heating

Hi Clay,

Nice find!

Here is a link to an online cost comparison calculator

Clay L wrote:
If you go HERE you can download a small program that will make the simple calculation for you.
It allows you to enter the appliance efficiency.

According to an email to me from engineering at Suburban Manufacturing, the efficiency of RV furnaces ranges from 70 to 80 percent. Water heaters are 70 percent on gas.

Hi Paw Paw,

Heating the basement for most folks is as easy as installing a thermostatically controlled fan.

Folks who have 30 amp service, if they wish to heat in extreme cold, needs must have more than one shore power cord. This is also relatively painless and extremely cost effective. If they choose to not do so, they can dramatically reduce propane costs by running heaters and the furnace.

It is too bad the smallest cheap heat system can be run at the same time as the propane burner in the furnace.

I'm now using "magic carpets" which are electrically heated and do about 85 btu's per square foot. They have really improved the comfort level in my class C, which has an insulated but unheated basement. I don't have every square foot covered but the carpets do radiate heat downwards into that unheated cavity so the floors everywhere are much warmer.

Portable heaters can be a royal pain, but with a little thought they may often be installed in out of the way areas in a manner that leaves no cords to trip over or heaters that tip over.

I did some measurements recently on surface temperatures of heaters, when they were going "flat out". Here they are:

40 c (104 f) "magic carpet"
85 c (185 f) oil filled heater.
135 c (275 f) fan based cube heater
275 c (527 f) pure radiant heater (no fan) quartz tube type

Clearly the oil filled are the safest of the three types of portable heaters. I use 1/2 size ones and those with the carpets are providing a large portion of my heating needs. They total about 2100 watts, and provide a lovely, silent, even heat.

If you go HERE you can download a small program that will make the simple calculation for you.
It allows you to enter the appliance efficiency.

According to an email to me from engineering at Suburban Manufacturing, the efficiency of RV furnaces ranges from 70 to 80 percent. Water heaters are 70 percent on gas.

Note: Because Microsoft in their infinite wisdom didn't include the software to support the older help file formats, for Windows Vista and higher you will need to download and install a Microsoft program that allows you to use help files with the "hlp" extension for whatever operating system you are using.
You can download it here Microsoft Knowledge Base. Scroll down to select your operating system.

I tried three portable electric heaters going on at once and hated it. They are always in the way and I still had to run my gas unit to keep the underbelly heated. Now I can heat my hold camper at once with the cheap heat system and stay very warm. I have camped with both side of this debate and can honestly say that the cheap heat system can't be beat. I will never own another pull camper without this system in it. I only use my 50 amp shore cord and never run extra electric cords for more electricity than I pay for in my daily campground rate. All I can say is to check this system out and maybe you can see for yourself that it might work for you. The cheap heat system is not for everybody like running three portable heaters are not my glass of wine for me!!!!

Hi,

The largest cheap heat system would be sufficient down to about -27 C (-17 f) in my class C. However, because that would require a fifty amp service conversion, it is not possible for me to install it, without a lot of additional expense. Below those temperatures, it would be necessary to change over propane as the system design does not allow for "series" operation. (i.e. it is either electric, or propane, not both at once).

I am heating 100% electrically and have used as much as 5800 watts. So far the low has been -34 c (-30 f). I do this by having auxiliary shore power cords, and a 50 amp break out box. I can get to 7800 watts before the system is totally maxed out. However, it is prudent for continuous use to keep at 80% of that number or 6280 watts. That means I have a bit of "wiggle" room left.

My system is not for every one--but it does allow propane and electric heat to be used together.

Once my wattage use drops to 2880, I'll be going back to urban boondocking.

I installed the cheap heat system into my 36 foot mobile Suite camper about four years ago and never refilled my two butane tanks yet. This system installs in the gas heater unit and gives you the option to heat on gas are electric. I have a 50 amp service and used the 5000 watt heating coil. This system is heavy duty and very efficient compaired to the gas unit that looses about 40 % to the outside. This system heats the under belly and the inside of the camper evenly. I keep my camper plugged in at my house when not using it and keep it set at 50 degrees all winter. This was the best investment I have ever made to my camper yet. I love this system and would recemend this upgrade to anybody that wants a better way to heat their campers.

Check it out at rvcomfortsystems.com

buy u got to remember, the skin on any rv is not but so thick.now its all happy-camping

The other advantage to electric is that it saves some hassle on refilling the LP tanks.

We insulate the heck out of our RV (Reflectix over the windows/foam "pillows" in the vents/AC ducts closed, etc) for starters, then use both electric and the furnace for warmth. Our electric heater has a digital temperature setting, so we set that at 67 degrees at night - and the furnace at 65. The furnace will run a few times during the night; but one night during single-digit temps (we were winterized at that point) - our furnace came on a couple of times, and the neighboring 5er - sheesh, I could hear their furnace kick on about every 10 minutes....

The answer depends on a few things... GENERALLY (not always)

IF you are paying for it, Propane gets you more heat per dollar than Electric.

IF, however, Electric is "Included" well, then Cost per KWY=ZERO and it is kind of hard to beat that price.

HOWEVER.. If your in a Class A (or trailer) WIth "Heated tank compartment(s)" then it is very likely the Heat provided said compartments is courtesy of the furnace. And if you are using electric space heaters.. That will not work. (So i added heat to the bays from an electric source as well) Even my water hose and pressure regulator are heated, As is the park water supply near my rig (100 watts of heat in that area, under a bag, Nice and toasty inside the bag)

However if it gets cold enough (11) The electric heat in the basement.. NOT enough Though I may some day fix that by re-positioning a few elements.