How Much Cargo Weight??

four22 wrote:
How much cargo weight should I figure for a family of 4? Loaded (minus water) but with tools and the like...

Depends on the length of the TT. Longer = more stuff added. Is this just the weight of the cargo and misc. "stuff" that you will be placing in the TT or are you talking about a final scaled weight on top of the factory UVW figure? If you bought a new TT and ordered any options, that will add to the UVW. Propane tanks and battery will add to the UVW. Any modifications or upgrades you do will add to the UVW. Holding tank contents (8.34 lbs/USG) will add to the UVW.

I wanted to determine an accurate weight of everything that would be added to the factory UVW so when I picked up our new 29' TT (in sig. below), I went straight to a scale on the way home. The trailer was 190 lbs more than the UVW which would be due to options such as solid surface countertop, electric awning and electric stab. jacks. and a few more. Wt. of one battery and two propane tanks was not included (approx. 165 lbs).

Then I weighed each and every mod and upgrade I did - shocks, Dexter equalizers, WDH snap-up brackets, water filtration, 2nd TV and some others and the total came to 119 lbs.

Then I went to a scale after the trailer was fully loaded for camping for the two of us for a weekend trip- sewer stuff, chocks, BBQ, kitchen stuff (dishes, cutlery, toaster, food, etc.), clothing, bathroom stuff, couple dozen bottled water, books & DVDs, some tools, etc., etc. The weight of all the cargo added to the TT came to 555 lbs.

So, the total of everything added on top of the factory UVW came to 1029 lbs. The wt. of the cargo was 555 lbs. These weight are very important in our case. Our GVWR is 6800 lbs and when we add 1029 lbs to the 5237 lb UVW, we end up with 534 lbs remaining before we hit the GVWR. If we had more than a couple of the holding tanks full, we'd be over our GVWR - not good. The "advertised" factory CCC is 1563 lbs but is in fact is only 1208 lbs which is rather low.

Going to a scale after you are fully loaded is one of the best things you can do to know where you stand on actual weights vs. factory figures so you will know for sure if you are overloading the frame, axles and/or tires and how much more you can add if needed. Many will claim the weight of cargo you add is in the order of 1500 lbs and higher. If they are indeed only talking about cargo, I just don't understand how they can add 1,000 lbs more cargo weight that we do unless they are including full holding tanks or maybe they have a humongous battery bank, a rolling tool chest or an awful lot of cases of beer.

In addition to the weight on listed for my RV, I carry water, propane, a generator, tools and hardware items, gas for the generator, water hoses, a compressor, kitchen gear, food, cameras and other hobby gear, luggage, backpacks, folding chairs, a screen house, a change of bedding, a picnic table cover, BBQ grill, etc. I also added weight with two solar panels and upgraded batteries. Cosmetics, personal items and four seasons of clothing are minimal compared with everything else.

I like to keep my trailer stocked with essentials only, no need to bring 3 sizes of cast iron pans..

But I always say 1k lbs over dry weight is a good place to guesstimate. 1200 if you plan on traveling with a full fresh water tank

Nose high (within reasonable limits) will NOT overload the rear axle unless you have a very rare rigid frame (non-equalized) suspension!

Thanks for posting this question. I was thinking about posting the very same question yesterday.

Most CCC is calculated with fresh tank and water heater full.

four22 wrote:
I've seen several manufactures that have capacities of this nature and makes me wonder if people realize what their buying.

Manufacturer carrying capacities are very generalized figures for the most stripped down models.

The numbers the mfr list will give you an idea, but always count of having 20-25% LESS carrying capacity than the brochure/ website specs.

You need to check the sticker on the actual rig, because two trailers of the same model built a week apart might vary by 10%.

Add options like a second battery, a spare time, a bedroom TV, a 15K vice 13.5K AC - and the brochure weight is now 150-250 lbs too light.

Also remember that both the brochure and the sticker on the rig are with empty propane tanks. I've got two 30 lb tanks. That's an extra 60 lbs right on the end of the tongue.

I've found it a necessary task to take the empty rig straight from the dealer to a certified scale.

I weigh the rig with the truck tires on different pads and the trailer on the trailer pad.

I weigh a second time with the trailer hooked up - each axle on a different weight pad and the truck not on the scale.

Then I drop the trailer in the parking lot, and weigh a third time. That gives me the truck/tow vehicle weight.

Subtracting #3 weight from the #1 total weight gives me the total trailer weight.

Checking the front and rear axle weights on the truck in #1 and #3 tells me how much weight is lifted off the front axle when hooked up - and consequently how much braking power is lost from the lighter front axle while towing.

The #2 weight tells me how much load is on the tires - and if one axle is carrying more weight than the other axle.

Subtracting the #2 weight of the trailer from the #1 total rig weight tells me how much tongue weight the truck is carrying, and if I am close to exceeding the TRUCK Carrying Capacity with the combination of the tongue weight, the weight of my wife and I, the weight of all the stuff I carry in the truck in an attempt to keep the weight out of the trailer.

Since we are full-timers - I weight at least once a quarter - and find out how much weight the rig has gained and we need to get out of the rig.

I've twice had the rig weighed at the Escapee's Rainbow's End Park in Livingston, TX - where each individual wheel is weighed.

The first time, I discovered the rig was 200 lbs heavier on the road side than the curb side. So I moved the way we set some stuff after the slides are in and we are setting up to tow.

A nose high towing attitude on the trailer can overload the rig rear axle, just as a nose down slant can overload the front axle.

Toy haulers are really susceptible to overloaded rear axles, and blowouts on the rear axle tires.

BarneyS wrote:

By the way that 7600 is the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR)and not the carrying capacity. The carrying capacity will be 7600 minus the actual scaled weight of the trailer.
Barney

Correct. I meant total weight (gvw) of trailer. We're saying the same thing only differently...:S

four22 wrote:
Snip...

This said trailer also has ST205/75R14C tires on it... which are rated at 1760lbs max load. My math tells me that the total carrying capacity of the trailer (7600) exceeds the capacity of the tires alone (7040).

You are forgetting that some of that weight is being carried by the tow vehicle in the form of tongue weight. In this case at least 760lbs and probably closer to 1000.

By the way that 7600 is the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR)and not the carrying capacity. The carrying capacity will be 7600 minus the actual scaled weight of the trailer.
Barney

Heres an example. It would be a consideration except for the cargo capacity. I KNEW that would be too light.

Click Here

I've seen several manufactures that have capacities of this nature and makes me wonder if people realize what their buying.

This said trailer also has ST205/75R14C tires on it... which are rated at 1760lbs max load. My math tells me that the total carrying capacity of the trailer (7600) exceeds the capacity of the tires alone (7040).