Performance upgrade options for V10

[Fish_mojo]

I have a 2006 Kodiak 22' B+ with the 6.8L V10. It really feels like a dog climbing mountain passes, continually downshifting and jumping RPM's to keep up. 6% grades really affect it.

Are there any reasonable power upgrades that can be considered? Banks, tuning options? Anything? Looking for a balance of power vs fuel economy. Don't want to make changes that will drop fuel mileage.

[jamesk1]

I have found that mine will hold a gear a lot better (less downshifting) when I use the tow-haul button.

[Taco]

what rear gears do you have. With cruise at 70 as soon as I hit a hill that I know I will lose speed on I put the pedal to the floor. This drops to 4th gear and 3800 rpm with a 4.56 rear. It will rarely ever drop below 58 where it shifts to 3rd. This is a 32 ft class c towing 5000 lbs.

[j-d]

This is pretty much a "Chip" thread, but Tire Pressures worked into the discussion. That 65-Front and 80-Rear is nothing but the pressures to be used if a pre-2008 E-Series with 4600-lb front axle is loaded to front axle max. Most C's, especially the shorter ones, run way less than 4600-front. An actual weight (truck scale) and adjustment of tire pressure to that weight, makes a big difference in handling. Rear tires, not so much, but handling (and tracking!) are very sensitive to front tire pressure.

[Vulcan_Rider]

smkettner wrote:
The benefit will be when it does not need to downshift or just to 3rd instead of second.

Maybe not on it's own.
Not knowing exactly what the inputs to the electronic transmission control ARE....it's hard to say what would happen and when.

The downside probably would be worse gas mileage......and it's bad enough already.

[time2roll]

Fish mojo wrote:

smkettner wrote:
If it seems to downshift too easy consider new differential gears.

What RPM are you turning in OD? What speed?

If I recall, 2100 rpm at 65 in OD. Going up hill downshift hits 3500 rpm to 3rd, if it really lags, hits around 4200 rpm when it kicks down to 2nd.

Peak torque is close to 4000 with peak horsepower close to 5000 rpm. If you want to get up the hills the engine needs to rev up to make that power.

I could see going 10% to 20% lower gear ratio. This would put you closer to 2300/2500 cruising in OD. The other gears it will also run higher if it downshifts. The benefit will be when it does not need to downshift or just to 3rd instead of second.

[harley-dave]

Gears and RPM are your friend with these. OD until you loose speed to 58-60. Out of OD and she'll pull hard. When she drops to 50-55 downshift to 3rd. Let the RPM rev as needed. Our 31' C towing 2200 pounds can pull up a 6-7 % grade at 50-60 MPH this way. No crazy gear shifting. If its really steep go to 2 at 45 and she can normally hold it. Occasionally we've been stuck behind a semi at 20-25 and she can usually pull it back up to 55. No speed demon that's for sure but not bad for 16000 pounds.

Dave

[Vulcan_Rider]

Hank85713 wrote:

Just read your last post, the wander I found can be taken care of with the airbags at around 65psi, the front tires at 65 also. Rears at 70-75. What did you do to yours?

Standard recommended pressure: 65 front, 80 rear.
28" Winnie with nothing towed.

[tatest]

Peak horsepower of the version of the V-10 used in the E-series could be boosted by 20% if there was room for exhaust headers, and the ECM is reprogrammed to raise the torque peak to a higher RPM range. There are Banks packages to do this for the two-valve V-10 in F-series and the F-53 motorhome chassis, but the headers don't fit the E-series engine room. Somebody else may have a high-flow exhaust that fits.

This doesn't help your problem with high revs. To raise the peak horsepower, it is necessary to extend the already impressive torque curve to a higher RPM, so to get 360 HP rather than the factory 295-305, you have to get it at 4800-5200 RPM, rather than the 4500-5000 range that gives you around 300 HP now.

If you want big torque and higher power at lower RPM, you need a bigger engine, or a supercharger that effectively makes a smaller engine bigger, in terms of the amount of air pumped through. There was once a kit that used a positive-displacement (Rootes-type) blower on the V-10 to increase airflow and torque 30-40% across the whole RPM range, but this was designed for pickup truck applications and probably does not fit the space of an E-series engine compartment.

[Hank85713]

Mike at 5star really helps the v10. It will still shift sometimes and scream at ya but otherwise it makes it more civilized to drive. remember it is an electric throttle and no matter what ya do it does what it wants rpms wise. Mikes tuner does make it more controllable and takes the stress of 4500-5000rpm trips.

The engine really is pretty doggy no matter what anyone says, just that it is the only big engine in general use anymore. Once rollin it does ok till it has to do something different then it can get a little wild. We have 28 ft aspect and it weighs in around 13K we pull a 2800 lb hyundai

I got mine during the christmas sale, around $350, they should run aroun $400 or so. Give him a call he dont bite.

Just read your last post, the wander I found can be taken care of with the airbags at around 65psi, the front tires at 65 also. Rears at 70-75. What did you do to yours?

[Vulcan_Rider]

smkettner wrote:
If it seems to downshift too easy consider new differential gears.

Are you really suggesting changing the final drive ratio ??

I don't think that's good advice AT ALL and likely would be somewhat conter-productive.

The Ford E-series wasn't really made for motor home use.
I immediately noticed the "wandering" problem and a bit later the odd transmission behavior.

The shop fixed the handling problem last week, even though I haven't test driven it yet. If this "chip change" for the tranny isn't too expensive, it will be next on my upgrade list.

With those two changes, it will almost be a decent vehicle.....almost.

[Fish_mojo]

smkettner wrote:
If it seems to downshift too easy consider new differential gears.

What RPM are you turning in OD? What speed?

If I recall, 2100 rpm at 65 in OD. Going up hill downshift hits 3500 rpm to 3rd, if it really lags, hits around 4200 rpm when it kicks down to 2nd.

[time2roll]

If it seems to downshift too easy consider new differential gears.

What RPM are you turning in OD? What speed?

[Vulcan_Rider]

Grumpy374 wrote:

Have it on my 2012 V-10 and would not be without it.

I went to their site.
The description of that change was easy to find; the details, not so much.
What's the approx. price and is it "user installable" ??

[Vulcan_Rider]

klutchdust wrote:
I have found that when approaching a grade I turn off cruise control and I control the speed myself.

I have NO use for chips, tuners or the like as I have friends that have such things and they have issues.

I agree with the first sentence but not the second one, necessarily.

The "double downshift" is abrupt and can't be good for the transmission or engine. Once there, mine STAYS there for much longer than it should need to.

I can almost eliminate the problem, on moderate grades, with manual control but will be checking the site mentioned for the transmission "fix".

[Oldme]

Gears are your friend.

It make no difference if you are going up or downhill.
The transmission will down shift to keep it in the best torque range and
over stress the motor going uphill.

You are moving a lot of weight.
Even your family car will downshift in the mountains.

Also:

Proper RV braking on a downgrade From California DMV.

The use of brakes on a long and/or steep downgrade is only a supplement to the braking effect of the engine.

Once the vehicle is in the proper low gear, the following is a proper braking technique:
(1) Apply the brakes just hard enough to feel a definite slowdown.
(2) When your speed has been reduced to approximately five mph below your "safe" speed, release the brakes. This brake application should last for about three seconds.
(3) When your speed has increased to your "safe" speed, repeat steps 1 and 2.