Tons of problems! Rv complete shutdown while driving?!

[Fla904]

Heading through North Carolina and my rv completely shut off when I stopped at a exit ramp. It was running fine and then all a sudden it completely shut off. It took me a few minutes to crank it back on and now it's running down the road. Two days ago it took a few seconds to start which has never happened before and when Ideling it was kind of shaky. I went and changed the fuel filter, oil, oil filter, and had all fluid levels checked. The battery's are showing all charged and were also checked as fine during the oil change. The ac quit blowing air out today (hot and cold) nothing comes out of the vents on any setting and then shortly after the rv completely turned off when I stopped at the stop sign and took a while to start back up. What's going on?! I can't afford to break down this far away from home!

[JaxDad]

Sounds more like a dead chassis battery.

At highway speed the alternator is putting our power to run everything. But when you come to a stop the alternator is barely putting out a trickle I'm not keeping up with demand. Hilow things like the HVAC fan headlights brake lights and running lights eat up power.

At highway speed the alternator is putting out power to run everything. But when you come to a stop the alternator is barely putting out a trickle I'm not keeping up with demand. Hilow things like the HVAC fan headlights brake lights and running lights eat up power.

Get the chassis battery load tested ASAP

[westend]

Just occurred to me and thought it might apply: last month my modular V8 stalled at a red light. First engine-anything issue in 180K miles. It also started hard, seeming to miss before it got up and ran. It didn't seem to have a problem after that for a few hundred more miles. Eventually, it spit a fault code and that diagnosed the problem, bad COP (Coil On Plug) on one cylinder. I replaced the coil and engine is ticking like a swiss watch again.

When these coils fail, you can get an intermittent miss and, sometimes, it's so brief that it won't display a fault code. Since it disrupts the engine firing, it will stall the engine (ECM has a nervous breakdown). If you have any further problems, I'd suggest to have the ECM memory read to see if there is a COP in distress.

[Bobbo]

Happened to me once. Driving down the interstate about 2 or 3 years ago. I coasted onto the shoulder and checked EVERYTHING I could. Could find nothing. On a lark, I got back in and tried to start it again. Started right up.

Has never happened again.

[wa8yxm]

Now I do not know if your rig is Gas or Diesel but my comments apply to both so it does not matter.. My daughter had that happen to her in her car (Gas).

Seems she had a common RV problem.

Now.. A non-Joke.. (I will explain) Many RVers have a few screws loose,, And I might add, more than a few loose Nuts in RV's as well.

Why that's not a joke:
The problem was a ground connection,, This is eitehr a screw (loose) or a stud (With a loose nut) It shut her car down HARD. She called me, We called AAA and the local Dealer, I responded faster than AAA, strung triangles (By the way there is a proper way to do those, Get a copy of the Commercical Driver's Manual from your local Driver's License folks.. In Michigan that is SOS, and the book is "What Every Commercial Driver Must Know" It describes proper use of Triangles.. Something dang few Commercial drivers know how to do).

They had to replace the entire wiring harness to fix it.

But it's more likely a loose screw somewhere. GOOD LUCK.

[Valkyriebush]

sch911 wrote:
It really sounds like a fuel issue to me. Vapor lock. Restarts after it cools down a bit. Once up and running will go but stalls when you stop. Seems like a classic case.

Sounds possible on running issue, Ford chassis w/intank fuel pump?

[Fla904]

DSDP Don wrote:
If it happens again before you get home, try and keep track of all the surrounding conditions when it stops....ie...was it hot out, did you just climb a grade, had it been idling, fuel stop, etc. All of these conditions will help to diagnose it the next time. They don't always throw codes. By giving a better picture of what occurred it will be easier to help you.

Also a better description, like a 1998 Ford E350 Econoline Class C with 88000 miles, recent tune up, etc.

Sorry for the lack of detail, I was driving and was stressed. Needed some info ASAP. But it's a '98 ford e-350 6.8 l v-10 class c with 74k miles on it (bought with 58k) I have had no issues what so ever mechanically with it till now so it's pretty disappointing. I was really surprised by the reliability of it thus far, it's been a great power train. Lately it's been rattling and seems like it's having issues left and right. Minor tho, like weather strips and gen problems. The engine is not something I want to have issues with.

[DSDP_Don]

If it happens again before you get home, try and keep track of all the surrounding conditions when it stops....ie...was it hot out, did you just climb a grade, had it been idling, fuel stop, etc. All of these conditions will help to diagnose it the next time. They don't always throw codes. By giving a better picture of what occurred it will be easier to help you.

Also a better description, like a 1998 Ford E350 Econoline Class C with 88000 miles, recent tune up, etc.

[coolmom42]

ddndoug wrote:

Fla904 wrote:
When it shut off the dash lights were still on and the service engine soon and battery light came on. But now it's all off and running fine. Next time I refuel I guess is when I'll find out if it's gonna shut down again. So frustrating, just spent 200 on the recent tune up.

All of those lights coming on can be (and usually are) a product of the engine dying. Without the engine running, the alternator will not charge (the charging light) and the SES light will illuminate.

Please don't throw parts at it until it stops. Let your mechanic diagnose it and fix it properly, it will save you lots of time, money, and headaches. A lot of the Fords have had fuel pumps failures, that's where I would start. Have your mechanic hook up a mechanical fuel gauge and start there. You can do a quick search on here for lots of stories.

Hope this helps.

Doug

This.

[ddndoug]

Fla904 wrote:
When it shut off the dash lights were still on and the service engine soon and battery light came on. But now it's all off and running fine. Next time I refuel I guess is when I'll find out if it's gonna shut down again. So frustrating, just spent 200 on the recent tune up.

All of those lights coming on can be (and usually are) a product of the engine dying. Without the engine running, the alternator will not charge (the charging light) and the SES light will illuminate.

Please don't throw parts at it until it stops. Let your mechanic diagnose it and fix it properly, it will save you lots of time, money, and headaches. A lot of the Fords have had fuel pumps failures, that's where I would start. Have your mechanic hook up a mechanical fuel gauge and start there. You can do a quick search on here for lots of stories.

Hope this helps.

Doug

[Fla904]

westend wrote:
I'd suggest as first measures to throw a bottle of injector or fuel system cleaner in the tank and make sure the air filter isn't clogged.

Does your check engine light remain on when running?

No lights are on when running. Only happened when it shut off. It seems to be running fine now. I have no idea what happened and hoping it doesn't happen again, I will replace a few things when I get home.

[2oldman]

Fla904 wrote:
Going to try and make it to my local mechanic.

Excellent choice. We'll all want to know the fix!

[Harvey51]

My daughter's car stalled at stop signs. It had an EGR valve failure engine code and replacing that valve fixed it. No electrical problems.

I also would try to make it home, provided the alternator is okay. I would be checking the voltage on the battery with engine running. If under 14 volts you aren't going to go very far.

[westend]

I'd suggest as first measures to throw a bottle of injector or fuel system cleaner in the tank and make sure the air filter isn't clogged.

Does your check engine light remain on when running?

[roadjunkie]

Fla904 wrote:
Heading through North Carolina and my rv completely shut off when I stopped at a exit ramp. It was running fine and then all a sudden it completely shut off. It took me a few minutes to crank it back on and now it's running down the road. Two days ago it took a few seconds to start which has never happened before and when Ideling it was kind of shaky. I went and changed the fuel filter, oil, oil filter, and had all fluid levels checked. The battery's are showing all charged and were also checked as fine during the oil change. The ac quit blowing air out today (hot and cold) nothing comes out of the vents on any setting and then shortly after the rv completely turned off when I stopped at the stop sign and took a while to start back up. What's going on?! I can't afford to break down this far away from home!

I just Googled the problem. Check out the following link for details.

Engine shuts off when vehicle stops


Possible causes:
• Malfunctioning transmission
• Low fuel pressure, dirty or defective fuel injectors or broken fuel pump
• Bad oxygen sensor or mass flow sensor
• Loose or corroded wires in wiring harness
• Faulty idle air contact actuator
• Clogged or restricted EGR valve

[Fla904]

Tyler0215 wrote:
I think you need to get to a shop soon. The problem won't get any better the more you drive. When it shuts down do the dash lights, radio etc. also go
of? If you can try to restart as soon as it shuts down you don't have a ground or loose cable. I had a similar problem with a dual fuel tank system. The truck would run fine on the one tank at high speed but would die at idle. Needed a new fuel pump in that tank. Your AC is a completely different problem'

Going to try and make it to my local mechanic. Will know more when I stop for gas if it happens again.