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Screwing into shower wall?

We have a dispenser that holds shampoo, body wash and conditioner. I attached it to the shower wall using heavy duty Velcro which I have used many places in the rv with success but it’s not working for this application. I’m not sure if it’s the surface or the weight but it continues to pull away from the wall. Any thoughts on using screws and anchors? The Velcro was easily removed but holes from screws are a bit more permanent.

Explorer III
Explorer III
I'm in the VHB school vs screws. I installed led strips under the coach 6 years ago with VHB. 50+K miles all around the country and still inplace. Get VHB rated for the weight you are considering and you'll be good.
2013 Dutch Star 4338- all electric
Toad is 2015 F-150 with bikes,kayaks and Harley aboard

Explorer II
Explorer II
The brackets that hold a shower head on the wall are screwed in place with an ordinary screw. So the walls are obviously thick enough to hold a screw.

Not sure I'd want to add a screw into a shower wall, but if you plan on the holder being there "forever" it should work. You could always add a dab of epoxy to the threads for extra holding power.

The bracket for our shower head was coming loose. I found that whoever put the screw in over-tightened it and stripped out the hole in the fiberglass. I simply drilled a new hole next to the original one and carefully tightened the screw back in. Gets very little water spray up that high and wasn't worried about using anything to help seal the penetration.

Explorer II
Explorer II
Another vote for the 3M command strips.
Our 2351D Phoenix Cruiser, Jack, has turned us from campers into RVers and loving it!

I mounted a couple of things in my shower. I just drilled small pilot holes and screwed the things to the wall. I "felt" the screws actually go into something solid (no, it wasn't wire or pipe either, lol) behind the plastic surround.
2007 Fleetwood Bounder 38N 330 Cat DP, 2008 GL1800 Goldwing, Cessna 150 & 172, Rans S6S Coyote, Vans RV9A. Lifetime NRA, EAA, Good Sam member

So, what is the difference between a screw that is siliconed vs. the plastic plugs they use at the factory that have no sealant on them at all?

I agree, less holes is better but for the record, I mounted a holder in mine with screws. I siliconed the hole and the screws to make sure its sealed. It also up high out of the spray zone. I also took out all of the factory plastic plugs, siliconed the holes and plugs before putting them back in. I don't see how those don't let water in.

Traveler III
Traveler III
Lol, LeClair!

Agree, use tape, velcro, suction cups. Leave the drill out of the equation.
2016 Ram 2500, EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Traveler II
Traveler II
I wouldn't screw into the shower housing. There is a reason this isn't done at the factory. It's very thin and provided you got into a stud, the flexible nature of the shower and the constant movement while travelling and expansion and contraction due to weather, it's bound to end up with a crack and/or a leak. And unfortunately, you'd probably never know when it starts to leak as it would be behind the wall.
2023 FR Sunseeker 2400B MBS

Well, if nothing else, the thread title certainly set my mind wandering.


Something Old, Something New
2012 F350 SRW, 6.7l Powerstroke, 3.55's front and rear.
2008 Fleetwood Regal 325RKTS
Mike, Carol and our 4 legged "furry child" Kenzie Shweenie Tod

My soap holder is indeed attached with Scotch VHB tape, and remains in place after two years; also, the solar panels on my roof. Surface prep is important - be sure to eliminate any grease/oil.
Buck: 2004 Wilderness Yukon 8275S, now memories.
Star: Open range LF297RLS. 2 air conditioners!
Togo: 2014 Winnebago View Profile, 2013 Sprinter chassis; 16 mpg
Snow: 2020 F250 diesel

I recommend double sided tape as well. Screwing into something in any RV is asking for trouble. Walls aren't that thick 1.5" maybe and internal framing is hit and miss.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

On all three trailers that I have owned, I just used screws into the plastic surround. If you push in on the plastic you usually can feel where there is a solid surface (wood) behind and that works well, but if not just into the plastic will work. (naturally make sure there are no pipes where you want it)
I drill a pilot hole through the plastic and then force the screw into the wood. I also put a dab of silicon at the hole prior to screwing the screw in.


Did mine with command strips, so far so good
Itasca Meridian SE 36g
Road Master Tow Dolly

Traveler II
Traveler II
Look at the 3-M VHB tape intended for out door use. There is even a formulation with a "plastic" velcro.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.