new to class c

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Just picked up a well used class c lazy daze. last owner had it sitting in a storage yard for several years, so it's got a few issues. I've had a travel trailer for several years, so I know the basics of rv and camping, but there are some differences. Never had a generator before, and this one seems to run the starter but doesn't turn over the motor. I'm presented with a big green plate in the generator compartment and it looks pretty complicated to extract from the frame. Is there any where I can find graphics/diagrams on how this thing is put together so I can see if it's just a bad starter?
Another thing I'm confused about is this small 6x6x8 box mounted next to the differential. on the bottom of it is some sort of fitting with a cord attached to it and the other end of the cord on the side of the rv. I have no clue what this thing is.
As I said it's been sitting for a while and has a bunch of minor things that need working on. would be nice to have the main cabin door electrically lock along with the van doors, has anyone done this?
Needs tires and brakes before I take it anywhere, but looking forward to taking it out to play. Digging through electronics websites for updates, the thing still has a cassette player and analog tv antenna in it. wifi and cell phone boosters are sitting in a box in my office, trying to decide between the windgard and the king portable sat dishes and where the best place to mount them would be.

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I've got an e-mail in to the area rep for trimark (apparently he's on vacation) to see if I can get that type of unit. I think the hardest part will be running the wire through the door into the cab.

[CharlesinGA]

Butch50 wrote:

DaCrema wrote:
I do not know of a RV that uses the same locking system for the cab and the house doors. That is a automotive issue that would be difficult to surmount. Though I agree it would be a nice feature.

The Winnebago View I use to have had that feature. Lock the cab and it locked the camper door also. Walk back to the rig and press the key fob once it unlocked the drivers door and hit it a second time and it unlocked the passenger door plus the camper door.

I posted this very thing this morning, but apparently my phone didn't bother to send it.

TriMark makes virtually all RV door lock systems, and they do make one that has a key deadbolt, a second key for the regular lock, and the electric actuation also.

This is the design my View has.

TriMark exterior personnel door latch mechanisms, many with optional electric actuation.

Winnebago has had a problem on some of the Views with the load of the lock mechanism burning up the SCREEM, the security module in the vehicle. They have had to make available a kit using a relay to switch the power to the door lock, taking the load off the security module.

Charles

[Dusty_R]

That cable/cord looks like it is hooked to an air blow off valve for dumping water from the bottom of a pressure tank.

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thanks John,
I'm thinking it might have something to do with the tow system. there's what looks like an air chuck sticking out the back next to the trailer hitch, but no big electrical plug, (just the 4 pin) I know the previous owner towed a car at some point.

[DaCrema]

I crawled under my LD, a 2007 E450, and did not see that box assembly in that location or else where. Though given the difference in model year, I could easily have something that does the same job but looks very different - what ever job the devise does.
Hopefully someone here can id the devise. This is something the LD forum would be good at. There are a couple of folks there very well versed on the older RVs.
I almost did not reply, but did not want you to think I forgot about you.
John

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still trying to figure out what this box does.

[Butch50]

"I'm looking for an electric actuated door latch for my class c motor home. The cab has electric door locks and I'd like to be able to lock the rv door with the same system. will your 030-2650 with the electric actuators do this?
TK (Nick)- Yes that handle does allow power actuation"


That sounds interesting but how are you going to get the actuator into the door? You would almost have to reskin the door so you would have access to the inside section of the door. Make sure you keep us informed as you continue on with this process as I would be interested in it also.

[DaCrema]

You might find this site helpful: http://lazydazearticles.blogspot.com/p/whats-this-all-about.html

[DaCrema]

I had to replace the generator fuel pump on my o7 Lazy Daze Mid Bath. The generator is an Onan 4000 Microquiet. While from a technical point of view it is not a difficult job, it is a very involved. I took pictures with a cell phone at each point so I could find my way back down the path. On this vintage Onan almost all the wires are white so it is difficult just looking at a wire to figure out where it goes on a diagram. My LD came with the original documents provided by Lazy Daze and the Onan manuals were part of that. But the lack of color codes made fault checking and wire tracing difficult. If your Onan has all white be sure to mark them or make a note of some kind. I had a ground that needed to go to ground but was very afraid to do it. As far as other work on the generator goes, the spark plug was easy as was the oil change. The air filter is a little involved because of the tight fit. Luck was with me as my carb was not plugged up with bad gas. Though once the air cleaner assembly is off carb removal did not look that difficult. You have to get past the green hatch to do that work though.
Good luck with the RV! Welcome to the Lazy Daze cult.

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progress from this weekend. used it for 2 tailgate parties which went well. used the honda portable gen for power since the onan still wasn't starting. making progress on that though, house batteries are now fully charged, and starter is engaging now. gen still isn't starting. could be bad gas, bad spark, etc. will further.
got a reply from the company that makes power door locks,
I'm looking for an electric actuated door latch for my class c motor home. The cab has electric door locks and I'd like to be able to lock the rv door with the same system. will your 030-2650 with the electric actuators do this?
TK (Nick)- Yes that handle does allow power actuation


What kind of actuation signal/power is required?
The signal to the actuator is a 400ms, 12V, ~3.3A signal. Our signal is on two lines, and reversing the polarity is how you lock and unlock the system. When not active they can float, or both left at a single polarity (usually ground)

Do you have a national / mail order distributor?
We sell the from our S&R at 1-800-431-8616, or we have Vico representatives if you need more hands on or larger orders:
http://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/SalesRep.aspx


looks like something that can be done if I can get the wires through the door.

[Butch50]

DaCrema wrote:
I do not know of a RV that uses the same locking system for the cab and the house doors. That is a automotive issue that would be difficult to surmount. Though I agree it would be a nice feature.

The Winnebago View I use to have had that feature. Lock the cab and it locked the camper door also. Walk back to the rig and press the key fob once it unlocked the drivers door and hit it a second time and it unlocked the passenger door plus the camper door.

[DaCrema]

I do not know of a RV that uses the same locking system for the cab and the house doors. That is a automotive issue that would be difficult to surmount. Though I agree it would be a nice feature.

Defiantly go to the Lazy Daze Owners group.

When posting questions about the generator use a cell phone camera to take a pic of the generator face (the green door). That door should come off so you can access the generator for most most of the maintenance work.

The house batteries on a Laze Daze are separate from the cab. The electric door locks belong to the cab's (Ford) electrical system. There should be plenty of room to work on the cab's battery under the hood. If the house battery system is still stock Lazy Daze setup (no changes over the years) the two 6v batteries should be on a drawer that slides out for easier access. Some people remove the drawer so they can add the next size up 6v batteries. My rig was well cared for by the previous owner, but in the short time I owned the rig the drawer's latches started sticking.

Re the box on the underside. I have no clue with out pictures.

[DrewE]

Your generator is a different model/family than mine, so the comments about the location of the starter may not apply. I would still expect that theres some access panel in the green case you can see, though I'm not familiar at all with your particular model so I might be mistaken.

My generator starter uses somewhere in the general vicinity of 100A when cranking, obviously a little more for the first second when it's having to overcome the inertia of the engine not rotating at all. Measuring voltages while cranking at various places will tell you if and where the voltage may be dropping.

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maybe it's a form of laziness. all my other cars you just push a button and it locks all the doors, or unlocks them as you walk up instead of walking around the vehicle. manual keys are still intact, plus it connects with the alarm system. one button and you know you are secure.