I apologize up front for the length and variety of questions.I will be retiring in December. My plan is to run away from home and see the USA. It will be just me and my 2 dogs. I currently own a 91 Coleman tent trailer. It has done its job well, but I don't need to sleep 6 any more and want better protection when it rains or gets cold. I looked at MH's for a few months, but decided a travel trailer better suits my needs. My tow vehicle is a 2006 Toyota 4Runner with the 5.3L V-8. It's rated to tow 7300 lbs GVWR. I did some research on tow weights and saw recommendations to keep the GVWR at 80%, which would mean 5800 lbs. So I have been looking at small light weight trailers. I'd like to keep the total length around 20' long. I have narrowed my choices down to:A North Trail FX18. It's about 21' overall and has 4900 GVWR. I really like this one because it has a sofa bed slideout. Dual axle. A Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 187. It's about 20' overall and has 3850 GVWR. No slideout. Single axle. I've also seen a Surveyor Cadet SC189 that looks good. Most of my research has been through the brochures. I've gone to dealers and looked at other models in the line that are on the lot, but I get the brochure for the floorplans and construction info. There doesn't appear to be a huge demand for small trailers in So Cal, the land of the toy hauler. So the inventory at various dealers is limited. I don't want to get one with something I don't want (like an overhead bunk- which dealers keep trying to sell me), so I may have to order one from the manufacturer. How does that work out? Just some other topics I'd like to get opinions on:I'd like to keep the 4Runner as TV mainly because it's paid off! I've pulled the Coleman with the hitch that is on there (Toyota says it's weight-distributing), but I'll change the hitch if necessary. Also, I'll need to add the trailer braking system. Good decision? Single axle vs dual axle trailers. The salesmen I have talked to say the dual axle is more stable. I realize if I get a slideout, it will be dual axle. Any other benefits to a dual axle? Since I plan on taking extended trips in it, or maybe even full-timing, I was looking for an upscale/medium (not entry) model line. Are the ones I've mentioned a good medium quality line? Thank you.

I think you made your preference known with the floor plan if you want to eliminate the trailers with an overhead bunk. I would no longer even look at those. I really like a slide, especially if I am going to spend very much time with the unit. Just my personal choice. A few rainy days make a trailer seem to shrink when you are in it a lot. Also I would go dual axle if the trailer weight does not exceed my limitations. Be concerned about tongue weight. A trailer need about 10-15% of it's weight on the tongue to provide a stable pull. Make sure your tow vehicle can handle that much tongue weight of the trailer you select.Buy a good hitch that integrates sway control into the hitch, Equalizer, Reese dual cam, or something like those. In my opinion they are much much better than using the friction sway control bars.Don't rule out a used unit if you find one that has been taken care of. You can save money usually if you buy from an individual. You can get price guides online from nada or kbb websites. These are just a few thoughts, I am sure more suggestions are coming. Good luck on your decision.

I can't help with the trailer. This I caught, you said that Toyota says you have a weight distributing hitch. I venture that you do not. You have a receiver that is heavy enough to make use of a WDH. The WDH is the hitch head component that fits into your receiver. It will consist of the shank,the drop , the hitch ball usually 2 5/16 two bars and chains and the corresponding bracket fitted to the A frame of your trailer. If you look at your receiver there usually will be the statement "Do not exceed X00 lbs/x000 lbs wdh". maybe you know all this, but with the statement you made I would hate to think of you dropping your trailer on a bare ball and thinking you were good

Take your time and find a floor plan that suits you. A slide is nice to have. It does make rainy days seem a lot less claustrophobic. As far a brake controllers go, get yourself a Prodigy P2 or P3. You will be happy with either of these controllers.

IMO, backing a dual axle trailer is WAY easier than backing a single axle trailer. Single axles seem to have a mind of their own sometimes.... We own trailers of both varieties, and I'd honestly rather back the 35' gooseneck flatbed vs. the 10' single axle motorcycle trailer.

You can also start doing some visual shopping on YouTube. One type of trailer model will usually lead you to other trailer models of like sizes, etc.Personally, I'd stick with a dual axle - my reasons might be different than yours, but I feel that they're safer and also probably standard on the trailers that you're already looking at.You might even add Lance to your list of trailers to look at. Lance is a SoCal (Lancaster) company who makes solid, great quality trailers of many sizes.WoodGlue

Single Axle vs Dual Axle | Good Sam Community

14 Replies

KD4UPL
Explorer
Jul 21, 2013
I'd pick the trailer based on lots of other factors beside how many axles it had. Layout, price, quality, storage, etc. would be way ahead of axle count.
However, all else being equal a tandem axle trailer will tow MUCH better than a single axle.
I changed boat trailers a few years ago. The old trailer was a single axle, the new one a tandem. Same truck, same boat, same driver, same roads to the same lake. The tandem axle trailer pulled straighter, rode smoother, and maneuvered easier than the single.
pitch
Explorer II
Jul 21, 2013
With a TT the size the op is considering, any single axle is going to be right at it's operating limits. We all know that Rv manufacturers use the bare minimum that they can get away with.
Dual axle unit would have much better longevity from my point of view.
rfryer
Explorer
Jul 20, 2013
resmas wrote:
rfryer wrote:
I don’t agree the bigger TT is easier to back. But that’s because my camping is mostly in the mountains and national forests and maneuverability is king. The bigger TT is “easier” to back because it’s less sensitive to steering input. In tight quarters you want sensitivity to steering input. With practice you can wiggle in about anywhere so short is “easier” to me.:)

If you compare apples to apples - let's say, a 16' TT with a SINGLE axle to a 16' TT with a dual axle, the dual axle is going to be easier to maneuver, and will still get into the sites in mountain campgrounds. If those campgrounds were only accessible by single-axle trailers, they would have very few campsites occupied.

My husband can wiggle any of our trailers into places he's told are impossible. Including the 43' toyhauler. It does take practice, like you said... But even with the triple-trailer endorsed CDL he has had for 20 years, he still HATES backing our single axle trailer. I can back everything we own, too, I'm just slower. LOTS slower.

I’m not disputing you, resmas, but when I posted I was thinking of boondocking, not campgrounds. Even relatively undeveloped campgrounds have some maneuvering room whereas boondocking you may be trying to wiggle back through some trees. A double axle being easier to maneuver than a single sounds pretty iffy to me but since I’ve never used one I can’t dispute that.

Suffice to say that I find my single very easy to wiggle through tight spots and I probably couldn’t do that with anything bigger. But then I wouldn’t want to back the big rigs your husband does either. You’re right about slow; I move very slowly while barely tweaking the wheel, otherwise I’m forced to pull forward to readjust.
resmas
Explorer
Jul 20, 2013
rfryer wrote:
I don’t agree the bigger TT is easier to back. But that’s because my camping is mostly in the mountains and national forests and maneuverability is king. The bigger TT is “easier” to back because it’s less sensitive to steering input. In tight quarters you want sensitivity to steering input. With practice you can wiggle in about anywhere so short is “easier” to me.:)

If you compare apples to apples - let's say, a 16' TT with a SINGLE axle to a 16' TT with a dual axle, the dual axle is going to be easier to maneuver, and will still get into the sites in mountain campgrounds. If those campgrounds were only accessible by single-axle trailers, they would have very few campsites occupied.

My husband can wiggle any of our trailers into places he's told are impossible. Including the 43' toyhauler. It does take practice, like you said... But even with the triple-trailer endorsed CDL he has had for 20 years, he still HATES backing our single axle trailer. I can back everything we own, too, I'm just slower. LOTS slower.
PAThwacker
Explorer
Jul 20, 2013
Single axle trailers are a nightmare to back up. I practically destroyed the transmission on our trailblazer trying back up a sloped driveway, and turn to swing to the right of the garage. I do it now with full size suv, and have no problems blindly backing up a 25ft trailer around the garage.
Ron3rd
Explorer III
Jul 20, 2013
One of the most common axles found on trailers around 7,000 lbs and smaller is the Dexter 3500 lb axle. On smaller ones, they use 1 axle and on bigger ones they use 2. 2 axles give a better ride IMO and have several advantages including the fact you can drive on 3 tires for a while (don't ask me how I know this).
If you can get a trailer with a slide out to fit your weight limits and budget, I would certainly recommend it. You'll appreciate the extra space. The 4.7 V8 is a great, bulletproof motor btw, had that in my old 2000 Tundra and towed the old trailer in my sig for about 3 years.
rfryer
Explorer
Jul 20, 2013
Single or dual axle, that was probably the first question I asked on the forum. My concern was that a blowout on the single axle might throw the TT out of control. The responses I got didn’t support that, the single axle was fine.

A single axle will be a smaller, lighter TT, which is a plus if you have the small V8. I pull a 16’ 3000# loaded TT with a F150 5.4. But I used to pull it with a full sized Bronco with a 302 V8, a little bigger than the 4.7. It pulled it fine as I remember but I don’t recall how hard it worked on the hills. But I do remember almost running over a MH literally crawling up a curvy, steep grade near Chama, NM. I had to slam on the brakes and came to a complete stop and I thought for sure I was going to blow the transmission trying to get moving again.

The only issue I had with it was occasionally I’d get some minor sway that I immediately tweaked out with the manual controller. It was never a problem but I always had to be conscious of it. When I went to the F150 it was solid as a rock, no hint of sway under any conditions. Rightly or wrongly I attributed it to the longer wheelbase of the F150. I have never used WD or sway control, my TW varies from 300# to 320# depending if I carry full water.

I don’t agree the bigger TT is easier to back. But that’s because my camping is mostly in the mountains and national forests and maneuverability is king. The bigger TT is “easier” to back because it’s less sensitive to steering input. In tight quarters you want sensitivity to steering input. With practice you can wiggle in about anywhere so short is “easier” to me.:)

All RV’s are a compromise and you’ll have to find the balance that suits you. Size is a plus if you want to spend a lot of time in the TT. Size and weight is a negative with a small V8 or if you want to spend a lot of time mountain driving. Good luck in your decision. An afterthought, adding a TT brake controller is a no brainer.
tatest
Explorer II
Jul 20, 2013
Trailer weight will determine whether it has a single axle or dual axles, usually. The cross-over will be in the 3500-4000 GVWR range, because the heaviest axles popularly used for light trailers are rated near 3500. From there they go tandem, can take up to 7500 before a stronger axle is needed.

Weight distributingis not a function of the receiver on your truck, it is a function of the type of hitch you install. Pretty much all Class III and heavier receivers installed on trucks and SUVs are designed to be used with a WD hitch. Class II, maybe, maybe not. They do make low capacity WD hitches with the small shank for a Class Ii, but you need to be sure the receiver you have is rated for what you will tow, weight distribution or not.
crcr
Explorer
Jul 20, 2013
The V8 in that 4Runner is a 4.7L, not 5.3.

We also have a 4.7L V8 4Runner, and tow a 21.5' hard sided TT, GVWR is about 4800 lbs. The model is a Rockwood Mini Lite, 2109S, with a slide - you might google it and see if the floorplan might fit your needs. It tows it adequately, but we have some serious long inclines where we go into the mountains, so with regard to my personal comfort level, I wouldn't care to tow anything any heavier with this rig. To me, the largest factor is how steep and long any inclines you tow on are.

My WDH with sway works well, and I have never gotten any sway whatsoever. I changed out the puny OEM trans cooler and installed a larger one to successfully knock the trans temps down. I use a Scan Guage II to monitor trans temps. I tow in the extreme heat of the SouthWest desert.

Yes, you must have a brake controller to tow a trailer that heavy.

Good luck with your decisions!
WoodGlue
Explorer
Jul 20, 2013
You can also start doing some visual shopping on YouTube. One type of trailer model will usually lead you to other trailer models of like sizes, etc.

Personally, I'd stick with a dual axle - my reasons might be different than yours, but I feel that they're safer and also probably standard on the trailers that you're already looking at.

You might even add Lance to your list of trailers to look at. Lance is a SoCal (Lancaster) company who makes solid, great quality trailers of many sizes.

WoodGlue