7345 charger mod

There's really no comparison. The Parallax is just out-classed by the newer technology.

That's exactly what I did to my Parallax 7345 converter. I have a +12V cable run of perhaps 20 ft from converter to batteries. Due to the line voltage drop, the batteries took 'ages' to charge. I opened up the feedback loop (within the converter), and added a resistor and small diode (diode clamps output voltage in case of a failure) to the converter. I then ran a small cable from the opened feedback to the battery. When not in current limit, the converter will now supply 13.7V directly at the battery, regardless of line drop. Charging times are significantly reduced.

Cal

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/21456904/gotomsg/21484429.cfm#21484429

Note here is even with the mode the best you will get is 13.7 at the battery terminals. A replacement will go into the 14.2 to 14.8 range depending on model.

Sam,

My Parallax 7345 converter (2-stage) was so slow in charging, I decided to either chuck it or modify it into a turbo mode. It was slow in charging because I had 20 mohm line drop on the positive cable. It would have been a major hassle (and expense) to replace my 8 awg cable which is over 20 ft long. I decided to modify the converter and locate the feedback voltage directly at the battery. The 20 mohm line drop is now eliminated.

This procedure only works for the 7345 converter. There's a resistor divider network consisting of R32, R33, R34. One side of R32 connects to the output voltage (this is the feedback voltage), the other side connects to R33. Lift the lead of R32 that connects to the output voltage. Solder into the vacated resistor lead hole a small signal diode (1N4148 or what ever) - anode side into the hole. Connect the diode's cathode side to resistor R32 lead that's in the air. Solder a 100 ohm resistor to the same junction (R32 & diode cathode). Connect a wire to the other side of the 100 ohm, 1/8W resistor and run it to the battery positive terminal. That's it!

The diode is for protection. Should the feedback wire (the new wire going to the battery) open, the converter will limit output voltage to a safe level.

Hurricaner- I go to Gooseberry Mesa to mountainbike every spring. Great place!

Cal

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/21456904/gotomsg/21484761.cfm#21484761

If the above seems confusing or overwhelming... I recommend a replacement converter.

The PD 9260 is a 3-stage + converter 60 amps max out
The Parallex 7345 is a single stage with max 45 out

The programming for the 9260 (Wizard program) is, in my opinion, the best for Flooded wet cells.

I also have a Xantrex Inverter with a fully programmable charge pramaters.. I like the Wizard program better.

The Wizard will go into boost mode (14.x volts) if it sees the need then stay there with slowly dropping amps through absorption finally it switches to float (13.x) and after 20 hours of float will kick into 15 mintues of equalize.. This has some serious advantages to the battery life from what I can tell.

I do not know if the IOTA IQ-4 does this last bit or not but the Wizard does.
That's why *I like my 9180+wizard (same as a 9280) over the programmable inverter.

Moved to Technology Corner forum from DIY.