Several new to RVing questions

[JEB17245]

We plan on buying a RV soon and are struggling with choices. We have a 2014 F-250 6.7 diesel so we can handle most RVs, but would like suggestions for either a bumper pull or 5th wheel. The truck bed is the 6.5 short bed. If we go with a 5th wheel I understand that we need a hitch with a slider and is it important to have one that pivots side to side and front to back to improve the tow?
We're also struggling with length. What is the difference in towing a 28' versus a 33'? I know 5':). Does a 5th wheel make towing a longer trailer easier?

Thanks in advance,

John

[Grit_dog]

JEB17245 wrote:
First, thanks for all the good advice. I checked the sticker on the truck and the GVWR is 10,000 lbs, rear GAWR is 6100 lbs. A vin website has max towing at 12,200 lbs, payload at 3150 lbs. We've been looking at the ultra-light trailers to keep the tow weight down. We bought it used so I don't have the new car sticker, but it has a factory rear 2 1/2" hitch. I believe that's either class 4 or 5.

John

GVW is limited for legal/class purposes and has little to do with the truck's capability.
6100 RAWR is pretty much 10k minus actual front axle weight. Axle is good for 10klbs, springs will need help over 3klbs payload, but you have leaf springs so the options there are economical and plentiful and basically tire/wheel rating is your real limiting factor, putting the rear around 7000-7200lbs. That can be fixed too.
Also doubt the tow rating is that low. Even with highway gears that truck will comfortably pull more of set up right.
You said website ratings, you probably got the wrong model. Your "rated payload" likely isn't that high unless it's a reg cab diesel, and towing is higher.

There are many inequities in truck ratings although if you stay within all your posted ratings, you will be conservatively well equipped.
No need to limit to ultra lights unless that's what you want to buy.

[michaelhebert19]

I had a 40' airstream bumper pull years ago. Loved it (minus it being a complete hunk of junk when I bought it for $600), but it got the job done for what I needed at the time.

It was HUGE. I luckily pulled it with ease with a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 normal V8 motor. Nothing fancy other than a 5,000 pound hitch and ball. I pulled into a gas station with it attached when leaving and a guy next to me was like "good lord, thats the biggest piece of aluminum junk I have ever seen!". I was proud of it.

It was very easy to pull, however it was an Airstream. Light as a feather for the most part. I have no experience with a 5th wheel but from what I have heard, the smaller ones pull easy as well. A large 5th wheel is not fun when it comes to wind or not having enough power. Make sure the truck can handle it without any problems at all before making that purchase.

[pbtman]

I had a 2001 Ford F-250 short bed with the 7.3 diesel. We pulled a 30ft 5th wheel with a single slide-out for miles and miles. Colorado, Texas and all over Missouri and Arkansas. No problem towing at all. Since I used my truck also for gooseneck trailers, I had the B & W turn-over gooseneck hitch installed under the bed of the truck. Then I purchased the B & W Companion 5th wheel converter hitch. It pivots side-to-side. I see now that they have the Companion in a slider model. Mine was not a slider. I had the dealer take off the standard pin box from the front of the trailer and install the extended one (made for short bed trucks). I never had any issue once I set the Companion to the proper height.
We now have a 1/2 ton Dodge with a 25’ travel trailer. I’m into a whole new learning curve now.?? (we were out of rv’ing for over 10 years) I’m super stoked to be back.

[vjstangelo]

If I had such a truck I'd go with the 5th wheel. These seem to have a better use of the living space, while also preserving the master suite area (when compared to a bumper tow).

[Walaby]

Key figures are the 3150 payload, and the 6100 GAWR. To be sure of what you can handle, you should weigh your truck, full of fuel and with intended passengers.

Weight slip from a Cat scale will give you actual weights for Steer Axle (front), Drive axle (rear) and total weight.

For a 5er, the difference between 6100 (GAWR), and the actual drive axle weight, will tell you how much additional weight you can have in the bed without exceeding axle weight. That will tell you how much pin weight you can handle for a 5er. Typically pin weight is ~25 percent of the total trailer weight.

For a TT, a key figure is the tongue weight, which is ~14 percent of the total trailer weight. That figure, plus ~100 lbs for the hitch, plus whatever cargo you carry in bed of , and passenger weight should not exceed your payload.

These are planning numbers that, generally speaking, should keep you within all your weight limits, and provide a good towing combination.

2 1/2 inch hitch is a class 5.

Mike

[JEB17245]

First, thanks for all the good advice. I checked the sticker on the truck and the GVWR is 10,000 lbs, rear GAWR is 6100 lbs. A vin website has max towing at 12,200 lbs, payload at 3150 lbs. We've been looking at the ultra-light trailers to keep the tow weight down. We bought it used so I don't have the new car sticker, but it has a factory rear 2 1/2" hitch. I believe that's either class 4 or 5.

John

[wa8yxm]

What is the difference in lengths (other than 5') Well. the sites you can fit in, In some parks over 30 feet may have limited sites..

Most folks feel a 5th wheel is easier to pull and for sure to back up (though there is a way to make a TT tow like a 5er)

And .. Another item on length. I've towed many trailers, some short, Some medium some L O N G. and the longer the wheelbase (that is distance from hitch to wheels) the more time you have to correct for mistakes when backing up.

[Lwiddis]

“We have a 2014 F-250 6.7 diesel so we can handle most RVs”

And that’s exactly what many RV sales persons will say....and they are wrong.

[ScottG]

Second Chance wrote:
A 3/4-ton truck will not handle "most" fifth wheels. A crew cab diesel with 4WD has an even lower payload rating than a 2WD gasser because of the extra weight in the drive train. With a fifth wheel, it's about payload and not towing capacity. Figure out what you have left for rear axle capacity on the truck (loaded, people, hitch, etc.). Multiply that by four and you'll have the GVWR for a fifth wheel you can comfortably handle.

In my opinion, fifth wheels handle better - especially in high winds. A 33' fifth wheel should actually end up shorter overall than a 28' TT because of the lack of the A-frame on the front (as on a TT) and because a good part of the fifth wheel overhangs the truck.

You don't necessarily need a slider with a 6.5' bed. It depends largely on the pin box placement and the front cap design of the fifth wheel. We pulled our first 12K miles with a 6.5' bed without a slider and did just fine (we used an Andersen Ultimate). Sliders can be extremely heavy and you may not want to give up the extra payload. At less than 50 lbs., the Andersen is a good alternative to consider for a 3/4-ton truck.

Rob

Great post.
I know how it is; we buy these hideously expensive big trucks and figure they can do anything - but they can't.
As was said, you will run out of load capacity with any of the biggest fivers so it would be wise of you to make sure you fully understand the real world ratings of your truck and match the trailer to it.

[centerline]

its not the size or weight rating of the truck that determines which TYPE of trailer it can pull, but it only determines the weight that it can handle reasonably safe at the rated towing speed....

a 5th wheel trailer will always pull much more comfortably for long distances than a bumper pull will... as for the length of the trailer, no matter what style or type, the longer it is, the harder it is to get around with.

only you know what you want in a trailer and how its outfitted, but for full time pulling, people who have tried them are always happier with a 5th wheel set up....

the 5th wheel hitch is more expensive to purchase and install than a bumper hitch, but with the difference in ease of towing and the simplicity of connecting and disconnecting from the trailer, its well worth its cost.

[downtheroad]

JEB17245 wrote:
We have a 2014 F-250 6.7 diesel so we can handle most RVs,
Thanks in advance,

John

• Your truck may not be able to "carry" many 5th wheel trailers
• Make floor plan a primary consideration
• Properly set up travel trailer will tow just as easily as a 5th wheel
• Do you want to be able to use the bed of your truck for other cargo?
• Do you have trouble with stairs?

Just some more thoughts to confuse you....
Good luck with your search and decision. Either way (TT or 5th wheel) you will make many great memories and have lots of adventures.

[drsteve]

JEB17245 wrote:
We plan on buying a RV soon and are struggling with choices. We have a 2014 F-250 6.7 diesel so we can handle most RVs, but would like suggestions for either a bumper pull or 5th wheel. The truck bed is the 6.5 short bed. If we go with a 5th wheel I understand that we need a hitch with a slider and is it important to have one that pivots side to side and front to back to improve the tow?
We're also struggling with length. What is the difference in towing a 28' versus a 33'? I know 5':). Does a 5th wheel make towing a longer trailer easier?

Thanks in advance,

John

A fifth wheel is easy to pull because they don't sway, and the hitch requires no setup. A properly set up bumper pull also tows just fine. You'll find many different opinions on which is better.

With a bumper pull, you still have use of the truck bed for storage. 5ers usually have more inside storage area than a TT. A 5er has steps to the front area, an issue for some with mobility limitations. 5ers tend to be heavier. TTs are usually cheaper. 5ers are taller, so watch for low hanging trees.

A longer unit is most noticeable when making gas stops, parking, and backing. A fifth wheel makes for a shorter overall length, since some is over the truck bed. With either, five feet isn't much difference. A shorter rig gives you more campsite options. Older campgrounds with narrow roads and other obstructions may be difficult for 30+ foot units.

[Second_Chance]

A 3/4-ton truck will not handle "most" fifth wheels. A crew cab diesel with 4WD has an even lower payload rating than a 2WD gasser because of the extra weight in the drive train. With a fifth wheel, it's about payload and not towing capacity. Figure out what you have left for rear axle capacity on the truck (loaded, people, hitch, etc.). Multiply that by four and you'll have the GVWR for a fifth wheel you can comfortably handle.

In my opinion, fifth wheels handle better - especially in high winds. A 33' fifth wheel should actually end up shorter overall than a 28' TT because of the lack of the A-frame on the front (as on a TT) and because a good part of the fifth wheel overhangs the truck.

You don't necessarily need a slider with a 6.5' bed. It depends largely on the pin box placement and the front cap design of the fifth wheel. We pulled our first 12K miles with a 6.5' bed without a slider and did just fine (we used an Andersen Ultimate). Sliders can be extremely heavy and you may not want to give up the extra payload. At less than 50 lbs., the Andersen is a good alternative to consider for a 3/4-ton truck.

Rob

[TazFord]

Hi Jeb. I’m sure I don’t have the experience of others. I’ve pulled a 22ft tow trailer for the last 14 years and just this last Monday bought a 34’ 5th wheel. We so far have only pulled it home approx 120 miles with no problems. The size is noticeable definitely, but I didn’t feel it was overwhelming thankfully. I told my wife that as long as I keep it between the lines we should be ok.