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Recommendations for Parking Surface for Diesel Pusher

Snow_Hawk
Explorer
Explorer
My wife and I have ordered a Newmar diesel pusher. We currently park our 39' Montana fifth wheel on a gravel drive way, and have for years. The diesel pusher will takes its place. Ideally I would like to have a cement pad for the new rig which I think is the best option but up here in Mass. that could be very expensive.

I have always been told that parking anything on a grass surface is not good for the vehicle because the grass will hold moisture. I wasn't too concerned about parking it on gravel since that drains well and we haven't noticed any real rust or issues with our fifth wheel. My wife raised the question and this DP is a much bigger investment so I want to do things right. Any feedback or recommendation is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Snow Hawk

2010 Montana 3750FL Fifth Wheel

2011 F350 4X4 Lariat CC, 6.7, Dually, FX4 Pkg, Camper Pkg, Snow Plow Pkg, Chrome Package, 3.73 Limited Slip, ESF, Rhino Liner, Remote Start, Security System, bu camera, navigation, moon roof, dual alternators
30 REPLIES 30

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am General Contractor, but working alone and simply can't take big concrete job as concrete will not wait for me to finish like the pavers did.
Anyway, what I know about good concrete is that it needs to be vibrated to release air bubbles and be really strong.
I did vibrate several smaller pads and they never had even haircracks.
I hire contractors to lay 300 tons of my house foundation and it took 7 people to pour concrete with vibrators. No cracks.
But when I observe other contractors working in the area - they never use vibrators.
So I yet have to see pad in CA bigger than 8' with no crack on it.
We do have very nasty clay here who in summer can develop ground cracks big enough to slide your hand in.
Once more time I will recommend recycled concrete base rock.
Our county is selling it for like $14 a ton, so next to nothing and I have my RV driveway done with it like 15 years ago, still semi-solid and easy to blow the leaves from.

Bruce_Brown
Moderator
Moderator
If not done right concrete will crack anywhere.

We're in the snow belt, our average temp last February was 6F - it gets cold here.

The concrete in one garage, which we did not build, is cracked in many places. The concrete in our big garage, which we did build, isn't. We built it in 2001, so I'm thinking if it was going to crack it probably would have by now.

The key is ground preparation, plenty of reinforcement, and relief cuts.

As you can see, we used rebar, mesh, and fiber reinforced concrete. You only have one chance to do it right the first time, skimping on the prep work is wasting foolish $$$.

Here is the before and where our MH now lives;





There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Than in CA concrete always crack.
I just put 44,000 lb of pavers on my driveway. Everything on slope what would make heck of the job with concrete.
I wish my back was 20 years younger, but not only results are very nice as I was able to form flower beds, sidewalks and garbage cans pad, but right after the finish come project with fountain that needs power conduit.
I just pop row of pavers, scrape some gravel under, lay the conduit and put everything back.

Tom_Barb
Explorer
Explorer
jwmII wrote:

A vapor barrier laid down before pouring a concrete slab definitely helps but it is not the cure all you would think it is as the concrete above the vapor barrier will absorb moisture and then give it up so it can attack the tires. The best barrier remains metal or plastic right on the tire footprint occupying an area around each tire.


I'm not a fan of concrete pads here in the great north west, they get algae / slimey and need to be pressure washed every year. plus they are permanent, you can't change them with out a lot of work and disposal fees.
2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JL toad.

Tom_Barb
Explorer
Explorer
Our coach sets on a pad that is 12-18 inches of 5/8ths" minus crushed granet, 50' long and 4" higher than the shrouding area.

It has been packed and repacked every time we bring the RVs home. Its raked level and repacked every year, for the last 30 years. Believe me it is in better condition than most highways. We have never had any problems created by our parking pad.

Tire O zone ?? YGTBSM you'll never have a problem, except the $ changing them every 10 years.
2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JL toad.

Snow_Hawk
Explorer
Explorer
Bruce Brown wrote:
Kayteg1 wrote:
Bruce Brown wrote:
Gravel is fine, a garage is better, a heated garage is the best. :B

I think cooled garage will beat heated garage 🙂

Location, location, location.

Seeing as the OP is "Snow Hawk" and his location is Massachusetts, I'm thinking in this case he'd have all the natural cooling he could stand. :B

Too hot - uncomfortable.

Too cold - things freeze and break.

I'll stick with the heated garage. :W


You bet, we have all kinds of weather her in MA. We will take delivery of our brand new Newmar Ventanna LE 4037 between the December 10 and 13th it looks like. I have to figure this driveway out soon if I want to go with something other than gravel.
Snow Hawk

2010 Montana 3750FL Fifth Wheel

2011 F350 4X4 Lariat CC, 6.7, Dually, FX4 Pkg, Camper Pkg, Snow Plow Pkg, Chrome Package, 3.73 Limited Slip, ESF, Rhino Liner, Remote Start, Security System, bu camera, navigation, moon roof, dual alternators

two-niner
Explorer
Explorer
jwmll is absolutely correct. DW went to the 99cent store and purchased large dining table placemats. They are flexible and have a solid plastic top.

They fit perfectly under the tire footprint, a great barrier between the concrete and the rubber.

jwmII
Explorer
Explorer
Bruce Brown wrote:
jwmII wrote:
Any surface you park on is going to allow moisture up around the tires thus contributing to dry rot of your tires. This includes dirt, gravel, concrete, wood and any other porous surface. Place the tires on metal such as galvanized or aluminum roof flashing. Plastics will work for you as well. Place mats of plastic or cutting boards, etc.
Jacking the vehicle up so the tires clear the floor works too. Get some sheet metal scraps from the local tin shop. Those will work too.

You missed one option; concrete with a vapor barrier. Seeing as the OP is considering concrete, and hasn't poured anything yet, adding a vapor barrier would be cheap, easy, and effective.






A vapor barrier laid down before pouring a concrete slab definitely helps but it is not the cure all you would think it is as the concrete above the vapor barrier will absorb moisture and then give it up so it can attack the tires. The best barrier remains metal or plastic right on the tire footprint occupying an area around each tire.
jwmII

Bruce_Brown
Moderator
Moderator
Kayteg1 wrote:
Bruce Brown wrote:
Gravel is fine, a garage is better, a heated garage is the best. :B

I think cooled garage will beat heated garage 🙂

Location, location, location.

Seeing as the OP is "Snow Hawk" and his location is Massachusetts, I'm thinking in this case he'd have all the natural cooling he could stand. :B

Too hot - uncomfortable.

Too cold - things freeze and break.

I'll stick with the heated garage. :W
There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Bruce Brown wrote:
Gravel is fine, a garage is better, a heated garage is the best. :B

I think cooled garage will beat heated garage 🙂

Bruce_Brown
Moderator
Moderator
jwmII wrote:
Any surface you park on is going to allow moisture up around the tires thus contributing to dry rot of your tires. This includes dirt, gravel, concrete, wood and any other porous surface. Place the tires on metal such as galvanized or aluminum roof flashing. Plastics will work for you as well. Place mats of plastic or cutting boards, etc.
Jacking the vehicle up so the tires clear the floor works too. Get some sheet metal scraps from the local tin shop. Those will work too.

You missed one option; concrete with a vapor barrier. Seeing as the OP is considering concrete, and hasn't poured anything yet, adding a vapor barrier would be cheap, easy, and effective.
There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910

Bruce_Brown
Moderator
Moderator
Gravel is fine, a garage is better, a heated garage is the best. :B
There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910

jwmII
Explorer
Explorer
Any surface you park on is going to allow moisture up around the tires thus contributing to dry rot of your tires. This includes dirt, gravel, concrete, wood and any other porous surface. Place the tires on metal such as galvanized or aluminum roof flashing. Plastics will work for you as well. Place mats of plastic or cutting boards, etc.
Jacking the vehicle up so the tires clear the floor works too. Get some sheet metal scraps from the local tin shop. Those will work too.
jwmII

Empty_Nest__Soo
Explorer
Explorer
As soon as I bought the coach last year, I had a local excavator put in a driveway/pad in back of our house off the side street. He removed topsoil and made the bottom level (our yard slopes gently from back to front). He used right at 60 tons of crusher run limestone for the driveway/pad, which was 12’ wide and 80’ long, with a generous flare at the street end. I think that turned out to be about 8 or 9 inches thick, just eyeballing it. He compacted all with a large roller, such as one would expect to see on highway construction.

Anyhow, I feel that concrete would be the only surface that would be superior to the result with crusher run limestone done right. I’m very happy with it.

Wayne
Wayne & Michelle

1997 Safari Sahara 3540