Need help on using old D-Link router as WAP

Well I finally got it set up as a WAP switch. What I did different was after setting security key, and SSID, I went in and changed the D-Link defaul router address to an address within the range of the Verizon router addresses, then after I did that, I entered that address in the browser, and was able to log back in to the D-Link. I then set DHCP to OFF.

So now it works as I want it to, and there are no conflicts (or shouldn't be). Did a speakeasy test of Verizon, with CAT5e cable connected to PC. 15-16mb/sec DL, and about the same for UL. Tested through the D-Link WiFi, and it drops to less than 9-10mb, but that should be enough. Verizon is on ch 11, and I put D-Link on ch 1, so they are separated as far as can be, freq-wise, and the routers are physically quite a distance apart.

If I need more through-put on the D-Link, then I'll look for a Linksys router, and do it all over again.

You shouldn't NEED a gateway, but I always set it as .1 just incase. I have run across the occasional piece of broadcast gear that uses .255 . Go figure..

Rather than plugging your incoming ethernet into the Modem (or Internet, etc.) port, try plugging into one of the router ports instead. I have two GB switches plugged into separate ports on my WRT1900, and it has no problems passing traffic from one swx, through the router, to the other swx, and/ or out Wifi.

When you start fiddling with static IP, you need to make sure you are on the same subnet as the router when programming, AND move your PC to the new subnet when done, or nothing will work.

BTW- That router can easily sustain 11MBs over Wifi. IF FIOS is lagging, its better to test with a program like Speedtest.net than calling Verizon who will probably lie and only tell you what the top end speed is, or have no clue what you're asking anyway. They took over the neighborhood many years ago, and are now all but gone because it wasn't close in performance to TW. YMMV

Jeff, Yes, I agree that the D-Link 614+ is still a decent router, and works well in this application, with the exception that it is still trying to be the "router", and not the "switch". I need to disable DHCP, and that's what I need help with. I did do a master reset; 30/30/30 as it's called, and can login using the default DLink username & password. I have made and saved changes, like renaming the SSID, encryption key, etc. But when I turn DHCP off, I can no longer get into the router, and that is because it needs to be set to a static IP, from what I'm reading on wiki, etc.

But there are a few gray areas, like once I set static to something like 192.168.1.7, subnet mask 255.255.255.0, do I need to set the gateway address too? Some places I've read that I do, and wiki didn't mention it.

Coolmom42: the old router worked fine while streaming video, for the week I used it (every day that week). Left it off a few weeks, and it had gotten kicked off the login, and I couldn't re-join, even though the router still was broadcasting a strong signel. Clash with another device, and that happens when 2 routers compete. So one has to be set as a WAP switch, so it does not hand out addresses, but simply passes them to the Roku (or whatever), that was issued by the main router. It might be old, but it worked fine.

Still looking for some specific instructions on setting a router as a switch, cabled to a LAN port of the primary router.

Anybody?

Your old router is too slow to stream video. That's why your Roku is buffering. Go get a new router with 802.11(n) standard speed.

Your primary router may be fast, but your old routers are going to put a bottleneck in the system.

Also part of the problem is that they are Netgear, the least user friendly router ever created. Go to a Linksys router.

I would FIRST contact Verizon and see if you are getting the download speed you are paying for. You will need 12 MB/sec to avoid buffering on HD video. It's also possible that Verizon has a repeater available, or at least a list of recommnended repeaters.

First of all, replacing those routers won't fix any of your problems. You still need to log in and do config. You didnt mention what Netgear routers you have but I have a DIR-614 on the shelf and there is no reason it wont work. It wont run DD-WRT either :(. Just stay clear of anything thats not at least 100mb thruput if those spares are that old, or the old blue metal netgear case

IF the router is alive and you have given it a first birthday reset, it should be set to factory default. If you google something like 'router password' you will find several websites of all default passwords ever issued from the factory. If you literally cannot get into the devices after that then they may infact be dead.

As for channel config., if you are trying to extend network, move the routers to the opposite end of the band, passwords can be the same or not, but if any of those are N routers, they take up several channels, so choose channels 1 & 9 to be safe. If you dont want to screw with the FIOS router and it has an ethernet connection I would look into turning it into a modem only and do your device managment externally.

BTW- the reason I have that -614 and several like it on the shelf is that there are so many wifi devices in the house (20+), I have choked and killed them all. The latest router is a Linksys WRT 1900AC thats a high end gaming router, and the only one i have ever owned that hasnt so much as burped since installed.

Thanks for the suggestions so far, but primary router is the one provided by VerizonFios, and cannot be replaced with anything unless I change ISP.

These routers are too old for DD-WRT, but from what I've read, I couldn't use that behind the Verizon router, unless I installed 2 new routers, like Linksys router/repeater. Since these will work for what I want to do, why not use one?

About a month ago, and without knowing anything about how to do this, I simply plugged the D-Link into the LAN port jack coming from the main router. The Roku found it, and connected, and everything was fine, or so I thought.

It worked great for about a week, then lost the connection. The 2nd router didn't have DHCP disabled, so it was acting as a router, probably handing out IP addresses to Roku, that conflicted with a wireless printer or another laptop. Disabling DHCP would allow the primary router to hand out addersses to each new connected device. I'm not sure of the exact sequence to do this.

What would be the advantage of setting up a repeater vs a 2nd access point? Any compelling reason to buy a new router? We live in a rural area, so no wifi congestion or snoopers.

Re firmware updating, there are none, as these are legacy products, no longer supported.

my two cents would be to first see if you could upgrade the firmware. if they support DD-WRT, I'd do that before dorking with anything. The newer firmware will open up a ton of new options and might make your job a heck of a lot easier.

I would configure them as repeaters, not WAPs. I would also see if I could install DD-WRT.

new router

Time to replace old routers with one good one and find a gain antenna for it on the site. If this one does not give you complete coverage just buy one more and set it up as a repeater. They are incredibly easy to setup.

Replace the routers with new ones. Some of the older ones just don't understand all the new stuff trying to connect.