What Did You Do To Your Class B Today ?

[goreds2]

I see the other types of RV's having this type of thread. I did a search and could not find one here. 🙂

Yesterday, I drove mine to work to "excercise" it. I have driven it to work twice in the two weeks I have owned it.

In the two years I owned my Class C, I drove it to work ZERO times. :E

[Arizona_Kid]

Why not start a new thread for all this stuff, and keep this thread on topic.
The topic of the thread is "What did you do to your Class B today."

[pickerel_cove]

I also want to post this in case it happens to someone else - our exterior faucets have not worked since dewinterization. Would have come in handy for shower replacement in this time of sewer issues. We contacted Winnebago tech support and specifically asked whether we should remove the hose attachment part to check for blockage. The tech said no, take it in for diagnosis. We ignored the advice and took it off and the little spring inside had turned sidewise probably during the blowout process. Put it in correctly and voila water!

[pickerel_cove]

I won't know if it needs to be replaced until they take it off and check for blockage. I've also seen posts indicating that voltage could be insufficient to pump. Hoping it's just hair that can be removed.

[dtbrimhall]

pickerel cove wrote:
The pump motor runs and we were able to remove the input connections to confirm there was no blockage but there is no pressure pushing anything out. Gray water will drain when valve is open. No clearance to actually remove the macerator to check for hair wrapped around the shaft or other blockage inside the macerator. No foreign objects were in the tank but a guest used Kleenex. The shaft turned freely when the flat blade screwdriver check was done. The bracket holding the macerator is also cracked.

So, must you replace the pump itself? I agree there is no clearance to get to the unit, I suppose the vehicle has to be lifted.

[pickerel_cove]

The pump motor runs and we were able to remove the input connections to confirm there was no blockage but there is no pressure pushing anything out. Gray water will drain when valve is open. No clearance to actually remove the macerator to check for hair wrapped around the shaft or other blockage inside the macerator. No foreign objects were in the tank but a guest used Kleenex. The shaft turned freely when the flat blade screwdriver check was done. The bracket holding the macerator is also cracked.

[dtbrimhall]

pickerel cove wrote:
Made an appointment with RV service center to diagnose macerator issue on our 2010 Winnebago ERA. Not fun to have this problem on a long trip out west.

What seems to be the problem and how was it resolved?

[pickerel_cove]

Made an appointment with RV service center to diagnose macerator issue on our 2010 Winnebago ERA. Not fun to have this problem on a long trip out west.

[pickerel_cove]

dtbrimhall wrote:
Just finished updating the interior lights to LED. Many thanks to the good folks at M4 LED. The lights that replaced the halogen bulbs are the G4-9-5050-SIDE-WW Warm White Micro G4 / T3 Retrofit LED light.
All the the ceiling lights and under the cabinet galley lights were the energy inefficient and very warm/hot burning Halogen bulbs. No more. The LED lights are almost the same lumens and color temperature. A bit expensive, abt. $8 each but oh so worth it.

Replaced 10 puck light bulbs with LEDs today in our 2010 Winnebago ERA. After blistering my thumb when checking to see what was in there (G4) I saw why people want to replace them. I love the coolness and soft light.

[georgelesley]

BDNita wrote:
georgelesley....what kind of bump did you put in your ERA track to stop the door half way? thanks

I took two fiber tapered shims used to shim doors and windows during construction work. Put double sided carpet tape on back of each one. placed them on rubber panel flooring just below sliding door. Place them with high ends touching at the point you want the door to stop.

I had to sand the sharp tapered end to thin it out a bit because the factory installed rubber block on the lower door guide was close to the flooring below it.

In operation the rubber block on the bottom door guide will ride up the shim on either side and the high middle part will stop it. Depending on the slope you park on depends which side, front or back of the shim you will use.

If your factory rubber door guide has too much gap, just use more shims. works very neatly just operate the door slowly as it nears the high point of the stop.

It sound far more complicated that it is. It took me all of 10 minutes to do.

[BDNita]

georgelesley....what kind of bump did you put in your ERA track to stop the door half way? thanks

[stan909]

Sorry about your health problems. A sad day. Hopefully she'll go to a good home.

[nbking]

Put my RT 17 Versatile up for sale this week. Showed it to a possible buyer this morning.

I will hate to see it go but decided that health will not permit me to continue to travel as we would like.

[wincrasher65]

I bolted a tube to my hitch carrier for carrying a longer sewer hose:


And alittle bling:

[stan909]

Smogged it.

[Sebtown]

I found a knob on the radio that obliterates all the squeaks and rattles. I am much more relaxed!