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Do I need generator?

beeven
Explorer
Explorer
I am about to start the process of purchasing my 1st RV. I'm looking at getting a small 24ft Class C. My top contender is the Navion and I'm wondering if I need a generator put on there at all. I know the answer depends on my usage. This RV is going to serve multiple purposes: act as a homebase while I'm on photography day trips, act as a camper when my family wants to go camping, and act as a family car for road trips. When camping, we'll probably do a mix of dry camping and hotel camping.

I was hoping to get away with running all the RV appliances through the batteries, with the exception of the Microwave. I'm assuming all other accessories could be run using the house batteries alone, am I correct? If so, then the weight savings would come in handy since the Navion seems short on OCCC.

Is there anything I'm not considering by eliminating the genset?

Thanks for the insight!
27 REPLIES 27

JiminDenver
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thank you
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Jim,

A Magnum or a Victron in that size is ~$2500.00--and parts are available for fixing them IF they fail.

The Prowatt is only $355.00--so it is not economic to try to fix it. The parts may be hard to come by--and the costs might be astronomical (i.e. exceed the cost of replacement).

JiminDenver wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Yes, you can run a microwave from a good battery bank. Best "bang for the buck" is a Prowatt SW2000 $355.00. However, it is a throw away inverter, if it fails.


I had planned on getting one of these for next year but your last sentence has me worried. Please explain.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

tatest
Explorer II
Explorer II
You are not considering climate control. You need a generator to run house air conditioning if you require A/C in your vehicle when you travel in warm climates and either:

Carry passengers back in the house.

Want to park without electrical hookups and use the house, and want it to be comfortable.

Sitting in the sun, RV is a closed box soaking up heat generated by sunlight striking the outside, like a closed up parked car. On a 70-80 degree day full sunlight will heat the inside of the RV to well over 90F within two hours if it is closed up.

Bump that to 90-100 outside, and it will go over 120F inside. You can cool it some by pulling outside air through the windows. That works well enough when it is cool outside, but not so well when it is hot outside. Even with A/C running, full sunlight on a hot day in a humid climate, you might be seeing temperatures over 90F, so you don't even want to try to do without A/C.

If you are only going to New England or northern Michigan, you might be able to get by in the summer without running the house air, but Virginia on south, and anywhere on the plains, you need that extra 13,000 to 15,000 BTUs of cooling capacity for much of the year, whether moving or parked, and you can get the power to run it only from a genset if you are not plugged in.
Tom Test
Itasca Spirit 29B

JiminDenver
Explorer II
Explorer II
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Yes, you can run a microwave from a good battery bank. Best "bang for the buck" is a Prowatt SW2000 $355.00. However, it is a throw away inverter, if it fails.


I had planned on getting one of these for next year but your last sentence has me worried. Please explain.
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I use a Prosine 2.0 (the 1800 will do just fine) but I"d recommend 2 pair of GC-2 batteries.. So does Xantrex.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Of course, only you can decide if YOU need a generator, but I spend a lot of time boondocking, and would never be without one. However, I don't have solar, and even if I did, most of my camping is under trees that would interfere with solar charging.

I have to have it for battery charging (about every 3 or 4 days) and A/C in the summer (I live in the south). DW likes it for the microwave and blow drier, though those are non-essentials. Remember, if you are boondocking without a generator, you will only have 120v from an inverter, and that CAN need a very large battery bank if you use much 120v power at all.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

frankdamp
Explorer
Explorer
It's an extra that might return half its original price when you finally sell the RV. We've had our MH for three seasons and have really USED the generator once, when we camped in Eastern Washington on July 4th and it was 110 degrees in the shade.

The rest of the time, the only hours we've put on it are for the monthly "exercising" task. I suspect it was the same for the original owners we bought the MH from, since the generator only had 48 hours on the meter after 8 seasons.

I had a medical problem two years back, and didn't get out to "exercise" the generator. It hasn't started since, and we haven't missed it. I have a feeling that something in the generator fuel system has been damaged by ethanol. The Onan owners' manual says not to use gasoline with ethanol added. It draws its fuel from the main tank. Am I going to drive miles extra (at 7 mpg) to find a gas station with non-ethanol fuel and then pay 50 cents or more per gallon for the privilege? Fat chance! I just wish I'd had the sense to disable the generator when we first got the rig.

I'll have to pay to get it fixed before we try to sell the RV, but (with luck) that's a couple of years away.
Frank Damp, DW - Eileen, pet - female Labrador (10 yrs old), location Anacortes, WA, retired RVers (since Dec 2014)

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

Yes, you can run a microwave from a good battery bank. Best "bang for the buck" is a Prowatt SW2000 $355.00. However, it is a throw away inverter, if it fails.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
beeven wrote:
*On a side note* As far as Microwave, it looks like this appliance uses about 1000W of power. Would I be able to use a beefed up house battery pack to power that? The Navion comes with two batteries. If I beefed it up to 4 and got an suitable inverter, would this suffice Microwave usage?

Yes. 1000w is probably cooking power and you really need to cover input power. I suggest 1800+ watt inverter rating. And sine wave only for microwaves. I use Prosine 1800 and four GC2 batteries.

Kit_Carson
Explorer
Explorer
No, you don't need a generator but they sure are nice to have. Goes back to the old story about "wants and needs". I think you would be pleased to have it.
KIT CARSON
GOOD SAM LIFE MEMBER
USAF VETERAN
ARS: KE5VLE
NORTHWEST LOUISIANA

rbtglove
Explorer
Explorer
Had two class Cs, first one didn't have a generator and when I ordered the second I made a point of getting the next one with it. Really glad we did think you get most of the coat back when you sell anyway. There are times when its really cold (furance will run on battery but not for a long time) or hot that you will glad you have one.
Bob/Beavercreek OH
2011 Silverado 1500 LTZ/Trail Lite 8230

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
The Navion gives you a choice between a natural gas or a diesel generator.

Get the diesel genset. This way, you have two fuels available for heating with, both propane and diesel used with an electric heater.

I live in Texas, so things are different, where a generator is a must for a good chunk of the year.

I do recommend a solar charging system, but always have a generator as backup. One never knows if they woke up with flat batteries, and have to be scooting out of an area late at night.

As for portable generators versus an inbuilt system... the inbuilt system is nice because it is a lot less visible to thieves (I've yet to hear of a thief dropping and making off with an Onan, but I hear about portable generators disappearing all the time.) You can also get a Magnum Energy genset controller to have it automatically start up when the house batteries get to a low voltage. You can also set quiet hours as well, so the generator won't start up and break a CG's rules.

rockhillmanor
Explorer
Explorer
Regarding using only batteries for boondocking?

If you are "new" to RV'ing I suggest you go and read and reread all the posts from the members in the "public lands/boondocking" section of this forum. It will boogle your mind all what they know about solar panels and batteries!
http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/35

It IS an art and constant fine tuning of banks of batteries, solar, etc etc, to get more power for their way of RV'ing. Those that are dedicated to RV'ing in this manner have 'years' of experience behind them for it to all work comfortably while RV'ing.

I envy them and am constantly in awe of all what they know about powering up an RV without plugging into a shore station! :B

That all said......get an RV with a generator installed. Because all of the boondockers have one for back up also. :W

It's kinda like we all buy flashlights to have on board and rarely use them except in an emergency situation. So as is that generator box under your coach, there to flip a switch when you need it.

Wouldn't leave home RV'ing without one.

We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.

Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Explorer II
Beev,

You asked - Do I need a generator in my Class-C?

The absolute answer is NO.

The real answer is that the additional cost is well worth it. If you don't even think you will ever dry camp, it is still worth it. It will only take one weekend of not having A/C or being able to use the microwave when you or DW wants to make it worth having. Most of our lives in this coach, we have put maybe 10 hours a season on our APU. I always felt stupid changing the oil in the spring. But we were at a special gathering this last summer and it was HOT. We put 38 hours on the APU between Friday afternoon and Sunday noon.

If(when) you go to sell this unit, it will sell much better with an APU installed. Just take care of it so it stays running.

Added: APU = Auxiliary Power Unit - a generator to most folks

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.