Newbie, looking at 28-30' rigs

Something to watch out for is the weight per axle. In 2008 Ford increased the load capability on the E350 and E450 chassis, but I think most or all the extra capability was added to the front axle where needed least for long motor homes with shorter wheel bases. I have read on this forum numerous times over the years how the rear of "some" of the longest of E450s are carrying more weight than designed for when loaded for a trip with people, fresh water, food, and gear (no bricks), maybe more than the tires themselves are rated for. That could be why some people with huge rigs experience tire blow outs.

I am no expert here. I mention all this just to bring this into discussion. Hopefully people with real weight numbers will share. Those with longer wheel bases and shorter rear over-hangs will likely have more favorable figures because more weight is brought forward, better distributed between the two axles.

There are so many factors in this discussion which is why it is easy and safe to suggest a Super-C once you get into the 30's length. I am sure there are some decent E450s over 30 feet, but don't assume they are all decent in load capability. Do your research on the specific rig(s) of interest to you. Some RV manufactures are better than others in using lighter weight construction materials along with consideration to "weight distribution". Price often is an indicator, but no guarantee either.

Mich F wrote:

4kidsand2dogs wrote:
How much does a friggin 32' rig weigh? I'm looking at the numbers and all the manufacturer gives you is the weight restrictions, not the dry weight or GVW. Without weighing (something you would do after purchase) how are you suppose to do the math ahead of time?

I just posted on another thread of yours, and can see why you are confused. You are getting some just plain wrong information. People like to generalize and make blanket statements. If you look at those stickers, all the information you need is right there. The Ford E450 has a GVWR of 14,500#. The OCCC figure, is the weight of occupants and cargo carrying ability you have on that vehicle, that would bring you up to the GVWR. If you deducted that OCCC figure from the GVWR, that gives you the weight of the vehicle including full fuel tank and engine fluids (it doesn't include any fresh water in the tank).
You don't need a Super C or a Class A to get a half decent OCCC. The 31H has an OCCC of somewhere around 3,000#, which is actually more than a lot of Class As that a number of people are telling you that you need. My 31K has an OCCC of 3,275#.
On the other hand, I have an older 2001 31C, which is actually about a foot shorter than my 31K. That vehicle has an OCCC of just a little over 1,000#, which wouldn't be too hard to meet or exceed.

Thank you! Actually, thank you for everyone that came back to help me sort this out and point me towards the OCCC #!

Funny you mention the 31K. I somehow overlooked this model initially but realized it was the floor plan I liked without a rear slide! So it actually gives us the most room with the most cargo capacity. Now its just deciding if the bunk beds are worth it in the long run as the kids get older and as someone mentioned above giving the a fulltime bed, so they are out of my way cooking.

Jopopsy wrote:


Yep. My 31H has 2903 pounds of OCCC.

No matter how many times we post our OCCC figures, people say E450 Class Cs don't have enough OCCC. These people must be hauling bricks around. Maybe they can't see our posts. :B I've posted a number of times that these Cs have higher OCCC ratings than a lot of Class As, that somehow, supposedly have higher OCCCs than Class Cs.
We have such high OCCCs for a reason. They are far from being the most luxurious MHs on the road, but you're paying that weight penalty either for all the glitz. ;)

Accommodating for kids, you can't beat the large over-the-cab bed of a class C. With 4 kids, everyone having full-time beds limits your pickings to a select few like this where a Super-C is the chassis that can handle it best.

I personally would want everyone to have their full time bed so the living/kitchen area is available no matter who gets to sleep first or wakes up last.




I like this one better, without a slide out on the right side to keep a full length awning area open for people to congregate most comfortably. A slide out under the primary awning would quickly become an irritant to me.

We were looking at the same issues, kids, lots of travel, towing a vehicle with us, etc, etc. Ended up with a 2008 Gulfstream Super C 6341. Had a Ford E450 based C prior that just didnt fit us (no slides). The Super C has bunk beds and is much easier to get comfortable in (no setting up beds, they are all set).

We will most likely be moving on from it when the kids are a little older as we and the DW will be retiring and mostly just traveling with the two of us /o kids. wont need to bunks and will most likely move on to something more luxurious for just a couple of retirees.

The Super C is only 34', 6' longer than our first C, I like how it drives better also.

With 4 kids I would seriously consider bunk beds with a bunk over the cab, just for the ease of set-up and room.

Good luck!

Mich F wrote:

4kidsand2dogs wrote:
How much does a friggin 32' rig weigh? I'm looking at the numbers and all the manufacturer gives you is the weight restrictions, not the dry weight or GVW. Without weighing (something you would do after purchase) how are you suppose to do the math ahead of time?

I just posted on another thread of yours, and can see why you are confused. You are getting some just plain wrong information. People like to generalize and make blanket statements. If you look at those stickers, all the information you need is right there. The Ford E450 has a GVWR of 14,500#. The OCCC figure, is the weight of occupants and cargo carrying ability you have on that vehicle, that would bring you up to the GVWR. If you deducted that OCCC figure from the GVWR, that gives you the weight of the vehicle including full fuel tank and engine fluids (it doesn't include any fresh water in the tank).
You don't need a Super C or a Class A to get a half decent OCCC. The 31H has an OCCC of somewhere around 3,000#, which is actually more than a lot of Class As that a number of people are telling you that you need. My 31K has an OCCC of 3,275#.
On the other hand, I have an older 2001 31C, which is actually about a foot shorter than my 31K. That vehicle has an OCCC of just a little over 1,000#, which wouldn't be too hard to meet or exceed.

Yep. My 31H has 2903 pounds of OCCC.

4kidsand2dogs wrote:
How much does a friggin 32' rig weigh? I'm looking at the numbers and all the manufacturer gives you is the weight restrictions, not the dry weight or GVW. Without weighing (something you would do after purchase) how are you suppose to do the math ahead of time?

I just posted on another thread of yours, and can see why you are confused. You are getting some just plain wrong information. People like to generalize and make blanket statements. If you look at those stickers, all the information you need is right there. The Ford E450 has a GVWR of 14,500#. The OCCC figure, is the weight of occupants and cargo carrying ability you have on that vehicle, that would bring you up to the GVWR. If you deducted that OCCC figure from the GVWR, that gives you the weight of the vehicle including full fuel tank and engine fluids (it doesn't include any fresh water in the tank).
You don't need a Super C or a Class A to get a half decent OCCC. The 31H has an OCCC of somewhere around 3,000#, which is actually more than a lot of Class As that a number of people are telling you that you need. My 31K has an OCCC of 3,275#.
On the other hand, I have an older 2001 31C, which is actually about a foot shorter than my 31K. That vehicle has an OCCC of just a little over 1,000#, which wouldn't be too hard to meet or exceed.

4kidsand2dogs wrote:
How much does a friggin 32' rig weigh? I'm looking at the numbers and all the manufacturer gives you is the weight restrictions, not the dry weight or GVW. Without weighing (something you would do after purchase) how are you suppose to do the math ahead of time?

Every motorized RV (the past 15 years at least) had a sticker somewhere inside that detailed how much it weighed and how much it could carry. Initially, this was by industry (RVIA) standards, and detailed the components of the load, including an allowance for carrying enough people to fill the beds. Sometime after 2004 the DOT got involved, changed the rules about what goes on the sticker, made no allowance for people, just let the buyer figure out load as people plus cargo.

You have to look at the sticker in the individual motorhome (Winnebago liked to put in a bedroom closet, I've seen in inside other cabinets for other brands). Sometimes an RV manufacturer will brochure an "empty weight" which is truly empty without options, but that is almost useless because nobody buys the stripped down RV.

Options include stuff like spare tires, house batteries, generators, TV sets, entertainment systems, air conditioners (one or more), water filters, winterization kits, dual pane windows, waste tank heating systems, awnings, ladders, trailer hitches. 25 pounds here, 400 pounds there, these things add up and start cutting into your carrying capacity.

Thus most of the more honest manufacturers do not put a bogus empty weight in a brochure, the problem you are likely struggling with, because you want to make your choices from a brochure carrying capacity. That just doesn't work, unless you know exactly what the options are, and how much each adds to the weight.

While it is a good idea to weigh after purchase (actually a better idea to weigh after you load it) the weight sticker somewhere in each individual RV gives you a pretty good idea of your starting point for load planning. Currently, motorized RV have to be weighed before leaving the factory (DOT rules) and the weight sticker has to be consistent with weighing result.

Because you are four kids and two dogs, and are looking at the maximum size C that can be built on a E-series or Express chassis, is why i recommended looking at A gassers in the same length range. The van chassis is marginal at this size, while a 16,000 to 18,000 bare chassis has capacity to spare (until you get longer and start adding more slideouts).

The other option, which includes some C's with over the cab bunk rooms, would be the Super-C category built on Class 5 (or larger) cab-chassis, with capacities in the 16,000 to 19,000 pound range. But you specified a length, most Super-C's are much longer, and if you are not careful with your shopping, you will find that 36-38 foot Super-C motorhomes can be as marginal on load capacity as 30-32 C's on Class 4 van chassis. Manufacturers are building as much house as the truck can carry, because that's what the buyers buy,.

4kidsand2dogs wrote:
How much does a friggin 32' rig weigh? I'm looking at the numbers and all the manufacturer gives you is the weight restrictions, not the dry weight or GVW. Without weighing (something you would do after purchase) how are you suppose to do the math ahead of time?

You ask the Million Dollar question.

Actually, I believe every motor home must be equipped with a sticker supplied by the RV manufacture, detailing weight limitations considering specific "givens" such as dry weight, fuel, and propane, and the amount of weight you can add yourself. On our rig, that sticker is located on the inside of a kitchen cabinet door.

Beware that a few rigs are so close to the limit straight out the factory that you have to carry your family in a different vehicle. That is crazy. My point here is, since you are carrying a 6 person family, do NOT take this issue lightly. That is why I suggested you look at Super-Cs. A standard class C in 30-32 length and multiple slide outs is going to be a very close call for you, maybe a bust with gear, food, clothes, and fresh water.

One post not long ago, a fellow bought a brand new 2015 tiny motor home built on a Promaster chassis. His rig could barely carry himself, his wife and some personal effects. He was not able to carry fresh water. He was very upset that anyone would make a motor home with such weight limitations.

In regards to what weight you will add, you have to add it up yourself, what your family weighs, 8.34 pounds per gallon of water, and all the rest. That is why it is good to have some built-in margin, especially for those weekend get-aways when you bring along your kid's friends and their pup tents, etc.

How much does a friggin 32' rig weigh? I'm looking at the numbers and all the manufacturer gives you is the weight restrictions, not the dry weight or GVW. Without weighing (something you would do after purchase) how are you suppose to do the math ahead of time?