvac cooling upgrade on the fridge, an on-demand propane water heater, and an induction stove, the generator and propane loads should be much lower than usual.
I'm currently trying to clarify some details with a chinese company (royalstar) on some possible 24v Dc mini splits. It would be pretty great to keep that load off the inverter. Unfortunately there are spec discrepancies between their website, their catalog pdf, and a reseller's website. Not a good sign, but the idea is so tempting.
Thanks to everyone who replied. Definitely the generator and propane are imporant, I'm just trying to examine what is possible in this given scenario. I won't go boondocking without a generator or propane. Things just may get replaced, modified, or moved around a bit.
DrewE's suggestion to take some space from the inside may be the way to go. Nearly every model I've looked has the dinette there, it should be relatively uncomplicated to remove the dinette, cut and box out what it needs, as long as the mods stay below the cushion level of the dinette. Cut the dinette cabinet accordingly, and put it back.
As for tolerances, if I recall correctly the intake side needs 12". Given that I want the unit behind a closeable door, the exhaust will be set back maybe 2", 14" for the unit, then 12" intake clearance, makes a 28" deep box. Whichever compartment I mount it in will have an fully open bottom for air to move. I'd leave enough space on the sides to do the install and allow for vibration and flexing. Making it look normal from the outside will be more of a challenge.
In response to the solar panels adding heat, from what I've seen so far is that panels need sufficient airflow below them or they overheat and lose as much as 30% efficiency, so they should be mounted 2.5-3" above the deck for airflow. In that case, the air below the panels stays cooler, and the roof surface as well. With a lot of solar panels (1500-2000 watts), a significant percentage of the roof would be shielded from direct sun. That must help to some degree.
That said perhaps I should be considering a 12k unit, but I sure would like to know if 9k would do it, and somebody has to go first. I don't plan on hanging around any extremely hot environments (or cold for that matter), and I don't need it cooled below 75 degrees, so it won't be working too hard.
With a minimum of 1500w of solar, a 7200w lifepo4 battery, a mini split, a 24v amish hvac cooling upgrade on the fridge, an on-demand propane water heater, and an induction stove, the generator and propane loads should be much lower than usual.
I'm currently trying to clarify some details with a chinese company (royalstar) on some possible 24v Dc mini splits. It would be pretty great to keep that load off the inverter. Unfortunately there are spec discrepancies between their website, their catalog pdf, and a reseller's website. Not a good sign, but the idea is so tempting.
