Question on my gen set not staying running agian

[tpcollins]

I've made numerous posts here about my gen set not staying running. With all of the help from here, it may boiled down to the bands having a slick coating of whatever and needs to be cleaned off. My son who's an electrician said he could "hot wire" the backup circuit board I have for it as he and others here say it's not sensing the voltage needed to keep it running.

So I've popped the access cover to the brushes and I can see a band underneath the left brush. I assume I can remove those 2 screws and lift the brushes and housing out to expose these bands.

My concern is how much stuff is going to come flying out when I do and will it require 3 thumbs to put it back together? Thanks.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28949286.cfm

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29074539.cfm

[tpcollins]

...?

[tpcollins]

Well it's one step forward and two steps backwards. Cleaned the rings off with my homemade tool, blew it off afterwards with my air hose, cranked it up and it ran like a charm!

Wanted to work on getting the inside cleaned so I turned the main overhead AC on. Went in inside the house for about 10 minutes and came back out and nothing was running. Tried to restart the gen set and it wouldn't stay running. Ah . . . noticed one of the side circuit breaker had kicked off so I reset it - wouldn't start. But when I went inside the MH, I smelled something like burnt rubber and may have seen as bit of smoke in the front cab - not really sure.

I was going to let it rest so I went and turn the thermostat control to fan and then plugged the shore power to my garage. The fan took off. I wasn't going to turn the AC on as it usually blows my 20 amp garage fuse.

So I went back inside and when I came out the fan wasn't running. I sprayed electrical cleaner in the transfer switch contacts and neither that dang AC or fan will not run. I don't see any evidence of a burnt fuse on the front fuse and relay board and an ohm meter on the AC fuse seems ok.

It's 92 degrees right now so I'll wait until the morning and go up top and pop the cover off to see if there's any type of fuse or burnt wiring. Were planning to take the grandkids to Yogi Bear Park around July 11 - I'm pizzed!

[10forty2]

I had to remove my brush blocks to get to the slip rings and clean them on my Onan 5500. It wasn't a big deal for me. A couple of screws and the whole brush assembly came out...the brushes were under slight tension from the springs, but not so bad that they came flying out. I simply sprayed carb cleaner on the slip rings while the engine turned and then replaced the brushes. It's been running and powering great ever since. I did find out the truth of the rule of less than 1/4 tank of fuel, the genset will shut off....... 😉

[tpcollins]

Twomed - it's propane

Chris - I was going to get that Slick Stick even with the $13 extra for shipping but I don't have the clearance to access from the side. I would have to pull the front bumper off and move the entire generator forward. Not that big of a deal except the clamps and bolts for the muffler could be tough to get off without screwing them up.

I made a DIY Slick Stick and I'm waiting for the epoxy to harden - 220 wet sandpaper on one end and a piece of a scrub pad on the other. The bands look dirty but they don't actually looked glazed. I'll see how this works fist.

[Chris_Bryant]

Spend $20 and buy the Flight Systems Slick Stick:

[Twomed]

You can bump it around and clean it without removing the brush block.

Try running 12v to the fuel pump directly... that has worked for some of us.

Good Luck