Test Driving a Coach

[barmcd]

How do you do it?

What types of driving should you include?

What should you look and listen for.

[Dale_Traveling]

I got lucky when I was shopping. Salesman handed me the keys and said have fun just don't run it out of gas. Just the Navigator and myself in the coach and I drove it like I stole it. Navigator got a lesson on limiting movement inside a moving coach and then I got a lesson, which include verbal and physical feedback, on how to tell her what I'm about to do.

My bigs on the drive -
a. Straight line stopping and a functional antilock (ensure passengers are ready before standing on the brakes).
b. Smooth shifting thru the gears, both up and down.
c. Smooth acceleration of the engine. No hesitation or drop outs.
d. Reasonable visual blind spots.
e. No steering wheel shake at both low speed (bent wheel) or high speed (wheel balance, front end wear).
f. Reasonable lane wonder (suspension, alignment).
g. All dash indicators function properly.
h. Reasonable wind, road, engine and house noise.
i. Reasonable steering null (how much input before the coach moves).

I was shopping used so there was some expectation of noise, vibration and such which is why I stated reasonable. Each prospective owner will have limits on what might be acceptable and what isn't. Some evals may need a knowledgeable drive to assess also. Remember anything you don't like you can walk away from or use to negociate the price down. Lane wonder could just be over inflated tires but use it as an unknown that will cost you to have checked post sale.

[barmcd]

I don't think I would ever agree to buy a vehicle before the test ride--even with a new one. I ordered a 2015 Corvette from my local dealer and after it arrived I insisted on a test drive it before we signed the paperwork.

[DanTheRVMan]

Executive wrote:
Most likely the dealer's insurance required the contract prior to allowing a test drive. As long as there's a "weasel" clause, you shouldn't have any issues with it..I know I wouldn't....Dennis

Normaly you give great advice

The weasel clause in a contact means you can higher an attorney to combat the opposing parties attorney to finally agree the contract is void. I need that like a whole in my head.

[ncrowley]

You want to drive the coach at highway speeds and on bumpy rods. You want to see how it turns - but be sure you know how to make a safe turn. There are videos on the web about how to drive a class A. It is a good idea to review them before you go.

I would not go anywhere that forces you to sign a purchase agreement before you drive the coach.

[J-Rooster]

You have to have good depth perception when driving a RV.

[Executive45]

Most likely the dealer's insurance required the contract prior to allowing a test drive. As long as there's a "weasel" clause, you shouldn't have any issues with it..I know I wouldn't....Dennis

[Golden_HVAC]

vector wrote:
We wanted to test drive a used Winnie Journey last summer as the search for a newer rig was narrowing down to a few models. The dealer insisted we sign a purchase agreement before we test drove the unit. Supposedly there was an "out" clause in the fine print that would let us escape the deal if the test drive proved unsatisfactory. We edged away from that salesman and hightailed it out of there. Never before had we heard of such an arrangement. Is this common in today's market?

On a similar note, I heard about a high pressure sales tactic for Kirby Vacuum cleaners, definitely not the 'Kirby way' of doing things. But the salesman said to the guy who opened his apartment door "I really don't want to carry this back to my office, if you could just keep it here, I would be grateful." and had the gentleman sign a sales agreement, (told him it was a receipt for the vacuum that I will return for later) and left. Later the guy called the office asked why the salesman did not return for his vacuum, but later found out that he now owned it, and his apartment did not even have any carpet.



Once you sign the sales agreement, you own it at the price quoted. You can not go back there and say "I don't like the way it handles, and I would not pay $35,000 for that RV" because you already agreed to a price written into the contract. You did well to leave that sales lot quickly, and not to return.

I hope that your sales experience is much better. You might not like the 40' thing all that much, my first camper was on a 20' long F-350 supercab, with a 10' camper that overhangs the bumper by about 2 feet. My 27' class C was a bit longer, but just as easy to drive. My current 30' Bounder is a bit taller, and a bit more to drive. I can not take the 10 hour drives that I did with the F-350, but I am not 25 anymore either. . .

I drove a 40' Country Coach for about 2,800 miles. It was fun to drive, and I enjoyed both trips that I took with it, other than it sleeps two, and I was driving it for the owner and his wife that got the only bed, the rear bedroom. I slept on the floor or in the massage recliner that he had.

Exhaust brakes are must for driving down mountain grades, and once you are used to them, you will find that you rarely need to step on the service brakes, or you are doing something wrong. By selecting drive, you can automatically shift 1-6 gears. Selecting 5 means 1-5 gears, and locks out the second overdrive. 4 is what the exhaust brake system selects, and sometimes I would put it in 5 for a little slowing, or 4 to keep it from shifting back to 6 when I shut off the exhaust brake for a short stretch between curves in the road.

When leaving Sequoia National Park, there is a long drive down highway 180 towards Sanger and Fresno. It is probably 6% grade the whole way, with plenty of curves, and speed limited to 35 or 45 most of the way. By using gear 4, and switching on and off the exhaust brake, I would not need the service brakes except for short breaking when going into a curve. This keeps the brakes very cool, and it worked great. One section I guess it was steeper and had more curves, so I slowed and used gear 3. This provided way to much engine braking, so I shifted back to gear 4.

Anyway have fun with your new to you RV!

Fred.

[vector]

We wanted to test drive a used Winnie Journey last summer as the search for a newer rig was narrowing down to a few models. The dealer insisted we sign a purchase agreement before we test drove the unit. Supposedly there was an "out" clause in the fine print that would let us escape the deal if the test drive proved unsatisfactory. We edged away from that salesman and hightailed it out of there. Never before had we heard of such an arrangement. Is this common in today's market?

[2gypsies1]

Our first test drive of a 40' MH was in Oregon. The salesman took us up a mountain road just to prove to us that it takes very little steering to keep it between the lines. After that, a straightaway was simple to drive but we fell in love with mountain roads!

[rgatijnet1]

Check to see how it fits YOU and any other drivers. Check your visibility and if the seating position comfortable for the long haul. Check to see if the engine sounds smooth and the transmission shifts like it should. Acceleration will be slower when it is packed for a long trip.
What you can't do is tell how it handles when loaded for travel. Most handle better loaded than empty. You also have no way of knowing if the tire pressure is correct on all four corners, which may affect the ride. Most coaches will rattle more when empty than when loaded for travel.
Since the coach will be lighter, and not loaded properly, crosswinds and trucks passing may have a great effect then when the coach is loaded.

[the_bear_II]

I would take it through the paces.... rough roads, panic stops, aggressive lane change, backing up into tight spot, parallel park, freeway/highway on ramp (merge into traffic) hill climb and down grade at least 6% grade.

Find the blind spots....

Listen for silence....the quieter the better.

If it sounds like an old pickup full of pots and pans with a few pigs thrown in then shy away from it. Squeaks, groans, squeals, bangs are not good...

[Ivylog]

With luck it drives well and you do not over steer it... coming from a PU/5er short wheelbase TV this is easy to do. Since you are looking at 40' DPs it not being loaded for travel will not be as big an issue as a small gasser that handles well empty... BUT.....

Besides over steering, it's easy to start your turns too soon because you are in front of the steering axle. On a flat road and no wind you want to be able to turn the steering wheel loose and it goes straight on it's own for 10-15 seconds. If not, is it because the tires are not properly/evenly inflated or an alignment will solve the problem. Does the wind blow it around? If so, is it a 10 mph or a 25 mph wind? Does it handle curvy roads without leaning too much? Is the inside quite on rough roads? In a panic stop does it stay straight and stop in a reasonable distance? What's a reasonable distance? Does the exhaust brake work? Cruise control, wipers, AC, radio,.................

My point is there are a lot of variables and no offence... YOU to where I'm not sure a test drive will tell you much unless everything goes well... it goes straight and stays between the lines with very little effort, stops well, and handles curvy roads are my biggies. Are you going to be comfortable in the seat and can you see well, front and sides?

Having someone who owns the same or close to it do the test drive might be a better test.