Forum Discussion
- _1FlyboyExplorer. . .I built a T for mine so that I could have BOTH the heating element & sacrificial anode in my water heater; works GREAT as long as you are plugged in. . .I USUALLY boondock / hit areas without electricity available, but, when I am plugged in it works as advertised. . .Also, the water heater mfg. would have to prove it caused the failure of the tank, and, how many times have you heard "the water heater failed" on a well kept RV???
- silver_creekExplorerThanks for both replies. I didn't think about that voiding the warranty. I guess ill wait till the warranty is up before I throw it on there. Thanks again.
- Pangaea_RonExplorerWe installed it in our former Class C and loved it. My only difficulty was finding an available 120v AC circuit. I hooked it up to the microwave circuit, and put a sign in the MW to turn off the tank heater when using the MW. There are also automatic switches to do that, but they were $$$, and the sign worked for us.
I just recommended that same one for my son to install in his TC. - Old-BiscuitExplorer IIISame kind of aftermarket heating rod design that goes in the drain plug.
Hott Rod & Lightnng Rod are two other ones.
They will help maintain hot water and will heat water (although slower due to small wattage of heating rod).
Only words of caution:
1) Both Suburban and Atwood will void any water heater warranty if they are used.
2) Suburban requires the use of an anode rod to protect tank from deterioration so make sure the one you use has an anode rod attachment
3) IF used........don't forget to drain/flush tank routinely. ALL needed periodic draining/flushing.
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4,026 PostsLatest Activity: Jun 15, 2017