What's the most efficient fridge you've used?

Here is the place to ask about compressor fridges. Sportsmobile forums Compressor type fridges are standard on all Sportsmobiles.Propane fridges are an extra option.The fridge/freezer I just bought (Dometic 18cf top loading) cycles on and off.I assume the same for the rest of the line.I don't know what it uses as far as amps per hour but it would be on the 3 amp side since I use it as a freezer because our fridge is only a fridge.I just bought a 155 watts solar panel and charge controller today and will install in the morning.The batteries cannot last longer than 20 hours with the freezer running but at 7 amps in full sun the solar should help greatly.I may even try running the fridge on DC as well, just as an experiment.

The most efficient fridge for me was the well in the woodshed when the power went out. It was right off the kitchen.

stan909 wrote:
Here is the place to ask about compressor fridges. Sportsmobile forums Compressor type fridges are standard on all Sportsmobiles.Propane fridges are an extra option.The fridge/freezer I just bought (Dometic 18cf top loading) cycles on and off.I assume the same for the rest of the line.I don't know what it uses as far as amps per hour but it would be on the 3 amp side since I use it as a freezer because our fridge is only a fridge.I just bought a 155 watts solar panel and charge controller today and will install in the morning.The batteries cannot last longer than 20 hours with the freezer running but at 7 amps in full sun the solar should help greatly.I may even try running the fridge on DC as well, just as an experiment.

Thanks for pointing out the Sportsmobile forum. I'll post there shortly. Have fun setting up your solar! I have a 195 watt panel on my van's roof and it's really awesome. On a normal use day with full sun my batteries stay fully charged!

Compressor fridges are more efficient than either evaporation (propane/electric dual-mode, what most of us have) or thermo-electric. However, it's easier to carry a large reserve capacity of propane than of electricity in batteries.

When I was looking at fridges for RV use, I noticed that Home Depot had more than one that would fit and for a bit more money, you could get one that was a LOT more efficient. I think it would be well worth the extra cash if it had to run on batteries at all.

I have rambled about this before, but if someone combined a propane fuel cell, and a high efficiency compressor fridge, the RV industry would beat a path to their door. No more dead fridges if on a hill, the propane fuel cell would provide usable power and keep the house batteries charged as well as powering the fridge, and the beer would still get cold fast.

My Norcold De0040 lasted a little over 5 years running 11 months a year

It was loud and vibrated a lot. 1.7 cubic feet, consumed about 18 to 20 amp hours per 24 hours, but there are many variables to that. My figure is 80 max f daytime ambients and minimal door openings.

When the Norcold failed, I replaced it with a Vitrifrigo. The Danfoss/Secop compressor is much quieter with no vibration.

Danfoss compressors speed are adjustable from 2000 to 3500 rpm.

The Norcold drew 2.7 amps running.

My Danfoss starts about 3.0 amps and tapers down to 2.5 amps within a minute of kicking on. I have it at 2000 rpm but it came with a resistor to run at 2500rpm and there it drew 3.6 amps that tapered to 3.2 by the end of the cycle.

The Vitrifrigo (1.8 cubic feet)is slightly more efficient than the Norcold, and much quieter.

Residential 120vac fridges run via an inverter will consume much more than a fridge designed for DC. The 130$ dorm fridge from lowes/HD is a False economy, unless you camp primarily with hookups and battery consumption is not an issue

NovaKool 7.5cuft ac/dc fridge/freezer(double door) that draws 4.7amps when cycling as per amp metre.

Keeps the beer cold and the frozen stuff solid. We almost exclusively boondock and almost never run the genny.

Dave

landyacht318 wrote:
My Norcold De0040 lasted a little over 5 years running 11 months a year

It was loud and vibrated a lot. 1.7 cubic feet, consumed about 18 to 20 amp hours per 24 hours, but there are many variables to that. My figure is 80 max f daytime ambients and minimal door openings.

When the Norcold failed, I replaced it with a Vitrifrigo. The Danfoss/Secop compressor is much quieter with no vibration.

Danfoss compressors speed are adjustable from 2000 to 3500 rpm.

The Norcold drew 2.7 amps running.

My Danfoss starts about 3.0 amps and tapers down to 2.5 amps within a minute of kicking on. I have it at 2000 rpm but it came with a resistor to run at 2500rpm and there it drew 3.6 amps that tapered to 3.2 by the end of the cycle.

The Vitrifrigo (1.8 cubic feet)is slightly more efficient than the Norcold, and much quieter.

Residential 120vac fridges run via an inverter will consume much more than a fridge designed for DC. The 130$ dorm fridge from lowes/HD is a False economy, unless you camp primarily with hookups and battery consumption is not an issue

Like you mentioned, the Home Depot fridge running via the inverter is not an option. I plan on being off the grid almost exclusively and for long periods of time. Fortunately I have 195 watts of solar so keeping a fridge by itself running shouldn't be an issue but I have other items that need juice too, hence my search for the most efficient fridge I can find (within a reasonable price range).

You said the Vitrifrigo is more efficient than the Norcold and the Norcold was averaging 18-20 amp hours per day? That's really good. I'll have to check them out. Some people on another forum have mentioned the Truck Fridge as a good option as well.

Seems the Danfoss compressor is a real winner in many different models...

@landyacht318 - where did you buy a Vitrifrigo at? I found their site but cannot find a distributor. I really like that the cooling component can be external and located a few feet away from the fridge. That would make venting it much easier for my rig.